UKBouldering.com

Yorkshire ripper. (Read 6164 times)

uptown

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 763
  • Karma: +65/-1
Yorkshire ripper.
July 25, 2009, 09:43:10 pm

I'm rather keen on trying the 3*** 8b Pegg Kilnsey classic that no-one else seems to have tried / know anything about.
Shout out if you're the exception and your pearls of wisdom are worthy, or if anyone fancies teaming up for a shot.
Also is it thus named for a reason other than having small sharp holds?
Great gurns can be found in TPOC, and the Roll of honour lists Tony Mitchell (twice) and Jibe Tribout.
Surely someone else has done it since 1991?  ???


Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4944
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#1 Re: Yorkshire ripper.
July 25, 2009, 09:45:10 pm
I am pretty sure Aaron Tonks has done this, and i have belayed Arran Deakin on this a few times. Can't really tell you much more apart from the bolts are not great,and its pretty sharp.

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3589
  • Karma: +312/-2
#2 Re: Yorkshire ripper.
July 25, 2009, 09:48:11 pm
I'll give it a dabble UTG. I'm happy to fail at any grade  :)

Nike Air

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 675
  • Karma: +72/-1
#3 Re: Yorkshire ripper.
August 11, 2009, 09:29:49 am
Whats the score with this route then? is it in a climbable state, holds still intake.
Tried it years and years and years ago before i climbed 8a+ and remember having to bail off a krab half way up. sad times, tail between the leg times. Maybe its time to get my krab back hey.

Probes

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Wood Abuser
  • Posts: 1068
  • Karma: +46/-2
    • Crusher Holds
#4 Re: Yorkshire ripper.
August 11, 2009, 03:27:16 pm
Belayed aaron on it a few times last year.. its ready to go with a clean i think.

north_country_boy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 939
  • Karma: +37/-0
#5 Re: Yorkshire ripper.
August 11, 2009, 08:54:05 pm
I know of at least one person who hasn't been mentioned who has done it, and I would guess that was in the last 5-10 years.

I'd be keen to know the score with this too......

uptown

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 763
  • Karma: +65/-1
#6 Re: Yorkshire ripper.
August 11, 2009, 09:01:15 pm
I'd be keen to know the score with this too......

I was chatting with PC today, he reckoned it was all down to a very hard crux section which hadn't been comfortised.
Incidentally it was dry enough to work on today.

north_country_boy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 939
  • Karma: +37/-0
#7 Re: Yorkshire ripper.
August 12, 2009, 12:28:06 am
I'd be keen to know the score with this too......

I was chatting with PC today, he reckoned it was all down to a very hard crux section which hadn't been comfortised.
Incidentally it was dry enough to work on today.

I'll get the lowdown from said ascentionist when I see him....

Andy F

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1987
  • Karma: +129/-13
  • Ex-ex-climber
#8 Re: Yorkshire ripper.
August 12, 2009, 12:35:20 am
I am pretty sure Aaron Tonks has done this, and i have belayed Arran Deakin on this a few times. Can't really tell you much more apart from the bolts are not great,and its pretty sharp.

Aaron hasn't done it (yet). I've also belayed him on it a few times, and it looks tough. The bolts are probabaly Dave Pegg's form back in the day and may well need replacing. As Jibe said (after his acsent) "Definative 8b".

corniceman

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 48
  • Karma: +1/-0
#9 Re: Yorkshire ripper.
August 12, 2009, 03:48:10 pm
yeah pretty sure reevie ticked it in 90's and mike Lee too. I nearly did it at a similar time 94 or 95 but bailed off top. For me I think it harder than other Kilnsey 8b i've done (Ecstacy) mainly as its crimpy and a bit run out from bolt 3 to 4 if I remember rightly.

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9627
  • Karma: +264/-4
#10 Re: Yorkshire ripper.
August 13, 2009, 09:26:24 pm
I went on it recently with high hopes and found it all a bit disappointing. The holds are grim and I like sh*tty  crimps, they're just unpleasant. I seem to remember one of the bolts (near the crux?) was a rusty wire around the threaded bar. I was also told this was likely to be replaced soon?
The lower wall is easy then the holds run out and it tends rightwards around a small bulge like feature (crux) before again easing off for the top bit.

north_country_boy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 939
  • Karma: +37/-0
#11 Re: Yorkshire ripper.
August 14, 2009, 03:13:37 pm
I went on it recently with high hopes and found it all a bit disappointing. The holds are grim and I like sh*tty  crimps, they're just unpleasant. I seem to remember one of the bolts (near the crux?) was a rusty wire around the threaded bar. I was also told this was likely to be replaced soon?
The lower wall is easy then the holds run out and it tends rightwards around a small bulge like feature (crux) before again easing off for the top bit.

Spoke to Reeve about this the other night, he did it late 90's as Simon said, along with Mike Lea. He said he found it fairly straightforward for 8b, and didn't understand why it got a reputation as a tough 8b. He even said he thought it was easier than ecstasy.....(take all that with a pinch of salt)

However, he said there was a really long move passing the bulge once you have traversed right, to come back left where Mike Lea had to go direct due to a lack of reach.....this he said was very hard!

Hopefuuly I'll get on it soon and check out what its like for myself....

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9627
  • Karma: +264/-4
#12 Re: Yorkshire ripper.
August 14, 2009, 06:08:38 pm
I'd argue the ectasy point somewhat...

uptown

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 763
  • Karma: +65/-1
#13 Re: Yorkshire ripper.
August 14, 2009, 10:28:46 pm
I seem to remember one of the bolts (near the crux?) was a rusty wire around the threaded bar. I was also told this was likely to be replaced soon?

I think that's still there, there are three newish resins in the lower wall though. I'll get on it when I'm back from hols, if it still needs a new bolt then, I'll do the deed.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal