[Stu Littlefair]

Ladies and Gentlemen - I'm making one of my rare visits northwards this weekend and will be mostly climbin around the Yorkshire Grit area.

As I've been out of the YG scene for a long while I was wondering if any of you could point me at some dope problems at, say, Caley to try. I'd like something about 7c/+ to have a play on. Not reachy. Or too painful. OR even that hard, now we come to mention it.

It has to be fairly new (less than 3 years old) as well, or I've probably already failed on it too much to be bothered trying again. If anyone knows any new soft-touch grade 8s I'd be stoked too.

Thank you all.

[dave]

I'm no expert on that area (its a bit scrappy what?) and i don't know what you done before, but what about Zoo york, norther soul (sitter to blockbuster) or those bens groove from sitting stuff. they all look good lines.

[Stu Littlefair]

Good shit Dave.

Zoo York? Donde?

[dave]

its that severley overhanging arete from sitting on little tings, basically the right arete of the blockbuster wall. looks amazing, even if it was got a tree right under it. you'll need a willing spot.

[hongkongstuey]

there must be a stack load of new'ish stuff at Slipstones thats been added in the last 3-4 years and yorkshire grit even has nice topo's etc for the area - i know its a bit of a trek north of Caley etc but its a class little crag

[dobbin]

I've heard the stuff at Slipstones is hard touch rather than soft touch, so that might not fit the bill... I've never actually been though, so am not in the most informed position.

[Stu Littlefair]

Cheers Guys - s'all good.

Watch. it. rain.

[Ru]

What's you plans Stu? - give me a call.

[Stu Littlefair]

Aren't you checking yer email Ru?

I'll call tonight. I know it will rain. I know it.

[Johnny Brown]

Loads for you to go at Stu -
at Caley,
Ben's groove s-d probably the best 7c+ in yorkshire. Without beta you may struggle in one session though.
Zoo york, 8a overhangin' crimpin'. On-sighted by the Van-wad!!
Terry - not new but has enjoyed a renaissance. Totally classic 7b+ wall.
Juha's arete - long standing project at crag, at 7c, but methinks you too small.

if its wet I imagine you'll go to the wart, which you know well enough, but probably haven't done:
Pistol whip, 7c, the ex-project groove behind the egg.3*

All these have less than perfect landings - take 2 pads or get some mates

enjoy :D

[Jim]

Terry is a class looking problem, a touch green but looks the shit. Have down the start moves and have seen it done, slightly high-ball with a small hole on the landing (easily fillable with a pair of sneaks and a mat over the top). I also love (or is it hate) pebble wall next to it - I will get it on my next visit (honest) - I know it a few grades easier but again it's da shit

[SA Chris]

Give us a yowl if its not lashing down stu. Be good to get out. You been to Crookstones yet? Looks like some good stuff, not much at that grade though (yet?)

[Ru]

Who is Van-wad? Sorry, I don't really get all this westie-speak. Was climbing with Sam W, Harry, Adam Long etc last w/e, and only really understood every third word (that's word as in "the written word" not word as in "that's fierce - word").

[Stu Littlefair]

Word.

[Johnny Brown]

Van as in Jvan Tresch, aka The Van-wad because he is a complete 'wad'.
He's now out in Yosemite with his brother Michi, who is regarded by all as the better climber of the two :shock:, no doubt embarrassing all the 'names'.

just be glad you didn't ask who Raggy is...

p.s. crookstones is cack. Don't waste your time. Even if you live in Leeds its definitely not worth the drive, unless you combine it with a trip to crookrise but don't actually bother going to crookstones.

[AndyR]

p.s. crookstones is cack. Don't waste your time. Even if you live in Leeds its definitely not worth the drive, unless you combine it with a trip to crookrise but don't actually bother going to crookstones.

Bit harsh really - obviously not worth the effort if you're going up there for hard problems, but there are lots of good problems for us punters - I've been to lots of places that are much worse  :?

[Johnny Brown]

...'tis advice for Stu though, and I think if he drove all the way from exeter to climb there he'd be mighty pissed off with whoever said it was good.

[AndyR]

...'tis advice for Stu though, and I think if he drove all the way from exeter to climb there he'd be mighty pissed off with whoever said it was good.

Put like that, fairy nuff  

[Ru]

just be glad you didn't ask who Raggy is...

It's ok, I know who Raggy is.

Good, I'm glad that it's just Ivan Tresch that's flashed it. I heard about that. I was getting images of it being flashed by hoards of strongsters from Leeds that I'd never heard of. Was worried that I'd have to start training again if I was to ever hold my head up in Yorkshire.

[Big Frank]

p.s. crookstones is cack. Don't waste your time. Even if you live in Leeds its definitely not worth the drive, unless you combine it with a trip to crookrise but don't actually bother going to crookstones.

Bit harsh really - obviously not worth the effort if you're going up there for hard problems, but there are lots of good problems for us punters - I've been to lots of places that are much worse  :?

I went a couple of weeks ago ( on me todd, jonny no mates again!), It's worth going for Hang the boss (flailed and failed on this), and the superb Stone Brush a classic problem.

Thought arete land was a little overated, especialy Original Arete which looks good but actualy is pants.

[Big Frank]

Anyway why does everyone call it Crookstones, take a look at the OS map it has a perfectly good name already..........Hellifield.

[Stu Littlefair]

Blimey. All that quality advice  :D

Well, I'm getting on the train in an hour, so I'll see what I can make of all those. Weather is supposed to be cloudy and cold, but dry. Fingers crossed.

Looks like a caley session is certainly on the cards anyway, but I might steer clear of Crookstones, or Hellifield, or whatever you want to call it, unless the punters in the party stage a coup - which might happen if I make them go to earl again.

I can't describe to you how happy I am to be going back to the grit  :wink:

[Jim]

I can't describe to you how happy I am to be going back to the grit  :wink:

Well it is the rock of the god's after all

[squeek]

You'd have thought the Gods would have made a lot more Grit, if it is there own rock.  What they should have made is a rock which drys your hands the hotter it gets, then you wouldn't need to use mankey chalk which makes your hands all gooey.  

If you got more friction the hotter it got do you think we'd have a lot more hard routes being done because the days are longer in summer?
Hmmmm......

 :?

[Big Frank]

D

 unless the punters in the party stage a coup - which might happen if I make them go to earl again.

If they stage a coup Lords seat is a good venue, excelent location, quality grit but bit of a walk.
Check it out;
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/yg/topo/lords.pdf

[Stu Littlefair]

Cheers for the tips. There was no coup, but it did rain. (I fucking KNEW it!).
Saturday was spent beasting ourselves at the Leeds Wall, but we got enough dryness on Sunday to get some in at a slightly damp Caley. S'all good.

Thanks for all the problem suggestions - I was a bit staggered by how many ace problems we left at caley for others to do! I had a good time doing Northen Soul, Blockbuster and Ju-Ju club, all class. Zoo York is a stunning line spoilt by a terrible landing, and the sitter to ben's groove puts up less of a fight than the rest of Ben's Groove. How the fuck????

Feeling wrecked today - piccies at http://www.astro.ex.ac.uk/people/sl/Caley

[Johnny Brown]

the sitter to ben's groove puts up less of a fight than the rest of Ben's Groove. How the fuck????

...that'll be the difference between strength and technique then!

remember the spoon gave it 8a from standing!!!

Power is nothing without technique :wink: