[moose]

As the title says: beta for the rightwards lip traverse into Happy Days would be much appreciated, especially sequences of benefit to the taller gent.

Little is too small or obvious for volunteering - I read rock like Abu Hamza reads braille.

[webbo]

isn't there a video of jon pearson doing this on the yorkshire grit site.my tall mates climb in much the same way.

[moose]

there's no video on yorkshiregrit - just a couple of photos.

[uptown]

As the title says: beta for the rightwards lip traverse into Happy Days would be much appreciated, especially sequences of benefit to the taller gent.

Little is too small or obvious for volunteering - I read rock like Abu Hamza reads braille.

A classic shuffle Moose. I have a vid somewhere so I'll mail that over to you - beats having to translate the silky movements into prose...

[GCW]

Stick it on Vimeo for all to see, I'd be interested in how it's done.

[webbo]

having just had a quick look it seems like jon has take off all the vids of himself.

[36chambers]

Can anyone offer any further beta for this?

I've seen a clip of Dan Turner doing it with an almighty cut loose off a make believe pinch and also a clip of Jordan Buys climbing it feet first, however I'm too weak for the former and possibly too little (or just weak) for the latter. 

Furthermore, can anyone confirm that the back wall is in or out for feet?

[andy_e]

It's in. I think it's on my Martin J Parchives Brimham episode.

[36chambers]

It's in. I think it's on my Martin J Parchives Brimham episode.

I've watched them all many times, I just thought he was cheating.

Good to know, thank you.

[Stabbsy]

I climb it feet first. However, I'm definitely not little. Unfortunately, having made it all the way to the boss on a number of occasions, I seem to have lost the ability to do Happy Days. Have you seen the beta on the Lawsons Call of the Grit (Part 2 I think) video? My method is a variation on that.

[moose]

I've climbed it twice - once using a foothold at the back wall, the other time keeping to the lip and heel-hooking a pebble.  The main difficulty for me was always hanging the terrible crimp next to the pocket - needed cool conditions.  Vaguely recall toe-hooking and slapping my RH to the lip at the base of the Happy Daze groove - I'll dig out my old guide tonight - I would be surprised if I didn't write my sequence down.

[SA Chris]

I would be surprised if I didn't write my sequence down.

I'm surprised anyone does this. And impressed!

[36chambers]

cheers guys

Have you seen the beta on the Lawsons Call of the Grit (Part 2 I think) video?

Yes, I think that's similar to what I was trying, although it was over a year since I last gave it a go. I just remember scraping my shin lots and failing to get my heel onto (or near) the boss.

Moose I think it was your UKC comment that started my doubts about what's in in the first place.

I'll try again on a cool day and see how it goes.

[moose]

Moose I think it was your UKC comment that started my doubts about what's in in the first place.
I'll try again on a cool day and see how it goes.

I think some jealous midgets had cast asperions on me first time around, so, years later during a spell when everything else was wet, I repeated it without the back wall.  I have no strong feelings on what's in or out myself - just decided to do it again sticking to the lip as a personal challenge.  The UKC logbook grade of 7b seems a bit mean though regardless of method - the guidebook grade of 7c is possibly a bit high (if it was that hard, I probably couldn't do it) ... but 7b?!

[andy_e]

Having tried and done it both ways, there's probably not a huge amount of difference. Feet on the back is easier for the tall, feet first is easier for those with less leg. Feet first is the most satisfying and fun method, but the other way is still good too.

[SA Chris]

[ The UKC logbook grade of 7b seems a bit mean though regardless of method - the guidebook grade of 7c is possibly a bit high (if it was that hard, I probably couldn't do it) ... but 7b?!

So you are saying 7b+ then?

[moose]

Hard 7b+ would reflect my own experience.  But I repeated it after a long period of almost purely route climbing - which I suspect has completely robbed me of the ability to grade grit boulder problems.  That, in combination with my slightly freakish build  means I am a bit warely about suggesting grades (but 7b for Ian's Traverse... surely not?).  I seem to be climbing stuff these days solely by "knack" and bloody-mindedness rather than any real strength.

[SA Chris]

Knack, bloody mindedness and freakish build* are the very foundations of my entire climbing career.

*(lanky git with very flexible hips)