[rginns]

font is quality, even if you're crap - I should know! you could bang out a month of climbing sub font 5 circuits if you so wished! enjoy 

[mrjonathanr]

Take a coconut mat for sqeaking boots, it'll save you wearing through the skin on your palms  Couple of quid from the supermarket.

[Dr T]

Now, for a nice 6b tick with no nasty slopers (Roche aux Sabots)....

nice tick.. best problem in the grade I've ever done... possibly one of my favourite problems in the 6th grade all together - warm up on it everytime I'm at Sabot (and then generally go fall of a 5th grade rated slab   )

[Durbs]

So taking all of the above into account, is there any particular area we should aim for?

This 6b at Sabot sounds tempting...

[butterworthtom]

Le prestat at cuvier is amazing, one of the best problems I did in font but it is pretty high, I think it is a 5 or 5+.

I did one called le fissure de la liberte which was probably the best problem I did in font which is a 6b+ and defiantly worth a go which was at Gros Sablons. http://bleau.info/gros/1539.html 

Marie Rose at Curvier is a really good classic 6a
Also surplomb de...? at isatis is really good and 6a
Le Flippeur 6B at 91.1 is good.
There is just so much! It doesn't really matter what people suggest because you will be spoilt for choice when it comes to amazingly high quality problems that you will totally forget what has been suggested!

[steven82]

So taking all of the above into account, is there any particular area we should aim for?

This 6b at Sabot sounds tempting...

Definately got to go Cuvier, i know its polished and fully of dog turds, but its really not that bad and theres some amazing classics and a trip to font would not be complete if you didn't go to cuvier. Dont take a guide book as i found them crap and just run around like a dog with 10 cocks and hump all the rock  it amazing and you will love it.

[granticus]

Le prestat at cuvier is amazing, one of the best problems I did in font but it is pretty high, I think it is a 5 or 5+.

  It's a 3+ crack and is high enough to do yourself a mischieve, fun all the same if you're confident.
There is loads of quality to be had in the 3 to 5 range.  Be confident on oranges, some may seem sketchy but there's almost always another bomber hold within reach, just move those feet up and trust them!

Also surplomb de...? at isatis is really good and 6a

Coquille??  That's 6c mind..?

I beg to differ.....Get yourself a guide, a map and visit as many areas as you can, if you like peace and quiet find somewhere with a long walk in eg. Gros Sablons or Rocher Fin  Or one of the outlying areas.. eg.  Charmarande or Petit Bois... The further away from the road you get the quieter/less polished things will get. 

Wherever you go, you are guaranteed to be like a child in a sweetshop and you will almost certainly waste yourself on day one...  Word is to pick/choose wisely and make sure you don't over do it.  Unfortunately whatever you're told in this respect will leave your brain as soon as you step foot in the forest.  Enjoy... Roll on October...

[erm, sam]

Just a thought, but if you are a Font newb and looking for stuff 3-5 ish you could do a lot worse than the Jingo Wobbly cicuits guide. Everybody else hates it, but if you ignore all shitty icons the text gives a pretty good description of each area. Makes it easy to see what spots are flat, good for picnicing, kids or beginners etc..

[butterworthtom]

I thought the le prestat was the one on the same block round the corner from that, turns out it is called La Paillon directe, but either way it is very good problem, 4+ apparently http://bleau.info/cuvier/1949.html

This is the one at isatis I was thinking of: http://bleau.info/isatis/3021.html

[Durbs]

 

Holy crap - Font is amazing.

Not only first time to Font, but first time properly outdoor bouldering. What an education, and so much fun.

Also, Font kicks (my) ass - but it does it in a very fun way... Working a problem, send it, find out it's a 4+. Awesome :D

Itinary was thus
Day 1: 95.2
Day 2: Apremont
Morning 3: Sabots

Didn't really have any plans, just jumped on fun looking problems, mostly yellows, blues and reds - started working the blue circuit at Sabots which was really good fun, such a huge variety of styles in one place, incroyable!

We even met a genuine arrogant native bleausard - pushing in front of us whilst pysching up for a climb (as in literally pre-climb stretch and chalk-up, whilst standing on the pad in front of problem), who then shot up it, and then doled out lots of (un-asked for) advice and showing us 3 different ways of climbing the problem without actually letting us get on it, then saying it was a lack of "concentration" as to why we couldn't climb it, not (as I suspect) the fact we're still relative newbies and looking at the problem for the first time, as opposed to the 20th time as he'd obvioulsy climbed each problem countless times before. Something to laugh about anyway.

Think might head back in September for a week...

But bugger me, it's cold there at night.

Cheers for the advice - it was everything we could've hoped for and more :D

Je suis definitely hooked.

[teghead123]

As everyone else has already said, Font is awesome for all grades, although very very polished, with dried pof being a real problem on lower grade stuff, however its such a massive area and full of everything, im sure you'll have an awesome trip!we did, and we had people in the group climbing for the first time, and some of us climbing V7/8<

Enjoy

[teghead123]

ooops, just realised you,ve already been haha, wot a plank i am, should maybe read all the post next time