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Nice Jim Holloway article in US Climbing (Read 11571 times)

Houdini

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Can anyone rustle up a photograph of Meathook?


You're the man Blunk.  Dude, this problem is a non-entity in these shores.  Generate a little interest with a photo will you?

r-man

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Paul Robinson on Meathook

Quote from: Jamie Emerson
Paul was psyched to give Meathook some effort. We headed up there and tried for a solid 45 minutes. Unfortunately, the quality of this problem is so poor it was very hard to stay motivated. It is certainly hard, but I think a tall climber would have a considerable advantage. It is exceptionally uncomfortable to climb on and I don’t imagine going back. I think the contrived nature (the dihedral being off), the poor rock quality and the awkward movement will keep this one unrepeated for a while. I heard one climber say “Worst problem ever.”

http://www.b3bouldering.com/?s=meathook

r-man

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Bubba

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Quote from: Jamie Emerson
Paul was psyched to give Meathook some effort. We headed up there and tried for a solid 45 minutes. Unfortunately, the quality of this problem is so poor it was very hard to stay motivated. It is certainly hard, but I think a tall climber would have a considerable advantage. It is exceptionally uncomfortable to climb on and I don’t imagine going back. I think the contrived nature (the dihedral being off), the poor rock quality and the awkward movement will keep this one unrepeated for a while. I heard one climber say “Worst problem ever.”

Hmmmm. I suspect their interest in this problem was down to it's reputation for being hard and done way back when. Why whinge about the quality? I don't recall anyone ever saying it was a classic. Sour grapes.

a dense loner

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why whinge about the quality? are you being serious? not everyone wants to climb a shit line. we can't all be called greg or pantontino ;D
there's nothing wrong with what they've wrote in my book. i don't think it's sour grapes not to be inspired by something, and letting people know how they felt

Pantontino

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So that'll be a different Dense that I saw hanging round the Ormes all those times earlier this year? ;)

You only pretend to like all those twinkle toes grit problems just to keep Johnny Brown from sending you to Coventry.

(As I said in that news item: the NW limestone is in perfect condition at the moment. If you listen carefully you can hear those slopers squeeking - oh yes!)

Johnny Brown

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Quote from: 'the enlightened chuffer'
He looks really fit and seems really motivated to do it, so everybody look the fuck out.

Is he going to Japan?

dave

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the day the world changed yeah.

Houdini

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Meathook does look poor...  But no-one ever said Hubble is pretty.

Blunk

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It's all in the perspective I guess, the moves are completely unlike anything else I've ever seen so it's a great puzzle. Holding a fingertip undercling behind the head on a steep wall...juicy!

Fatboy Slimfast, you've seen this thing, what's your take on it?

fatboySlimfast

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Quote
Fatboy Slimfast, you've seen this thing, what's your take on it?
Hmmm, the eliminator block is an incredible boulder, historical, classic lines and great rock with a nice aspect.........the problem looks quite unlike anything else i have seen (not that i can climb them bit i have looked at plenty!) but if i could move on it i would try it, it looked pretty good to me. its no karma say to look at with regard to looks but there again its no Minus ten/pinches wall/rubicon/parisellas/calvaire/sissy crag etc etc etc. all places i have climbed at which are pretty shit to look at but plenty of people climb on them........
if you dont like the moves on a problem does it make it shit?


a dense loner

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couple this with "poor rock quality"and "uncomfortable to climb on" and the answer would almost certainly be yes. not to mention the sentence that starts with "unfortunately".
i've never seen the problem and have no take on it, but these guys obviously thought it wasn't worth their time and effort, for whatever reason you wish to insert. knowing paul robinsons background i have already eliminated the "hardness" factor

Jaspersharpe

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the moves are completely unlike anything else I've ever seen.......... Holding a fingertip undercling behind the head on a steep wall...




 ;)

a dense loner

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how can something so shit be so inspiring? i take back everything i've said. robinson and the other dude couldn't see that beauty is only skin deep

Monolith

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If my memory serves me correct, Gaskins didn't actually climb Shallow Groove with the fingertip undercling sequence. So although it looks mightily impressive, it's factually incorrect. ;)

dave

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I did a problem on my cellar involcing going into a fingertip overhead undercut. replace the words "fingertip overhead undercut" with the words "backhand jug".

r-man

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« Last Edit: December 14, 2007, 05:31:51 pm by r-man »

 

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