[dave]

aye but dunne went everywhere in the UK and did some of the hardest routes, and in many cases added his own!

i think what greg is getting at is if you've only done a couple of hard problems which are not your own, and the grades for them are not yet consensused, and the rest of your hard problems are your own FA,s then the margin for error on grading is huge. on the flip side of the coin if you live and climb in font all your life then when you put up an 8a its got a better than average chance of staying at 8a.

but as i said before the place where si's thing is may never attract the kind of attention ofrom the key playaz that is required to get repeats, so it could be graded whatever.

[Greg C]

Hi gang!
Look, as I said on rock talk I`m not looking to knock people for the sake of it, but it seems that every time Si says something about a problem venue etc. He shoots himself down. Why for instance would you compare a problem of V15 to a problem you originally gave V11 (which has had its grade confirmed). Surelly a better comparison would be to that new 8b in Skye, which he said on scottishclimbs was the hardest thing he had ever done! The beef I have with Si is the inconsistancy, and contrary to what the knob heads on cocktalk would say it does matter!
BAHH!!

Greg

[Bubba]

Well yeah, I can't see your average 8c boulderer (if there is such a thing) wanting to combine the Cuillin Ridge with trying this new problem so maybe it'll never get the attention that it requires but I kind of like this sort of thing because it might get people off there arses to go somewhere outside the norm for a change...

[Paz]

Yeah, I believe now Ken's routes are known for feeling quite harshly graded.  

If your average 8c boulderer went to Skye to do Si's problem, The Cuillin ridge and this (as yet unrepeated) local classic test piece:



and came back with some Talisker, then that would be a worthwhile trip.

[Bubba]

Yeah, I believe now Ken's routes are known for feeling quite harshly graded.  

Precisely.....

If your average 8c boulderer went to Skye to do Si's problem, The Cuillin ridge and this (as yet unrepeated) local classic test piece:

OMG  :shock:  
What is that pile?

[dave]

looks like paz's finest hour - onsight new routing.

[Bubba]

Anyway, I don't want this ending up like the sister topic on CT, so let's just leave it until sombody proves otherwise. None of us here really have any idea how hard this problem is, so all speculation is merely that, esepecially since none of us even know the crag!

Hopefully Si will see this (he's got a logon on this board) and will let us know why he felt this problem to be worthy of 8c.

[squeek]

Hopefully, he'll post a pic or two, of the problem, area as well.  Is there loads of bouldering potential around there?

[Bubba]

No idea - somebody has started a thread on ScottishClimbs so hopefully we'll get more local knowledge on that board. I know Dave MacLeod posts there and I believe he was with Si when the problem was done.

http://www.scottishclimbs.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1003

[AndyR]

OMG  :shock:  
What is that pile?

Curiously, it looks like an outcrop outside Elgol I remember taking u/grads to to look at sed. structures - is that where it is? If so, I'm very sad for remembering that

[Paz]

Spot on.

[dave]

I suppose there is The Ace as well - or am I wrong?

I hear Malc did this yesterday.

[Adam Lincoln]

I suppose there is The Ace as well - or am I wrong?

I hear Malc did this yesterday.

He should have! He has slapped the top enough times

[squeek]

That's what I heard yesterday too, well over-heard,  at the good ol' boulder UK.

[chris]

so has malc done the ace or not??

anyone else near it apart from ryan pasquil, who i heard is out for some time with a fu**ed up back.

[Adam Lincoln]

so has malc done the ace or not??

anyone else near it apart from ryan pasquil, who i heard is out for some time with a fu**ed up back.

He is ok now! Just a minor setback...

[dave]

so has malc done the ace or not??

yes. hence my earlier post!

[squeek]

Is there now a cyber-race on for who can get £5 off planetfear?......
     

[dave]

damn straight. well since i got the jordan report in this week i figured i was on a roll. i don't usually do that sort of thing but am in a funny mood.

[dave]

anyway at least it proper news, not like some of the "so and so become youngest heflt handed ginger bulgarian to flash F7c+" or "R SIMPSON DOES SO AND SO BOULDER PROBLEM, 15 ATTEmPTS, 37.15 MINUTES, NOT 8a+".

[Kim]

damn straight. well since i got the jordan report in this week i figured i was on a roll. i don't usually do that sort of thing but am in a funny mood.

yeah for which you owe me 2.50 you cheeky fuk  :wink:

[dave]

when i get the green, you'll be on the scene!

that rhymes, and you know it.

[Adam Lincoln]

so has malc done the ace or not??

yes. hence my earlier post!

Plus Blazing 48's, and Walk On By...

[Jim]

when i get the green, you'll be on the scene!

You been throwin' down the illest rhymes :

[squeek]

http://www.smartboysonline.co.uk/Peak-Nov-037-Blazing-48s.jpg

Well Mr Earl might be an amazing climber, and only guy who topped out on my problem at round 2 of the BBC, but by the looks of this I'm the better spotter.  

Probably because everyone I climb with always looks like they're about to fall off    :wink: