[dave]

don't know whats more impressive - the earl flashing powerband, or the fact its still dry!

[Bubba]

Is Blazing 48s that thing at Burbage West ?

[dave]

yeah, left of westworld

i'd love t do a problem there and call it Westwood.

[squeek]

Quick question to you guys in the know:

Using Mr Smith as an example as he's just done Monk's life and the ace, these are V13/14, or 8b/8b+.   Now when I'm boldering the things that take me a while aren't that much above what I can flash, say 2 V-grades.  So, what I was wondering is, if Malc is climbing V13/14 what grade will he consistently be flashing.  
The news report has walk on by, blazing 48s, will these have been compartivaly easy for him?  
Or will they still have taken quite a lot of work and attempts?

[dave]

in the past malc has flashed 8a/V11 on grit. i think that fits with your thing except Monk's life but thats a 10year project so you can expect it to be harder.

as for WOB and B48s, i dare say they might not have been that hard for him (and i would wager he'd tried them before from living in sheff previously) but then again they are very technical so he'd have had to use his feet, and he's wearing scarpas, so draw your own conclusions!

[a dense loner]

blazin 48s n walk on by are very technical?  :? i think not, none of them are technical at all. i'll admit they are technical if u can't crimp like a rat, which malc obviously can. he would have done both very quickly n they would have been nothing to him. would have liked to have seen him do 48s tho. :

[Jim]

Is B48's that thing that is described in cockfax

scratch desperatly up the faint pock marks

?
If it is then fair does, have you tried pullin on them (I wouldn't really call them) holds.
Don't recon its technical, just need to crimp like a mofo, but then again what do I know

[a dense loner]

one finger crimpin on two shite holds. this is where its at. unfortunately not for me.

[Adam Lincoln]

Have a peek over on Scottishclimbs.com

Check the post in the forum

[Bubba]

http://scottishclimbs.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1008

So, the Scottish 8c doesn't exist (yet) -  it's all the fault of whoever sent this news to 8a.nu  :D

[Adam Lincoln]

http://scottishclimbs.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1008

So, the Scottish 8c doesn't exist (yet) -  it's all the fault of whoever sent this news to 8a.nu  :D

:roll:

[Bubba]

Actually, reading Si's post again, I can see why 8a.nu were confused:

"Sure it was on my 8a.nu boulders as a 'project'"

And though he has done it, he's loathe to give it 8c coz he's not done any others.....

[dave]

what the feck is he doing with "projects" on 8a.nu anyway?

[sgurr]

Guys, looking at the post on Scottish Climbs and reading through it i think he is just unhappy at the news being 'pushed' forward before he was ready to submit it. If you look he says its 8c without the finish moves anyways, but knowing Si he wanted the last moves before making it news. Lots of us new there was something hard in the pipeline...Extradtion was an 8b bloc with potential to be climbed above & through the overhang, so he was working it into the 8a section finish {highball} and fell. But the grade still stands as he reckons and Ive known him to be a hard-grader {something which is confirmed more as time goes on & repeats are made} Think about it...do all boulders finish at the top?...do all SS problems? I think its upto the ascenscionist to decide...the media unfortunatley decided for Si it seems!! :evil: and i think its a case of yes...a projected grade has been put forward, but SI would have wanted to do the last moves before it happened  :?  :? shame...fookin media machine.

Sgurr

[Bubba]

Fair points, but as has been said elsewhere, if he didn't want it publicised, then 8a.nu was a bad place to mention it !!

[Stu Littlefair]

Am I reading that email wrong - because it seems to me that Si fell off the problem, but felt like he'd done 8cs worth of climbing anyway. Now as he hasn't actually claimed the problem, fair enough. But surely it's just wrong to say that font 8c has arrived in scotland.

Say I fell off the third move of superman. I couldn't claim an 8a tick now, could I?

[dave]

thats hexactly what i was thinking - i got 8 inch off a 8a dyno in font, can i claim 7c?

seems a but stupid to put a project on 8a.nu anyway, afterall, 8a.nu is for logginh things you've done. if we're starting putting things on we've not done, than i'll start putting, brad pit, careless torque, kaizen, pool of bethesda, 8ball and hubble on mine.

[Stu Littlefair]

Too true. At least it was all a genuine mistake, and we can all hold hands and smile about it. I hope Si tops his problem out soon.

Now, who's going to explain to the 8a boys....
 :wink:

[sgurr]

lol Dave...a trifle sarcastic?    Si dinnae ever strike me as tryna claim things by missing a last move....hes one of these 'gotta get to the top' heads. but lol...yeah i guess you could go claiming 7c by missing the last move on an 8a but it might look a wee bit daft  :wink:  Hell...i hope he sends the last 2 moves, if just for his own mind. Also Fred Nicole has apparently repeated it already according to this site (see link below)... and some other guy reckons its 8b+. what utter bollocks  :!:

http://www.zebloc.com/ARTICLES/8ctable.html

[Bubba]

Also Fred Nicole has apparently repeated it already according to this site (see link below)... and some other guy reckons its 8b+. what utter bollocks  :!:

Fuck me, he gets about a bit that Fred, don't he?  :D

[Greg C]

Thought we better have Si`s actual report on here to refer to...

We asked Si O'Conor to tell us about , 8C: "Ah! Extradition. It was crazy to do and took about two years of visits. Not far for me because I live on the same island but it's not a problem you can constantly be on. If not because of technical difficulty, because of the nature of the rock...I don't know if you
have ever climbed on Gabbro? It's like climbing on razors, after one or two hours your hands bleed! It also feels harder than any 8B+ or 8B I have done. The movement is extremely hard and often footless because of the overhanging face
{70 degrees or so) which Extradition takes. When I first looked at it I didn't know if it was climbable. At first there seems to be no holds except a few sloping crimps near the base {terrible finger tip edges}. Then I managed a bottom 8B section as a bloc but still believed I could take it further. At this point Extradition was solid Font 8B. The 8B moves at the base section leads directly into a few 8B+ moves above and a micro horizontal break, almost to small for the fingertips. Here you are swinging wildly, trying to stay on (and often not!!} dynamically fighting into the 8A finishing section above. It is like 3 seperate problems on top of eachother with no rest from crux sequences. I missed the last moves on the top section, the last 2 or 3 moves, but this aside, I still believe it is harder than 8B+ without these. It's probably my own obsessive 'get to the top' mentality that makes me feel it's incomplete, but then, not everything has to finish at the top, and not all bloc problems do. I will go back when I repair my shoulder and wrist and I am positive I will latch the last moves, just for my own mind.
For now Extradition stands at Font 8C, and I think even with topping out will not be any harder or easier and will not change in grade. The effort and contortion involved in Extradition is immense, but it is all natural. I was nearly tempted to chip a tiny edge to link one section into a far away monotip but resisted!(Chipping is something I never do) The bloc of Extradition itself is 8mtrs high, and situated at 1800ft in the snowline of the Cullin mountains.
It stands amongst a heap of terrifying crevassed talus surrounded by soaring dark walls. I think bouldering will be taken into the mountains soon, it seems like a natural progression from crowded over used circuits and the potential is astounding! As for my feelings about Extradition?...3 stars for many reasons." Taken from Si O`Connor - 8a.nu

[sgurr]

Fook...makes me tired and pumped just reading that  :shock:  lol last time we saw Si was near the Coire, injured and doing an arete with his left arm. I tried it and failed, even with the use of aid, wall suckers and a pogo stick  

Interesting comment at the end of that 8a.nu interview though. What do you all think, is Si doing that 'ahead of his time' thing again that DaveMacLeod mentioned, by taking pure bouldering into the mountains? away from the overcrowded cicuits?
 James Sutton was with him a lot bouldering in the Coire this year along with a few other locals. Si wouldnt climb much below a Font 7a and kept blethering on about the 'blocs up high', so we went. omg! most of his project lines are like 40ft and/or overhanging crimpy desperations from hell with terrifying deckouts into 10ft deep crevasses  :shock: and Si doesnt even bother with a mat most the time
Theres some truly mental boulders there lads  :wink: and the lower circuits are well known locally. Guess Si is like Cubby in many respectsand likes to boulder in peace. This year it was like 'hunt the madman', seeking out chalk trails all over the Coire, sometimes catching up with him, sometimes not. Twas great fun, and good to see a skilled artist makin us look like floundering fish  

[sgurr]

IN FACT! one of the lads commented in the Tallisker bar that Si should be handicapped in bouldering meets and made to wear greased wellies when bouldering. At least when the girls go by  

[Bubba]

Don't think he's being "ahead of his time", it sounds like as you say, he just likes to boulder in peace and presumably, find quality unclimbed lines, which these days are mainly off the beaten track.

[sgurr]

Aye Bubba  :wink: ...not so many road-side boulders here. Bet thats why the Peak boys wont get to repeat Extradition, being unable to sit-start it from the boot of the car