[Richie Crouch]

Had a wee play on it today and on my 2nd go got into what I felt was the crux, but not sure if it's the right way of going about it!

Was up with left hand on the sidepull, Left toe on the fairly well used smear above the break and palming down my right hand under my body to get my right foot out across the wall smearing up to get more weight on my left foot so I could have a slap through to the top with RH. Is this a generally well known sequence or should I be trying to make more use of the small mono hole 

I checked the guide and it said you could rock out left to the shoulder, but it was looking a bit green. Excellent problem though and pity I left it till when it was going dark!

[cofe]

keep palming off, bumping your palm up. it eases the higher your feet get.

[Richie Crouch]

Cheers, that's what I was hoping to hear! Was worried it would be some sort of scary rockover on the smear using the sidepull as a RH gaston

[slackline]

Not you and your mates then if you were trying it as it was getting dark?



(Guy in the blue jacket had got higher but wasn't quick enough to catch him on film).

[ferret]

bit nonsense problem this in some ways. easiest way is to swap hands in the press then palm near the arete, everybody ive seen do it palmed so close to the arete that if they closed their fingers theyd be holding the arete. good moves tho i guess but all a bit peak

[Andy F]

Not you and your mates then if you were trying it as it was getting dark?



(Guy in the blue jacket had got higher but wasn't quick enough to catch him on film).

That's them.

[Richie Crouch]

That's not us and it was most definitely getting dark, sadly we were lacking in cameras on the day. We must have rocked up afterwards as there were a group of 4 trying something around the corner to the left and me, Matt and Stu were on the arete and Ben's. It was getting proper freezing in the wind! It was dark when we reached the car across the field!

I wish it was us Andy, as I would love to be the owner of a shiny looking down jacket. Alas my old alpkit one was falling apart as the finger tape fell off it and I leaked feathers all day 

[Andy F]

My mistake as I thought Matt was in blue and Stu in the red.

[dave]

bit nonsense problem this in some ways. easiest way is to swap hands in the press then palm near the arete, everybody ive seen do it palmed so close to the arete that if they closed their fingers theyd be holding the arete. good moves tho i guess but all a bit peak

when i did it, plus others at the time, had right hand nowhere near the arete - it;d be daft to put it so close, plus i'm sure the sweet spot for palming is about 2foot away from it.

[Oli]

That's me in the blue downie. I gave up after 2 goes, as it was fucking freezing in the wind.

[Johnny Brown]

The rock left is much more independent but may be harder. A great move though.

[Jim]

dubbed 'the hardest rockover in the peak'?

[dave]

The rock left is much more independent...

...using exactly the same holds.....

[Johnny Brown]

No. You use a pebble cluster out left for the left hand, and then rock left. Having the right hand on the high gaston means the arete is not in reach, and you are facing and moving away from it. I was a bit disappointed, on doing the 'normal' sequence, to find I had to consciously avoid the arete.

[dave]

you're facing left on the normal sequence anyway. when i was on it the arete may as well have been a mile away, it couldn't have been further from the mind.

[Somebody's Fool]

Palming out, rather than down, was the key to getting my right foot up. As the problem's quality is being cast into doubt, can I add that this is one of my favourite moves on grit.

When bowling over to the top from this position your arm does go out past the arete, but I suppose you can't have it all.

[Big Jim]

For what my beta's worth (being tall), I use a very high left foot on a reasonable smear, then palm with the tips of two fingers in a useful shallow dish - it makes the palm very secure and lets you pull the right foot up to the foothold of your choice.  If you're 5'10" or more this sequence should work well, but not sure how stumpies would find it...

[tallsop]

Ive been trying this recently, ive tried both methods and think that the palming method is totally pointless as the arete is right there, i know id feel dissapointed if i did get it that way so ive stopped and am keeping with the better line, following the scoop. its hard, but if somethings worth doing, its worth doin propper!!!