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WCJ Central Buttress routes (Read 9602 times)

Bonjoy

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#25 Re: WCJ Central Buttress routes
August 22, 2009, 10:54:46 am
Noticed when I got home that the Rockfax says Knuckle Knocker has lost a block on the bottom roof, it only gives it one star, upgrades it to E3 and gives it a crumbly symbol. Sounds a bit more like our experience than three star E2 and explains why I didn't remember the route being gnarly from previous ascent.

Joepicalli

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#26 Re: WCJ Central Buttress routes
August 23, 2009, 09:17:47 pm
Down today; and and the sun combined with early onset alzheimer's and the acid seb put in the coffee lead me to believe there was a peg, below the bolt last time I was there. There wasn't, so what what cream said.
Went back on it today-Top rope. 7b+/ Bottom end 7c. Lovely climbing. Hope to lead towards the back end of next week with faggoty right gear on rack.

Neil F

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#27 Re: WCJ Central Buttress routes
August 23, 2009, 10:41:05 pm
with faggoty right gear on rack.


...which is....?!

(Yes, I've no shame)

Neil

Joepicalli

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#28 Re: WCJ Central Buttress routes
August 30, 2009, 08:53:10 pm
with faggoty right gear on rack.


...which is....?!

(Yes, I've no shame)

Neil
I'll pm the skinny to you.

Bonjoy

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#29 Re: WCJ Central Buttress routes
September 07, 2009, 11:44:28 am
Noticed on UKC logbooks that Seb G has beat me to climbing the line between St Paul and Behemoth. Had spotted and abbed this line a few weeks back but never got round to trying. Good effort to that man anyway. Maybe a two star 7c (called Paulliac) will entice a few more visitors to the crag. Anyone know if it's fully bolted or a trad/sport hybrid?

Neil F

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#30 Re: WCJ Central Buttress routes
September 07, 2009, 12:05:38 pm
It's fully bolted

Joepicalli

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#31 Re: WCJ Central Buttress routes
September 07, 2009, 12:20:59 pm
Have you been down over the WE what's it like? Dry?

mrjonathanr

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#32 Re: WCJ Central Buttress routes
September 07, 2009, 04:45:58 pm
I'll be out Weds if you want to meet up at C Buttress Joe.
Francesca won't be joining us however: she says she prefers the grit  ;)

Joepicalli

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#33 Re: WCJ Central Buttress routes
September 07, 2009, 05:18:49 pm
I'll be out Weds if you want to meet up at C Buttress Joe.
Francesca won't be joining us however: she says she prefers the grit  ;)
Seb and I will be down there so see you there. And grit is a wise choice of preferred rock for the short, she's obviously got her mother's smarts.

Neil F

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#34 Re: WCJ Central Buttress routes
September 11, 2009, 05:26:59 pm
Joe

I retrieved my static belay rope from Behemoth last night.  Keith has Seb's screwgate, if you could let him know.

Cheers

Neil

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#35 Re: WCJ Central Buttress routes
September 11, 2009, 07:05:51 pm
Will do Neil.
And while I'm on just a bit of a warnig with regard to the ghilly, he spotted Seb and I wadding the weir and stared having a go about us eroading it. As far as I know it it is an established crossing point and it is mentioned in the guides as being such but do we know its exact status?

shark

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#36 Re: WCJ Central Buttress routes
September 11, 2009, 09:09:23 pm
he spotted Seb and I wadding the weir

How many wad points did it get ?

mrjonathanr

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#37 Re: WCJ Central Buttress routes
September 13, 2009, 06:45:38 pm

 

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