[ccurling]

Hi,
I went up to the peaks yesterday in hideous conditions in the morning i had a go on gorilla warfare... i started on the far left hand arete.. traversed alond the slopers.. past the crack (didn't use the crack).. into the juggy flake.. then up to the slopers.. along the edges to the next slopers.. then over the top to soaking wet edges.. (where i fell off ) gutted... it should go in the dry i hope.. i got the edges a couple of times!... BUT THEN.. i get home and look on youtube and there is a video of a guy starting from the juggy flake... have i done a completely different problem?
Thanks for your help.. the first moves were cool as well.. and seems a logical ish start.. but then looking at the juggy flake now, that also looks like a more sensible option!
 

[butters]

Starting from the flake is accepted as the norm - it can be done starting at the left hand arete but it just adds a few shit moves to the problem apparently.

[ccurling]

thanks.. figured as much.. i quite liked the moves.. makes it a bit more sustained all the way thru tho!

[dave]

the standard way is start on the flake and end on the top. if you're starting way over left for extra credit it makes most sense then done as the full original way, which is continuing to the right arete as for extended warefare, keep going past the diagonal crack on the right face of the boulder and finishing on/up the right arete.

[cofe]

it's traditional/logical now to start from the bottom of the juggy flake and finish where it sounds like you did.

Original Warfare traversed the top of the block, down the crack, along GW but continued around the arete and across the RH face to roll onto the slabby front face. Bout 7a+ and reet good.

Edit: what they said.

[lagerstarfish]

look on youtube and there is a video of a guy starting from the juggy flake...

Is it that video featuring a very handsome chap with a mature hairline?

[highrepute]

while this thread is up and started I'll ask a question I've long wanted to know.

Is GW a sit start? or is it acceptable to do a sort of squat thingy? more to the point does anyone care?

[webbo]

i think you may have answered your own question there.

[ccurling]

I recognise the name now.. yeah that was the one... can i mention rather tall as well... i wish i was that tall.. i watch a lot of ur posts on youtube, go and try them and climbing these probs at 5 foot 2.5" never seems to go as smoothly! 

[robertostallioni]

look on youtube and there is a video of a guy starting from the juggy flake...

Is it that video featuring a very handsome chap with a mature hairline?

Is this a different Vid to the one of that fat bald bloke? 

[fatdoc]

Hi,
I went up to the peaks yesterday in hideous conditions in the morning i had a go on gorilla warfare... i started on the far left hand arete.. traversed alond the slopers.. past the crack (didn't use the crack).. into the juggy flake.. then up to the slopers.. along the edges to the next slopers.. then over the top to soaking wet edges.. (where i fell off ) gutted... it should go in the dry i hope.. i got the edges a couple of times!... BUT THEN.. i get home and look on youtube and there is a video of a guy starting from the juggy flake... have i done a completely different problem?
Thanks for your help.. the first moves were cool as well.. and seems a logical ish start.. but then looking at the juggy flake now, that also looks like a more sensible option!
 

it's the Peak.

not the peaks...

squat start.

go for it.. an awesome problem.

[ccurling]

it's the Peak.

Sorry... 

go for it.. an awesome problem.

Thank you.. I will as soon as I get back up there on a dry day if that ever happens!!

[Jaspersharpe]

.. an awesome problem.