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JC completes LTQ LGP (Read 3150 times)

Bonjoy

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JC completes LTQ LGP
July 12, 2009, 11:41:50 am
Jon Clarke has managed to redpoint the long (well a few years anyway) standing project wall at LTQ. This was originally bolted by James P back when we started redeveloping the crag and has been tried by various folk since. I think hard 8b wall climbing was mentioned, no name as yet. It goes up the super vague crackline just right of the start of Mosey on Down the Crow Road and finished up Jon's other new route Ruby LH (which is 7c+ in itself). Good effort that man!
« Last Edit: July 12, 2009, 01:15:53 pm by Bonjoy »

n_man

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#1 Re: JC completes LTQ LGP
July 12, 2009, 11:54:23 am
GETMIWI    :great:

JC

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#2 Re: JC completes LTQ LGP
July 12, 2009, 01:27:05 pm
I can't believe the lack of people getting into LTQ! There's never anyone there, unlike Lorry Park. Its such a brilliant wall as well, lots of mega crimpy routes from Bonjoy and others.   8)

chappers

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#3 Re: JC completes LTQ LGP
July 12, 2009, 05:18:25 pm
W I LTQ???

slackline

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uptown

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#5 Re: JC completes LTQ LGP
July 12, 2009, 08:47:44 pm
I can't believe the lack of people getting into LTQ! There's never anyone there, unlike Lorry Park. Its such a brilliant wall as well, lots of mega crimpy routes from Bonjoy and others.   8)

I've said it before, I'll say it again - the boltest is one of the top 5 7c's I've done in the Peak, and Ruby fruit is a top 5 8a too. Looking at that topo gives me a 17 year itch. Well done JC, and BJ too.

belperpete

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#6 Re: JC completes LTQ LGP
July 12, 2009, 11:15:14 pm
After work today, I belayed JC on a successful redpoint of his last of the trilogy of 2009 new lines at LTQ - Jungle Fury 8a+ (probably a lot harder for the more dimensionally challenged!).
Takes Boltest to the break, then blasts up independantly direct, between Boltest and Ruby to a crap sloper crimp and then via a super long move leftwards
somehow gains the rightmost crimp of Ruby. Easier moves lead up and rightwards to the last few moves of The Boltest and a new belay, between the two.
It's a hybrid, but without doubt, a really good one - by all accounts, a more direct version of The Boltest.
IMHO could be harder than the old James P/Ruby Left Hand thing, to redpoint!
The crag's in super condition at the mo - dry as a board, shaded, but open, as with Lorry Park, Newbridge and Turkey Dip.
Don't ignore the sport on High Tor - some brilliant routes to be found.
There are many potential 2nd ascents of quality routes to be had down here.
It's great to see so many people at Lorry Park - 2 guys, at 7.45pm tonight, working Thunder Road for eg.
Topo and directions on www.sportsclimbs.co.uk

james

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#7 Re: JC completes LTQ LGP
July 12, 2009, 11:39:07 pm
Good skills to all involved, It shows the quality of the venue when I have hundreds of amazing crags within easy reach of me in Euroland but I still think about LTQ!

There is one minor point that interests me however... Im surprised that this has been climbed at such a steady grade as when I first bolted and tried it it felt like the living end.  I felt like it was one of (if not the) hardest wall climb I had tried, at least font 8b etc (yes I know people will probably jump on the "what do you know about grades" band wagon)

Has this wall changed in anyway since a few years ago from breakages, "constructive" cleaning etc.  If it helps at all, I remember about 3 moves of terrible backhand slopers (so bad I couldnt take weight off the rope) before getting the the first reasonable hold where a few more tricky moves found the mid height weaknesses.

Skills whichever way

Adios

belperpete

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#8 Re: JC completes LTQ LGP
July 13, 2009, 12:22:32 am
Ola, James and it's amazing to hear from you! Glad to hear you still think of the place!
I like the honesty in your query, but there's been no 'constructive cleaning'. However, not sure about about your original, attempted line.
JC pulled on and followed the faint 'seam' direct, up and leftwards, at the top, to the break - you may have tried to move rightwards??
I remember Bonjoy saying you thought it was one hold short of possible.
With regard to grades , JC's new routes in the Matlock area aren't yet getting many ascents. He's finding it difficult to judge, as he can only go by the way he feels on his routes.
You know all about that! Your old project, in all honesty went really smoothly, on the day, but there was a lot of work behind that moment.
Now, I readily admit I can't now, or ever, climb anywhere near this level, but know a hard route when I see it and I'm always telling him he's undergrading.
No, it's not font 8b, but re 'what do I know about grades...?' - you're dead right. JC is 6'3/4", with the right build/training regime and these routes, undoubtedly suit him.
Why don't you get over here sometime, for old time's sake. Sport has moved on a lot in the Matlock area recently, courtesy of JC!
Adios
Pete


Andy Harris

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#9 Re: JC completes LTQ LGP
July 13, 2009, 03:52:46 pm
Having put a few days in on this I was equally horrified at the suggestion of French 8b. I managed all the moves (bar 1 horrendous footmove) in a couple of sessions and thought it was Font 8a for sure and definitely sport 8c (even with the easy finish).

I tried it shortly after you James and this was my sequence
RH- sharp incut crimp (may have had some glue on it?)
LH- to high small flat crimp
RF to low tiny crozzle
RH-bump in to intermediate u'cut
RH- poor sidepull (I couldn't pinch this)
very hard foot move
LH- old flat chipped crimp
from here it was tricky but OK

I spoke to JC and he said the pinch crumbled so he backed it up and it maybe became a little better. Now I couldn't pinch this in the 1st place as it was so poor which is partly why the next foot move was so hard. This could be a case of a minuscule improvement makes a big impact to the move.

Personally I don't think being tall on this one helps as there are just enough hand/foot holds to do the deed. It's just plain hard. Would be keen to give it another go if I get a spare go.

Good effort JC, this really is a great piece of climbing and in true old school vertical style. Even if the pinch move is now OK I'd expect it to be at least 8b+.

JC

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#10 Re: JC completes LTQ LGP
July 13, 2009, 04:17:07 pm
Cheers Andy,  my sequence was more or less the same apart from i didn't use the intermediate u'cut - went straight to the pinch. I agree about the very hard foot move, took me ages to figure out the best place for my feet! Maybe it needs a better job doing on restoring the pinch i don't know.
Would love to hear your thoughts on grade if you ever get back on it. I've not got a clue   :'(

 

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