[dave]

[Bubba]

Is it normal to put gear in Strampiombante?

[dave]

no idea. don't see why not though, i mean you don't go off route to place it or anything, its right there in front of you.
If i ever do it i'd probably put some in.

[account_inactive]

Yeah you put in a wire to the left to protect you when the big stonker goes into the crack.  Its then worth down climbing, having a fag/coffee/cry an then going back up.

Getting established on the arete is the crux, but finishing it off is a bit insecure. :wink:

[samJ]

You mean you never read this:::--- tells you exactly how to do the other one to the left (and this funnily enough recommends a fag/cry etc as well)

  http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=265

[dave]

anyone else puzzled as to why people recomend strapiombante as a good first E1 to do? for a start is pollished pumpy, and hard. i've back off it twice, one on the day that photo of dangerous on strapadic was taken, and secondly a few years later at the end of a really good day when me and a mate did great slab. i should really try and solo it.

If i do try strapadic i'll be sure to hang off the top and make sure i draw some nice font-style donkeylines on the top holds, o i can see where they are through my eyelids.

[hongkongstuey]

a younger me cranking away in SA (photos by SAChris)

[dave]

anyone else puzzled as to why people recomend strapiombante as a good first E1 to do? for a start is pollished pumpy, and hard. i've back off it twice, one on the day that photo of dangerous on strapadic was taken, and secondly a few years later at the end of a really good day when me and a mate did great slab. i should really try and solo it.

did this finally on saturday. I still stnad by the fact that it is pollished, pumpy and hard, and will add to the list overrated.

strapiombo is much better!

[SA Chris]

I had forgotten about those pics stu. The top one looks better in the slide, but the bottom one is actually quite good.  Can almost feel the heat from here.

[tommytwotone]

BUMP

VS flava - Roof Route at Burb South:

[tommytwotone]

having a job linking to the photo in the gallery - any tips??

[Fiend]

I think the forum is rejecting it because it's a bumshot of a route with loads of dangling hexes  :wink:

[tommytwotone]

word. a rarity that i was actually on the sharp end of rope...the harness and the hexes ain't mine incidentally.

You should just be impressed it was onsight, ground up, lead and without lashing a sling round any of the chockstones in the crack...

Now don't make me come down there and :twak: yo bee - hatch ass.

[Bonjoy]

Have fixed it. You were were trying to link to the URL of the page the picture was on rather than the URL of the picture (right click on photo and select properties to find these)

[dave]

BUMP

VS flava - Roof Route at Burb South:

thats pretty much the point i got my leg stuck at and lowered off.

[tommytwotone]

thought about lowering off but my ego would not allow it. definately one of those moments when you get that horrible sick feeling of being woefully out of your depth... :?

for any prospective ascendants, I think i should underline - that is less a smile of pleasure, more a fixed grimace of fear and pain.

That said though, bring on Right Eliminate!!!

[Sloper]

Anyone done the slab to the right of roof route at Burbage south, looks a reasonable E2?

[Paz]

Yeah*, it's been claimed about three million times as a new route with and without side runners by at least Readza and the elusive D Thomas, and climbed by a million bumblies who've gone off route on Roof Route itself.

*Not done it myself

[grimer]

Ah, the elusive D Thomas. The random factor of guidebook writers. Asked the Dawes about him the other day, who pointed out DT would regularly burn Jen and Berry off at the wall. Talented, but oh so fucking random.

I uneathed another classic for the pad brigade at Burb South the other day, John Allen's Hell for Leather on Milwheel Wall. It's the ramp. Despite being greener than an Irish Tourism brochure it is perfectly climbable. (I abbed down it with the oft touted Nylon Brush, and watched it glide ineffectually over the green. Mote to Self... hide a wire brush inside a sock for next time).

It's a fingery 6b bit low down, basicaly just to leave the ledge at head height, then positive 5bish to the top. Piece of class. E4 6c.

[Huffy]

-----------------------------------Westie playing hack-----------------------------------

[a dense loner]

ah grimer, the small is beautiful thing. it appears that randoms were not doing said route but something easier just to the right. personally feel that SIB is harder than V5, n thats with me keep jumpin down from the last big move cos of sticky brown pants :cry:

[Jim]

Agreed with dense, small is beautiful felt solid 7a+ to me with a scary topout

[grimer]

noted

[Sloper]

Sp what's the views on the slab to the right of Roof Route, is it E2 or harder, not been on it (and sicne I've got one weekend climbing before my knee surgery) and no plans to get on it in the immediate future, just curious?

[dave]