[Richie Crouch]

I kinda of agree with Adam and saltbeef on the Red's. Me and Sugden managed to get most of them in the session bar the red in the middle of the centre panel. Bit of a weird foot clamp dyno leftwards off the volume (unless that was the previous set, aint been for about 4 weeks).

I did say to Dave to put a training board in when Myself, Stu and Fatneck were putting ideas in to the build of the new bouldering area before it got built. It was ignored as being too niche/elitist and didn't cater for the majority of customers. Good to see that it will now eventually have one... 2 years later to catch up with other walls 

The campus board is good however and massively better than the one in Liverpool (which does however have an ok 45 board and beastmaker).

[saltbeef]

please remove the jugs above the fingerboard. forever i see people hauling themselves upward, elbows screaming, as they shock load their elbows... this can't be good. it also cluttesrs up the campus board . (i'm sure  they aren't standard rung distances!)

[cowboyhat]

please remove the jugs above the fingerboard. forever i see people hauling themselves upward, elbows screaming, as they shock load their elbows... this can't be good. it also cluttesrs up the campus board . (i'm sure  they aren't standard rung distances!)

Oh I love watching punters 'training'. You get some incredible shit pulled on the campus board at the castle.

[galpinos]

(i'm sure  they aren't standard rung distances!)

Do you mean the campus rungs aren't official distances? 

[mrjonathanr]

They're a bit short IIRC but not that much. Might pop down for a snoop around later - will take a tape measure if I do.
Chatting to staff member about a month ago he said quite a bit of easy stuff likely in the new area as well as harder, or some reorganisation of the problems to the same effect: as most of Dave's customers won't be pulling V7 so he's going to be looking to enhance capacity there too, not just give your tyraining routine a leg up! That said he's not oblivious to the harder-climbing market so I'm sure there will be some decent provision for us.
Re grades and problems some staff boulderers are pretty handy and generally seem to set fun problems - grades don't matter really if they're consistent: I just subtract one V grade in most cases.

[galpinos]

They're a bit short IIRC but not that much.

But I'd ticked 1-4-6 on small rungs as Font 7a on my 8a.nu scorecard. Will I have to take it off?

(In the e-mail I sent I said I realised they had to cater to the lower grade climbing masses but having a few beast crushing hard stuff improves the image of the place imo)

[blur]

After having a few uneventful visits...the concept of a new wall/board really does make me want to go back there. 

[Monolith]

The campus board is good however and massively better than the one in Liverpool (which does however have an ok 45 board and beastmaker).

The 45 could be miles miles better. Painting it was the stupidest thing one could do you have to agree crouch? The Beastmaker is also yours. Sad state of affairs that you have to bring in your own property to facilitate a good training session!

I know Dave hasn't had interest in bouldering before or in supplying a training board but the popularity of the sport inevitably means more people will come through the ranks and want something to train on. That group of people already exist and have done for some time (hence we made two of our own boards).Commercially speaking, I can understand that Dave has arguably been right to  direct his focus upon furnishing the means to cater for school groups/youth groups etc but surely 10 years on since it's opening it might finally be time to look at recycling resources or drafting in materials to cater for the growing number of people requiring a proper training facility?

[rginns]

...we're not all fat and climb 5b.

well, some of us are beef! 

[erm, sam]

Nice! I shall have to pop by.
I was not especially impressed with the bouldering at the Manchester Climbing Centre. Was only climbing the super easy stuff, but there was not a lot of bouldering to go at, at any grade it seemed. And acres of board with no holds on it!
Ok for a lunch time session though.

[saltbeef]

dunno what the distances are, but they seem long. ie harder than normal. i did 1 4 7 there for the first time last week, and i was comfortably doing 1 5 7 at the works and getting near 1 5 8 the other week (let the barracking begin!)
anyway i'm looking forward to a steep wall nearby.
and rginns i'm sure that people basically get used to their lowest common deniminator. so if theres a steep wall and you climb on it you're gonna get stronger, cause and effect

[mrjonathanr]

Ahem
I do know what distances the rungs are: large and medium are 23cm/9" spacing and the small rungs are about 22.75cm/87/8"
So I was talking bullocks. Well there's a first time for everything. Rich Simpson on Moonclimbing site recommends 22cm FWIW: I suppose that's the standard.
Re the routesetters, Tom told me tonight he's done an 8a namely Pete's Power Pull there-and-back @Tom's Roof. He didn't say much about which footholds to use though  Good effort in my opinion and this is a passing comment not publicity to be compared with any other climbing wall staff who may/may not have done what their mates have publicised on their behalf. And it isn't reported onred-tits.com so don't go looking for corroboration there 

[saltbeef]

Rung sizes and spacing

An ideal campus board will have a few different sized rungs, spaced at around 22cm apart

[Percy B]

The Works campus board is 'regulation', as in the board is the correct angle and the rungs are spaced at the same distance as the School (RIP).

[mrjonathanr]

And apparently there will be a steep thing, though Dave's not giving out lots of details.

[Ru]

I'd love this new section of wall to be good, as Stockport is now much closer to me than manchester wall. However, the devil is always in the details with these things. A 50 degree board covered in jugs with one token v8 up the middle is not going to change anything.

[andy_e]

Get Hession on the setting. The one token V8 would then be V16.

[Jim]

anyway i'm looking forward to a steep wall nearby.

the garage season will be starting again soon 

[Monolith]

I'm travelling to you Jim until a new decent board turns up in the pool.

[Richie Crouch]

The 45 could be miles miles better. Painting it was the stupidest thing one could do you have to agree crouch? The Beastmaker is also yours. Sad state of affairs that you have to bring in your own property to facilitate a good training session!

To be fair, nobody asked Dave to get one for the centre, I did so of my own accord as to share it with those still on the waiting list or with nowhere to put one at home. Spoke to him today and he said he would be open to getting one in (that isn't my own!)

There will be new developments with a new woodie being constructed as well as a campus board... so I think you should hold on to your thoughts for now and wait to see what emerges 

[andy popp]

I'm travelling to you Jim until a new decent board turns up in the pool.

You're always welcome in Widnes Tom

[Monolith]

There will be new developments with a new woodie being constructed as well as a campus board... so I think you should hold on to your thoughts for now and wait to see what emerges 

I'll retain a firm grasp on my thoughts ricardo and an even firmer grasp on my own fingerboard where I'm not likely to grease off and brain a 4 year old called Chelsea with a mum called Kelsie.

Capiche?

Thanks Andy, that's much appreciated.

[galpinos]

There will be new developments with a new woodie being constructed as well as a campus board... so I think you should hold on to your thoughts for now and wait to see what emerges 

Could you extend your influence over Dave to ensure a fantastic new 45 with wooden holds in Stockport?

[Teaboy]

I'm sure you probably all know this but there is a 45 degree board at Broughton. It may not be perfect but the wall is pretty much self regulated so if anyone wanted to make improvements to it I doubt there'd be anything to stop them.

[robertostallioni]

It may not be perfect but the wall is pretty much self regulated so if anyone wanted to make improvements to it I doubt there'd be anything to stop them.

Mwah Mwah Mwah

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