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Who owns what, why and for how long? (Read 8477 times)

shark

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I mean if the real ascentionist was genuinely that bothered about not wanting to "piss on the fire" of the original bolter then why not just not finish the route, it's not that hard to just let go before the belay.

For the same reason that no one voluntarily lets go before the belay I imagine - we all want to tick the route.

robertostallioni

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The closer you get, the harder it is to stop.


uptown

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The line I was originally referring to was between Myra Hindley and Subculture. Aaron Tonks climbed it on Saturday at somewhere in the region of 7c+/8a, and I don't think it's been repeated yet.
It looks very worthy, great rock, though AT reckoned it has a hard egyptian clip for the fourth bolt, and it might need a touch of glue on a hold right of the third bolt.
Well done Aaron for a quick and worthy product.
Oh, it's called something like Rabbits and Pigeons in French...

To add to the tales...from 'The rumble in the jungle' at WCJ Cornice...

"On approaching the buttress one day, Pollitt noticed John-Baptiste Tribout attempting his unclimbed line. Instead of paddling the weir, an irate guerilla-like Pollitt reputedly took a short-cut and waded waist-high through the swamp to challenge Tribout!"

Tickler

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#28 Re: Who owns what, why and for how long?
August 05, 2009, 02:00:24 pm
That Pollitt story is brilliant!

Just remember that equipping a route takes vision and requires the resolution and skill to realise that vision.
Bolting routes is exceptionally strenuous, especially on steeper rock - it's certainly much harder than simply going climbing!
I'm sure most of us would just rather go climbing than waste our limited climbing days cleaning, drilling and bolting. Yet ultimately we all rely on the tenacity of dedicated individuals to 'create' the great routes we climb every week.
Read these comments carefully since I hope they give an understanding into the bolter claiming first ascension rites.

I've resurrected this thread since I have just bolted a route between Over the Moon and The Walking Mussel at LPT - the first new route here for 10 years (I think!). I'm sure this will attract plenty of attention, so please respect the fact that I've spent time, effort and money gearing this by not climbing it until I have! 
:please:


Thanks!
Tommy
North Wales

SA Chris

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#29 Re: Who owns what, why and for how long?
August 05, 2009, 02:11:14 pm
I'm sure this will attract plenty of attention, so please respect the fact that I've spent time, effort and money gearing this by not climbing it until I have! 


Now you tell me. Sorry.

:)

(divven't fret I huvnae set foot in Wales for 5 years)

uptown

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#30 Re: Who owns what, why and for how long?
August 09, 2009, 03:47:16 pm
Best of luck Tickler - keep us posted on here as to how you get on / when you do it. New sport routes don't seem to get much publicity nowadays unless the numbers are big.

Tickler

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#31 Re: Who owns what, why and for how long?
August 24, 2009, 10:02:32 am
That Pollitt story is brilliant!

Just remember that equipping a route takes vision and requires the resolution and skill to realise that vision.
Bolting routes is exceptionally strenuous, especially on steeper rock - it's certainly much harder than simply going climbing!
I'm sure most of us would just rather go climbing than waste our limited climbing days cleaning, drilling and bolting. Yet ultimately we all rely on the tenacity of dedicated individuals to 'create' the great routes we climb every week.
Read these comments carefully since I hope they give an understanding into the bolter claiming first ascension rites.

I've resurrected this thread since I have just bolted a route between Over the Moon and The Walking Mussel at LPT - the first new route here for 10 years (I think!). I'm sure this will attract plenty of attention, so please respect the fact that I've spent time, effort and money gearing this by not climbing it until I have! 
:please:



Looks like I owned it for 3 weeks...

Moonwalk 8a+ now awaits a second ascent  :)

 

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