[Nike Air]

Does one exist? Much searching has found nowt but wondered if anybody else knows better.

JB

[Bubba]

Not sure if this will help but it's all I could find.

http://wikitopo.com/crag.php?cragId=341&tId=57

Not sure how this page works but this links to a more interactive topo. (requires Java)

[Nike Air]

Nice one, cheers, better than nothing. Ive got the very very selective new north wales guide so i can use that in conjunction with those links.

Really suprised there is not a proper Bo topo kicking around!! Oh for Greg C. to live in LLandudno and be a sport climber

[Doylo]

Is the limestone rockfax out of print?

[Nike Air]

Is the limestone rockfax out of print?

Hmmm not sure but big book for a couple of useful pages for me. A friend just said i could have his, has it got all the current routes in? Do any new ones ever get put up?

[Doylo]

No new routes down LPT, Pas de Deux could be 8b though rather than 8a+. Walking Mussel grade is still up in the air too. Sea of Tranquility is right at 8c+ and Liquid Ambar as 8c.

[petejh]

There's now a decent online topo for LPT up on the North Wales Limestone wiki, here: http://northwaleslimestone.wetpaint.com/

[Nike Air]

There's now a decent online topo for LPT up on the North Wales Limestone wiki, here: http://northwaleslimestone.wetpaint.com/

Nice topo, some interesting grade changes on it and also suggested grades further down the page.....
Grades hey!!!!

[mrjonathanr]

Good topo. Any chance of updating for Castell y Gwynt?

[Doylo]

Nice work once again Pete,  i stiill think bad boy and mussel beach should retain their usual grades (7c and 8a).  They're never the sam grade IMO. Don't know about Liquid Ambar, 8c or 8c+? Agree with the other re-grades though

[petejh]

Cheers mate.
Grades-wise - because I'm just a punter, I went off emails, discussions and comments made by five or six of the guys who've been climbing/projecting those routes recently (including yours on the wiki). I'm certainly no expert on the routes concerned! Not to be taken too seriously really but hopefully it'll act as an incentive for people to climb there.

My back's properly fucked from last week, it's disc trouble from a long term injury, I'm absolutely gutted. javascript:void(0); I was in ogwen with my girfriend and I could barely make the walk out! This has almost been my worst ever year for injuries, the worst ever being 7 months out with a slipped disc. javascript:void(0);

Looks like my projects will have to wait.

[Doylo]

Cheers mate.
Grades-wise - because I'm just a punter, I went off emails, discussions and comments made by five or six of the guys who've been climbing/projecting those routes recently (including yours on the wiki). I'm certainly no expert on the routes concerned! Not to be taken too seriously really but hopefully it'll act as an incentive for people to climb there.

My back's properly fucked from last week, it's disc trouble from a long term injury, I'm absolutely gutted. javascript:void(0); I was in ogwen with my girfriend and I could barely make the walk out! This has almost been my worst ever year for injuries, the worst ever being 7 months out with a slipped disc. javascript:void(0);

Looks like my projects will have to wait.

Its good to stir things up a bit grade wise! Sucks about the back mate they are fickle things!

[ksjs]

FWIW it seems widely agreed that Bad Bad Boy warrants 7c+. ive done this (after concerted effort) but dont have much by way of comparison at least in the UK save some 7b/7b+ ticks and as yet fruitless plays on 8as. my european 7c ticks took a fraction of the time compared to BBB (and im not talking known soft euro venues here), all things considered 7c+ seems right.

Kaffe Fasset definitely deserves 6b+, this is never 6b.

good topo Pete by the way.

[Bonjoy]

To throw a spanner in the works, i thought BBB was a hard 7c but not 7c+.

[fatboySlimfast]

7c+ from my view, I did several 8a's at the same time I tried this and got spat off the reach at the top numerous times. My view at the time was that it was to powerful to be just 7c.
The grading mafia at the time labelled it as 7c and so it stuck

[Kingy]

I'll put my vote in for 7c. It is defo a tough one, particularly for the more vertically challenged among us. Compare it to other old school 7c's like Dominatrix, Just not in Lust and New Dawn then it doesn't seem to be that much different? Plus there is a good undercut shake-out to compose before the last moves.

[Doylo]

Tis a strange one, if you can reach the final crimp sidepull off the undecuts fairly comfortably its 7c for sure. I've seen some shorties have to bone down on the intermediate crimps to get out there though and this is 7c+.

[JohnM]

I vote 7c+!  Every other 7c I have ever done has taken me 3 goes or less.  This one took me three years!   

[Doylo]

Thats 3 votes for 7c and 3 for 7c+ so far then! 

[ian dunn]

BBB took me similar amount of goes as Comedy, New Dawn so I reckon 7c though top end. I could reach the side pull from the top undercut if I got my feet in the right place it would be really hard to work that out on the onsight so may be 7c+ for the onsight by a shortie!! so no change in the poll then!! 3.5 votes each.

Muscle Beach is definitely the easiest 8a I have done but it could stay at 8a so it can be everyone's first and the UK's softest!

[Bonjoy]

Someone correct me if i'm wrong, but I don't believe sport grades are given for theoretical onsights in the same way trad grades are. I thing the grade is for the easiest sequence and nothing else. In which case your vote is a straight 7c Ian.

[Teaboy]

It seems too hard to be 7c, too many good people take too long to do this route! You don't have to be particulalry short to find the top moves hard. I'm 5'9" and have to hold the crimp before jumping my hand into the right hand undercut (which is much worse than the LH one) and then go again with my right and still *only just* reach.

If it goes in at 7c then fair enough but surely there aren't two grades between this and MB?

[ian dunn]

Someone correct me if i'm wrong, but I don't believe sport grades are given for theoretical onsights in the same way trad grades are. I thing the grade is for the easiest sequence and nothing else. In which case your vote is a straight 7c Ian.

ok straight 7c but hard fot the grade!

[north_country_boy]

Hard 7c. Lets not compress the scale people.

[Nike Air]

Did anyone else think muscle beach tougher than parasite?
Would it mess the grading scale up to have BBB at 7c+?

[Tickler]

I'll vote for 7c for BBB.
I don't think it is harder than other Orme 7c routes such as Body Torque Direct or Tomorrow People.
I actually found Martha (the 7c direct on Night Glue) harder... probably due to climbing it in a heat wave though!

I though Parasite was harder than Mussel Beach, but still at the easier end of 8a. I think it suits bouldering fitness more than the longer 8as to the right. Contrary to what the guide books says, Parasite is a very good route and it's good to see it finally getting some traffic. Until this year, I have never seen chalk on it.

[Doylo]

BB is hard 7c and Mussel soft 8a,so not really two full grades difference.

[petejh]

'BB is hard 7c (or an easyish 7c+) and Mussel soft 8a (or a hardish 7c+), so not really two full grades difference.'



Alaska grade 1 -6 works for me.

[nash1]

Very cool topo on Wetpaint there.

There is a massive gap between Liquid Ambar and Big Bang. Someone get on it NOW...! Bout time Wales had a 9a+...

[Doylo]

Not many folk can climb 9a+ round these parts.there are holds on that line though,looks mega.

[Adam Lincoln]

Not many folk can climb 9a+ round these parts.there are holds on that line though,looks mega.

Just loose some more weight 

[Doylo]

It looks easier than big bang,the top headwall looks more featured although the middle is probably harder looking at it.i will defo bolt it sometime, but probably for someone a bit skinnier.

[Jaspersharpe]

Need to get Sue Pollard over. When are the next school holidays?

[slackline]

Need to get Sue Pollard over. When are the next school holidays?

[Jaspersharpe]

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,2309.msg204386.html#msg204386

[slackline]

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,2309.msg204386.html#msg204386

Ahh, failed to remember that connection!