[Sloper]

Derek you say?

Anyway, I was always of the view that it should be two spaces after a full stop, not one.

[dr crimp]

cheers for the tips.shall put some effort into improving my computer litracy.

[cofe]

good start.

[Sloper]

https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/3366

[dr crimp]

nice one.

[slackline]

(i.e. "I've just typed a period '.', I must hit the space-bar twice once and hold down shift when typing the next character).

Sorry, that's the copy editor in me. 

Too nu-skool for me.


(Personally I use TeX (well a variant called LaTeX) which automagically increases the space above a single space following periods so not something I ever really have to worry about when writing papers).

[mrjonathanr]

Back in the day I did near every E6 at Millstone in 18 months.. I TRed damn near all 1st

But I managed not to trash anything...

Not even your finger-tips? 'Effort!
What did you make of Adam Smith Jon?

[fatdoc]

Adam smiths has some of the best moves on the crag.


Word.

[mrjonathanr]

i was hoping for a tad more although that's encouraging. Did you have much confidence in the gear, I forget what it is exactly.. threaded tats and an old peg? Thanks

[fatdoc]

preplaced wires over the back of the bolt studs.

didnt fall... reckon now with a few pads,  esp one of my airpads  , you could sequentially rip all the gear and come to no harm off the crux... knees at level of top bolt, you turn the arete by way of a slap up to a brick shaped pinch and then balance over. a move never to forget.

the top peg is a swine to clip. I did the route the same week as Mike Lee, he had kindly replaced the tat on the peg for those of us with a less then average height.

BTW, this was in excess of 15 years ago... the bolts may be well well shite by now.

[El Mocho]

See routes cleaned thread pages 2 and 3:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9392.25.html

Pretty sure I replaced the tat on the peg too, don't remember it being much of a stretch to clip so must have either put equally long tat on or climbed a bit higher (I am just like Mike Lee. Short, strong and only do headpointing now as I have a kid  )

[Jaspersharpe]

I am just like Mike Lee

Never thought I'd see anyone admit that in public.

[nik at work]

Dan fell on one of the wired bolt heads when a hold snapped off. It held, this was over 10 years ago though and I'm guessing their condition hasn't improved...

[fatdoc]

I am just like Mike Lee

Never thought I'd see anyone admit that in public.

me too, may i offer my sincere condolences

 (  )

[David S]

is that Mike Lee, the 2004 PBR World Champion, 2004 PBR World Finals Champion , 2005 PBR Challenger Tour Finals Champion bull rider?

http://www.mikeleebullrider.com/


or Mike Lea the strong short climber?

[mrjonathanr]

Thanks for the answers guys particularly your account of the crux Jon. I haven't been to Millstone for something like 10 years hence the questions but it always looked a great route and I vaguely remember the pinch featue and overlap with peg etc. Doesn't sound too practical to just 'have a look' if you need to preplace wires tho.

[fatdoc]

I have a strong feeling we know eachother from a previous life.

Give me a PM and I'll gladly discuss the route further.

To be fair, this ain't our thread

[El Mocho]

I replaced the tat on the bolts so no need to pre place wires. Just clip the tat.

There is a Mike Lee who climbs? Sorry, bull riding is my area of expertise, am I on the wrong website? Thought this was UKbull. Def seems like it when you read some of the posts.

[Jaspersharpe]

That would have been a more appropriate name for the red-tits website.

[Jim]

Thought this was UKbull. Def seems like it when you read some of the posts.

you'll have to forgive sloper

[Idol eyes]

might i add, im also a local born and bred, ill call it wot i chuffin want son

"Theres nothing for you here!!!"

[David S]

There is a Mike Lee who climbs? Sorry, bull riding is my area of expertise, am I on the wrong website? Thought this was UKbull. Def seems like it when you read some of the posts.

 

[Fiend]

personally mr long, (JB) i think ur elitist attidude stinks and u should be more suportive and more accepting of other peoples abilities and enjoyment of climbing. routes are lead/soloed/top roped by choice, with regards to the persons personal goals, motivations and aspirations. who are you too say how i should climb a route? people have different stimuli/ motivations and everybody should respect that. as long as climbers are having fun, surely thats all that matters??

Personally mr Sop, you should be a lot more sodding grateful that someone like Adam is standing up for quality climbing experiences and treating routes with respect (all under the banner of good ethics) and encouraging you to do the same. If you had some nouse you'd try to learn from that and trying to learn to improve so you can approach these climbs as equals rather than trying to work them (and by "them" I mean well-sub-cutting edge routes that are regularly onsighted / ground-upped) into submission. Just seen your UKC logbook - says it all - have you considered actual climbing rather than serial top-roping??

+1 vote for The Log Pile.

[BenF]

Just seen your UKC logbook - says it all - have you considered actual climbing rather than serial top-roping??

Just read this ressurected thread and being a bit bored and feeling like a bit of rubbernecking, I checked out the UKC logbook too.  Oh my god, I have never seen such nonsense.  Sorry if this sounds bad, condescending and like we're getting the boot in, but Tallsop you really need to think about your approach to climbing.  Your logbook shows you failing to onsight low E grades yet constantly attempting to toprope E5/E6/E7/E8.  I honestly thought it was a bit of a myth that there were people out there trying to toprope stuff way, way beyond their capabilities.  A best onsight of E1 and best worked grade of E6?  Nonsense.

Again, apologies for having a dig (and probably sounding like a patronising tw*t) but just as Fiend has pointed out, the advice contained within this thread is very pertinent and I think that if you just chilled out, stopped trying to thrash your way up various testpieces you'd a) become a better climber and b) achieve more.

[slackline]

Just seen your UKC logbook - says it all - have you considered actual climbing rather than serial top-roping??

Just read this ressurected thread and being a bit bored and feeling like a bit of rubbernecking, I checked out the UKC logbook too.  Oh my god, I have never seen such nonsense.  Sorry if this sounds bad, condescending and like we're getting the boot in, but Tallsop you really need to think about your approach to climbing.  Your logbook shows you failing to onsight low E grades yet constantly attempting to toprope E5/E6/E7/E8.  I honestly thought it was a bit of a myth that there were people out there trying to toprope stuff way, way beyond their capabilities.  A best onsight of E1 and best worked grade of E6?  Nonsense.

Again, apologies for having a dig (and probably sounding like a patronising tw*t) but just as Fiend has pointed out, the advice contained within this thread is very pertinent and I think that if you just chilled out, stopped trying to thrash your way up various testpieces you'd a) become a better climber and b) achieve more.

Nefertiti (or spelling variations thereof) aren't in the wishlist either!