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Ceuse and Tarn route recommendations (Read 2163 times)

Marky

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Ceuse and Tarn route recommendations
July 21, 2009, 06:42:18 pm
Off to Ceuse and Tarn for 2 and 1/2 weeks and after some route recommendations and beta. I have done a lot of the classics at Ceuse such as Mirage, Tenere, Vagabond, Blanche Fesses,Super Mickey but has anyone experience of Les Colonettes on Biography or Association Malfaiters and La Tome De Savoie on cascade? Other suggestions up to 8a would be welcome especially soft ones that I could get in a day or two?

Adam Lincoln

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Les Colonettes - Great route apart from aid start. Don't really think it adds much to free it. Maybe just 8a free.

Marky

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Cheers Adam did you do the start free? Where is the crux on the original is it ehere the tufa ends?

Adam Lincoln

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I did the start, then got to a wet bit on tuffa and couldn't work round it. Pulled on a draw to get past then went to the top. Yep, crux probably is where tuffa runs out for the 7c+ version.

Bonjoy

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I did it with the free start, like Adam says it’s not too bad, nothing for a brit used to pulling on dirty edges at home. The top is the real crux, I remember having to go left then up then back right. The obvious sequence involves pulling on a really small pocket but can be avoided with some cross through shenanigans. If you use your knees efficiently on the tufa bit you shouldn’t be too pumped at the crux.

BB

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Tresor Du Zebre - Classic 7a in the tarn.

Doylo

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like bonjoy says all brits should try colonnetes from the deck.maybe font 7a pulling.and then you get 8a for your troubles.association on cascade i wouldnt bother with unless you ve done all the others.seems like a frustrating one cos it crosses other routes meaning your screwed if someones on one of them.

TMR

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#7 Re: Ceuse and Tarn route recommendations
August 12, 2009, 01:55:28 pm
France - Ecosse at the Grand Toit in the tarn 7a

 

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