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Long John's Slab (Read 7742 times)

tommytwotone

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Long John's Slab
September 01, 2009, 09:18:12 pm
Word up bredren...

I've had a very long love affair with the above route, started by watching Johnny Dawes solo it on my first ever day out climbing (not that I realised what I was watching!), and since then I've made numerous tentative steps off the ledge mainly to no avail.

So, over t'weekend I reckon I've got a short man's sequence for the start but I'm bricking it going up for the next crimps. Basically what I'm wanting to know is whether it's all over once you've got those crimps, or is there a bit of climbing still in it to get to the ramp?

Cheers all.


GCW

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#1 Re: Long John's Slab
September 01, 2009, 09:19:34 pm
I seem to remember it was one still pull, then feet were OK so it was fine.




But then I lanked it.

north_country_boy

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#2 Re: Long John's Slab
September 01, 2009, 09:25:53 pm
holds get bigger, moves get easier, as floor gets further away if you get my drift?.... ;)

dave

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#3 Re: Long John's Slab
September 01, 2009, 09:28:36 pm
basically once you've moved off the starting crimps after the ledge you're kinda into 1" edge territory with decent footholds (look out left for feet) till you gain the base of the flake. then its about hard severe to the top - the top itself steepens up worryingly but is OK.

SA Chris

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#4 Re: Long John's Slab
September 01, 2009, 09:55:47 pm
Once you mantel onto the crimps you can stand fine. I had to stand here for about ten minutes while hot aches subsided. Was told it was easier in the cold, and took it too literally.

tommytwotone

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#5 Re: Long John's Slab
September 01, 2009, 09:56:27 pm
Nice one - cheers all.

Next time I'm down I'll hope for a bit of good nick and a lot of MTFU.


dave

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#6 Re: Long John's Slab
September 01, 2009, 10:08:11 pm
i recon an overcast day helps - it can be a fucking suntrap even in winter there.

GCW

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#7 Re: Long John's Slab
September 01, 2009, 10:14:20 pm
I did it without any pads, back in't day.  Certainly focussed my mind on not falling off.  :lol:

tommytwotone

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#8 Re: Long John's Slab
September 01, 2009, 10:32:58 pm
That's what I'm aiming for - I really, really want a decently ethical ascent of this. Ground up, no pads - I've turned down a couple of chances to second this as well as I want to preserve the on-sight(ish).

Obviously I understand that looking for online beta doesn't count when it comes to an onsight  ;)

dave

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#9 Re: Long John's Slab
September 01, 2009, 10:39:56 pm
its pretty close to onsight - for all you know we could be giving you shit beta!

tomtom

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#10 Re: Long John's Slab
September 01, 2009, 11:03:46 pm
basically once you've moved off the starting jugs after the overhang you're kinda into micro crimp territory with shite footholds (look out right for feet) till you gain the base of the slab. then its about E5 to the top - the top itself eases off nicely but isn't OK.

To even things up, I've re-arraged Daves beta (into some Antibeta (tm)) which cancels out any information you may have received, so now its a genuine onsight! 

GCW

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#11 Re: Long John's Slab
September 01, 2009, 11:04:44 pm
Just make sure you take a size 7 Friend to protect the crux traverse.

mrjonathanr

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#12 Re: Long John's Slab
September 01, 2009, 11:38:17 pm
E5? LJS is E3 and correctly graded, just remember grit E3s can be quite serious.
I'd pull up from the left onto the shelf and then reach up to small holds to get toe in pocket and udge up to decent crimps. That's the hardest bit ticked. Keep moving, the crimps become good edges and pretty soon you'll be standing on them. There are no more difficult moves: there are enough holds hidden behind the heather near the top, if you got up the start you can climb the rest.
Just don't have a wobbler. And make it your decision to do the route, not because someone on UKB said you could.

Joepicalli

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#13 Re: Long John's Slab
September 02, 2009, 12:47:06 am
classically LJS was E2 5b scary huh.
 

dave

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#14 Re: Long John's Slab
September 02, 2009, 08:58:37 am
E5? LJS is E3 and correctly graded, just remember grit E3s can be quite serious.

read his post again....

SA Chris

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#15 Re: Long John's Slab
September 02, 2009, 09:06:24 am
Do your effics extend to allowing a traditional spotter? More use on this than a pad IMO.

dave

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#16 Re: Long John's Slab
September 02, 2009, 09:26:53 am
i must admit when I first did this we had some pads but didn't use them, didn't see any point with that "landing". on something like this (ditto stuff like great slab etc) you're better taking the approach that you can not afford to fall off. even if it means standing on the ledge for a half hour getting psyched up.

cofe

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#17 Re: Long John's Slab
September 02, 2009, 09:36:05 am
once saw some euro fall off, bounce off the 'ledge' and tumble backwards. looked a terribly unpleasant experience.

Johnny Brown

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#18 Re: Long John's Slab
September 02, 2009, 09:41:29 am
Did this with Ben and Leo once, all three climbing about 6" behind each other. Leo fell off onto Ben who was mid-crux, knocking him off and landing on him, I was on the ledge and just managed to lean out of the way. So TTT, if you don't fall off, you're better than Leo, if you do, try to arrange a friend to land on.

 

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