[RopeBoy]

This really makes me want to go to the Verdon, or not...

I don't recall many tufas when I was there, pockets, yes, lots of those, not many tufas though. The height looks right though. Which sector of the mighty V is it?

J :-)

[Bonjoy]

I'm pretty sure that's a route called Tom and Jerry 8b+. It is at the Verdon, but I don't know which bit.

[Adam Lincoln]

I'm pretty sure that's a route called Tom and Jerry 8b+. It is at the Verdon, but I don't know which bit.

Good knowledge. Its name is 'Tom et je ris' in the guide.

[RASTATA]

found video of Martina Cufar


Route name is Tom et je ris, and is apparently named after son of the guy who bolt the line

[Fiend]

That looks fucking rad dude.

[Dr T]

That looks fucking rad dude.

rad - more like bowel disrupting or am I just a big girls blouse 

[Ru]

Tom et Je Ris looks stellar. It's a massive 60m tufa (actually 2 of them) that you have to ab into. As you go out from La Palud on the Gorge road going clockwise, this is on the opposite side of the gorge from the first (or maybe second) tourist viewing point. Of course you can't get there from there, you have to do a big walk in from the road on the other side of the gorge. Epic in every way for a single pitch sport route.

[clm]

wow - verdon is amazing.  must go back one day

[SA Chris]

Kolus E8 6c, Torridon

nice.

It’s a funny thing, that just because it’s thought of as being remote, there’s still not that many people that know how good the north west of Scotland is. I suppose it’s a good thing, for those that know. Torridonian sandstone is one of the finest rock types I’ve ever seen. It’s very similar to Gritstone and, sometimes, Northumbrian sandstone, but better on the whole, than both.

Surprised this wasn't commented upon. FWIW I agree.

[Fiend]

It wasn't commented upon because it is self-evidently true.

[SA Chris]

Indeed. Table Mountain, Grampians, Torridon. Best climbing rocks I have come across.

[r-man]

What's going on here? Where's the last bolt? Or the next one?

[dave]

maybe it was bolted on the lead by bachar.

[slackline]

Maybe its really a DWS, but the tide is strong so its a line to an anchor so she's not washed away if she takes the plunge?

[robertostallioni]

[tobym]

^^^ them's plaited Wendy-hairs, a la 'Smack the Pony'

[bigd942]

looks like a bolt off to the left at the same level as her hand, weird collection of draws on the harness, ground could be just out of site, would be a brave version of pulling the rope through a'la Underground/DaveMac 8c thing.

what was that Eddie Murphy movie where he checked the girls feet out the morning after??

[robertostallioni]

From Martina Cufar's website

For “pros” the routsetters bolted two amazing long routes in even more amazing Sikati cave (which was 1.5 hour boat ride away – adventure on big waves!!!). 8b for women and 8c for men. We had 1 hour time to work in the route, but no one reached the top, since the middle part was salty and wet; like climbing on the soap. And the rope friction was so big we couldn’t move anymore after 45 meters.

Next day the wind from the nord dried the wall, we also changed the tactic – switched the ropes in the middle to reduce friction. Charlotte Durif was the first to solve the mistery of the roof in upper part and did the route after one hour 15 minutes of climbing!! I went in the route just after her and with her advice I also managed to find a way through unknown roof, but even with switching the ropes I hardly clip the anchor. It was the 30st quickdrawer!!!

And she'd got the decorators in, too.

[cofe]

(Click for bigger version)

From Run DMC's blog. Firestone E7 6b, Cairngorms. The guy falls off. Looks amazing.

[Fiend]

I strongly suspect a lot of people don't take a 12m groundfall and walk away from it 

[SA Chris]

I wouldn't want to have to get out from Hells' Lum with a broken anything. Also shows what an uberwad and visionary Julian Lines is.

[dave]

looks awesome, but I don't think its quite as steep as that photo suggests.

[SA Chris]

He says in the blog that from the distance it looks like you can walk up it. Not that steep, but pretty blank.

[Adam Lincoln]

Jordan Buys, Ecstasy, Kilnsey.

[SA Chris]

Steve Bradshaw on new route near Capetown

http://www.mcsa.co.za/article.asp?id=383


nice FoF.