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Rivelin Quarries (Read 4843 times)

grimer

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Rivelin Quarries
October 04, 2009, 09:41:04 pm
Went and climbed here for the first time at t'weakend and had a good time (as good in high winds as Rivelin).

Was surprised how nice it was, albeit I was expecting the esoteric. Stuff that was clean was very clean and on top of that some kind soul has been brushing stuff up.

Anyone here guilty of that, and if so, any beta of good things to do. There was chalk on Feet Neet, which looks great. Has anyone done this? How are the pegs? I presume they are getting old now.

PS, before it is asked, no, I haven't tried or done nor could I ever do Nik's wall. Can that question now be left out of any discussion that may arise concerning Rivelin Quarries?

nik at work

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#1 Re: Rivelin Quarries
October 04, 2009, 09:51:48 pm
As you wish Grimer...



Did you do That's My Lot? :)

Seriously, glad that this quarry is getting some traffic. I still think that for its size it has the highest concentration of high quality E5 and upwards routes of any grit quarry.

Feet Neet does look amazing
Flex is brilliant (and with mats high-highballable I'd think)
The Final Overblah of the blah blah blah is also good.
In fact if anything E5-ish looks clean then get on it, you are (in my experience) unlikely to be disappointed.

grimer

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#2 Re: Rivelin Quarries
October 05, 2009, 10:03:52 am
Yes, did Final Overthrow whicw was one of the nicely-brushed ones. Flex was very clean too (pegs seemed ok) and looks good.

No didn't do TML. Did some other easier stuff on that buttress which was good, especially a desperate little E1 6a boulder problem thing.

nik at work

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#3 Re: Rivelin Quarries
October 05, 2009, 10:23:15 am
Is the tat still in the peg on flex? I seem to remember it was quite a long bit of tat which protected the last hard move to the peg and if it had been cut then there would be one more move before clipping the peg. Does that make any sense?

Dan thought Feet Neet was amazing, I seem to remember him saying it was the best E5 he'd done on quarried grit at one point. He seemed to think the pegs were good, in fact I think he fell on them. Mind you this was all ten odd years ago so perhaps not totally relevant now....

Still happy that things are cleaned (and so apparently been climbed), thanks for sharing the knowledge Grimer. I shall re-double my Rivelin Quarries marketing efforts now...

grimer

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#4 Re: Rivelin Quarries
October 05, 2009, 10:37:32 am
Yeah, and there's obviously somebody else enjoying it too.

Had a look at Flex when getting the gear out of Final Overthrow and there did look to be a very thin move getting to the break (a bit higher and with a slopier landing than Finnal Overthrow). A tat on the peg could be nice, and you could clip it if you were over 40.

Shy Ted

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#5 Re: Rivelin Quarries
October 05, 2009, 11:12:25 am
we cleaned flex and final last week.  all gear is good.  pegs on feet neet are good too. plenty of falls onto both.  quality routes all three of them

highrepute

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#6 Re: Rivelin Quarries
October 05, 2009, 11:16:23 am
found my self without anyone to climb with yesterday so cycled myself down to Rivelin Quarries to have a look around. I too was pleasantly surprised by the quality and cleanliness of some of the routes.

I was even more surprised by the presence of chalk on a number of the routes and now I know how it got there!

TML seemed desperate and the E1 6a just next to it felt hard for 6a to me. In fact of all the routes I tried I throught they felt hard for the grade, maybe because they were a little dirty. Only got to look at Final overthrow, Flex and Feet Neet before it started raining but they looked like great climbs and I can verify the cleanliness of the holds on Flex/Final. And with news of solid pegs I shall definitely be returning.

grimer

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#7 Re: Rivelin Quarries
October 05, 2009, 11:36:51 am
Thanks for cleaning those Ted, good job. Did you do Feet Neet? Is it hard (I think I already know the answer to that).

Snivelin Rivelin had chalk on it too but looked a bit harassed by a tree.

Did the E2 left of Flex. You have to climb a long long way before the first runner.

For anyone who's keen, Final Overthrow is like a not-very-high highball 7a-ish slab to a good peg (and a rock 1) then one more great move to easier ground. Get it while it's hot.

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#8 Re: Rivelin Quarries
October 06, 2009, 07:14:11 pm
Went and climbed here for the first time at t'weakend and had a good time (as good in high winds as Rivelin).
:o Grimer I don't know whether to wad you for singing the praises of Rivelin Quarry, or punter you for the shocking admission of your shocking omission! The main reason I went there was due to the good information in the swanky BM&Beyond guide which I'm sure you had some role in.

I can report that the main E1-2s were all good, also my mate Pylon King was up a couple of weeks ago and popped in through his own choice, he was both impressed with the quality and appalled by the lack of attention and visiting by local climbers (fair point although a lot of local climbers seem a bit spoilt and unimaginative)...

Errr so did you try that thin crimpy boulder problem at the far right of the crag then??

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#9 Re: Rivelin Quarries
October 07, 2009, 05:58:31 pm
Popped down to the quarries today and had a play on Flex - no tat on the peg (although there is tat on the peg on the route to the right).  Cleaned the holds a little more and brushed some of the lichen off the slab, so it's now even cleaner.  Great route, and I'll definitely be back there sometime soon to try and get it done.

grimer

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#10 Re: Rivelin Quarries
October 07, 2009, 06:03:51 pm
The tat on the one to the righe served no porpoise as it merely makes it harder to get a karabiner into the hole, but you do this off good holds.

yorkshirewarcry

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#11 Re: Rivelin Quarries
October 07, 2009, 06:10:28 pm
That tat also looked pretty manky...

I think when I have a go at Flex I'll opt for a few pads beneath and not bother with any tat.  I'll be abbing and brushing it again before an ascent, so a long draw hanging from the peg will do the job nicely  ;)

Playing around on a rope today it seemed the hard move for me was above the peg...

 

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