UKBouldering.com

Entree (Read 16708 times)

north_country_boy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 939
  • Karma: +37/-0
#25 Re: Entree
June 08, 2008, 06:34:17 pm
Its a damn sight harder than Baby Chimes! Can't really compare it to full chimes as the top of chimes is piss if you have the ability to recover on the massive jugs!!!

It certainly seems a sandbag at 8a, but must say i agree with The Sausage about grade creep....

dobbin

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3708
  • Karma: +147/-9
  • Buoux 7a
#26 Re: Entree
June 10, 2008, 09:46:04 am
I think its hard for 8a. But then I havent done it so my point of view is based soley on having found plenty of short 8a's quite steady, and this is anything but steady.

Getting back to Ru's sequence, I know the pod he is on about, its far out right. I fettled at it, but dismissed it as the work of a mad man. Perhaps this is why I didnt get any further.

dobbin

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3708
  • Karma: +147/-9
  • Buoux 7a
#27 Re: Entree
July 21, 2008, 11:33:57 am
Ted crushed this yesterday. I split a tip but we managed to bust a new sequence : from the undercut, put rf and drop knee to take gaston, left hand to two finger dish just up and right and then rh back to gaston in pod out right. lh to tooth by dogging bolt, rh pocket, lh sloper, build feet, lh edge, lh again to notch. Done. NIce one ted.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9988
  • Karma: +576/-10
#28 Re: Entree
July 21, 2008, 11:58:50 am
8a or 8a+? I noticed Ted went for 8a on his scorecard. Is it really easier than Caviar? Maybe I should give it another go.
« Last Edit: July 21, 2008, 12:29:24 pm by Bonjoy »

dave

  • Guest
#29 Re: Entree
July 21, 2008, 12:01:35 pm
8a? he didn't flash it though.

dobbin

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3708
  • Karma: +147/-9
  • Buoux 7a
#30 Re: Entree
July 21, 2008, 12:31:31 pm
Harder than HFC, but easier than Caviar (with new beta!). Given that it packs it in to the first 10ft its got to have some hard moves in it. Easier than PUTP. Horses for courses innit.

uptown

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 763
  • Karma: +65/-1
#31 Re: Entree
July 21, 2008, 01:26:39 pm
I remember a couple of egyptians helped for me, and getting there early to beat the sun. It was 8a+ in the peak supplement from 1991, though hard 8a (font 7c) seems right for me. Theres a great picture of Ben on it in TPOC - I particularly like Seans NZ hairstyle of the day!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal