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Sardinia 7a info (Read 2012 times)

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Sardinia 7a info
August 19, 2009, 10:33:58 am
I'm off to Sardinia with the missus in 2 weeks and was wondering if anyone who's been before can recommend some good 7as (routes) to seek out. 7a is our top end so we'd be looking to work them.

I prefer crimpy, delicate wall-type stuff, but her ladyship likes juggy, overhanging endurance fests, so I'd appreciate a couple of recommendation in each style.

We're staying in ogliastra and will hav a car by the way.

Ta

nash1

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#1 Re: Sardinia 7a info
August 19, 2009, 01:28:12 pm
I would recommend a trip up to Dorgali, this is a great crag up to 7a, not majorly impressive but nice enough, try Overland (ok so it is 7a+, but soft and sounds like it would be one for the missus and not you).
Cala Gonone and Cala Luna are musts. There is loads there. A day at Cala Luna is amazing. Short and intense routes in paradise. The other must is Millenium Cave just outside Cala Gonone, a couple of cracking 7a's in there in a stunning venue, tricky to find, use the new guide you can buy in Cala Gonone.

The best 7a we did was actually in Cala Fuilli, called Capucetto Rosso. Slightly overhanging, juggy and delicate at times, it'll suit you both. Nice little gorge that place.
Have fun!

PeterH

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#2 Re: Sardinia 7a info
August 26, 2009, 12:42:42 pm
From Ogliastra to Dorgali is 1:15, Cala Luna and Millenium (a recent article in Pareti said, "We went in June, it was really slippery") are really places for climbing in the winter. I've been climbing this week with a guy who came to Ogliastra from Cala Gonone to find good climbing conditions, in 2 weeks time the same will probably apply.

In Ogliastra itself:- "I prefer crimpy, delicate wall-type stuff, but her ladyship likes juggy, overhanging endurance fests, so I'd appreciate a couple of recommendation in each style."

You could both climb very well in the afternoons at Villaggio Gallico and next door Creuza de Ma, for the missus how about Marinella at Creuza a soft 7a, I'm doing this in the photos http://www.peteranne.it/album/Climbing/2.%20New%20Ogliastra%20climbing%20areas/Baunei%20crags/index.html

You should seek out if it's hot the high shady crags:-

Jerzu Palazzo,  See cover of current http://www.sardiniaclimb.com There there's a whole new sector.

Su Telargiu Oro cave (two *** 7a's one for each of you) photo http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=122798 and http://www.peteranne.it/album/Climbing/6.%20Su%20Telargiu%20Oro%20Cave%20(Co%20%27e%20Serra)/slides/l3.%20Robert%20Caccia%20al%20Grottone,%20Ula%20CPLL,%20Grottone%20Su%20Telargiu%20Oro,%20Easter%202009.html

Serra Oseli - the Yin cave and the Yang slab, we're going there tomorrow, photos at http://www.peteranne.it/album/Climbing/2.%20New%20Ogliastra%20climbing%20areas/Serra%20Oseli%20&%20Genna%20Croce,%20July/index.html

Genna Croce - fine wall climbing, at 1100m

I can give you all the info when you arrive. For other folk thinking of coming to Ogliastra and/or wanting a change from Cala Gonone especially for the summer, email me at www.peteranne.it Peter

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#3 Re: Sardinia 7a info
August 26, 2009, 03:54:28 pm
Thanks Peter. I was going to wait and ask you first hand  ;D

In the meantime, I was interested in what others had to say.

PeterH

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#4 Re: Sardinia 7a info
August 27, 2009, 07:02:53 pm
I guessed it must have been you, there's more info when you arrive and the test to see if you've taken it all in  ;) ;)

Looking forward to it, cheers Peter

 

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