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Ondra crushes Mello again. (Read 14054 times)

Jaspersharpe

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#25 Re: Ondra crushes Mello again.
June 09, 2009, 09:05:24 am


Never one to rest on his laurels Ondra's nipped over to the Jura and climbed Bock's 9a+ Corona in 8 tries.

slackline

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#26 Re: Ondra crushes Mello again.
June 09, 2009, 09:23:40 am
Never one to rest on his laurels Ondra's nipped over to the Jura and climbed Bock's 9a+ Corona in 8 tries.

Wonder if Bock will be denigrating his efforts too  :whistle:

Paul B

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#27 Re: Ondra crushes Mello again.
June 09, 2009, 09:31:11 am
Never one to rest on his laurels screech nipped over to the Jura and climbed Bock's 9a+ Corona in 8 tries.

dave

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#28 Re: Ondra crushes Mello again.
June 09, 2009, 09:43:43 am
yet another "no-name" comes over to the jura and crushes a bockpiece eh? they'll love that.

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#29 Re: Ondra crushes Mello again.
June 09, 2009, 11:31:38 am
Incredible effort. But what does 8 tries mean.

You could easily have 8 tries on a route like this in a day or 1 try a day for 8 days. does that include a day (or more or a few hours of working). I guess it means 8 redpoint attempts including an onsigt or flash attempt + unspecified working. Theoretically it could mean 1 redpoint, a year of specific training, 1 redpoint & so on and so on.

There seems to be an increasing propencity to break down any ascent into the shortest most impressive time span to blow smoke up one's own *(or in Ondra's case it's probably 8a doing the blowing!)

Why can't people keep it simple and just say onsight, flash or x days. Personally I don't give a toss how quickly or slowly people do stuff but if it's going to be written up let's have a simple standard.

Paul B

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#30 Re: Ondra crushes Mello again.
June 09, 2009, 11:38:21 am
this is what I was trying to get at in another thread where additional info about the problem ascent detracts from the actual achievment and causes discussion where none is necessary.

Jaspersharpe

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#31 Re: Ondra crushes Mello again.
June 09, 2009, 11:40:13 am
It's what he wrote on his scorecard.

Quote from: Harry Potter
   wow! OK, it is low level 9a+, but still could be 9a+ though I needed mere 8 tries to send it! a bit different sequence than Markus plus being tall helps a lot...

Not particularly clear I agree.

Nibile

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#32 Re: Ondra crushes Mello again.
June 12, 2009, 02:32:00 pm
c'mon, i know that it could mean an onsight attempt, one year of training and so on for 8 tries and 8 years, but they're not talking about me, they're talking about ondra. i think 8 tries could be three days for him, as he generally rests one or even two hours between attempts.
i don't think the "how many days" could make it  clearer. the clearest could be "x tries over x days" with maybe how many tries each day.
and anyway, even 8 tries over 8 years would be an amazing effort, in terms of memory and perfect planification.

Paul B

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#33 Re: Ondra crushes Mello again.
June 12, 2009, 03:18:56 pm
I don't really see why its relevant beyond, onsight, flash etc. with Ondra I think everyone is very aware that its not a siege. If it was he wouldn't have ticked all of the other things that get reported week after week. The guys is (a frighteningly weak looking) beast!

Jaspersharpe

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#34 Re: Ondra crushes Mello again.
June 17, 2009, 11:06:20 am
He did the second ascent of Om the other day (unrepeated Huber 9a from '92).

It should get  :yawn: But instead it just gets more  :o .

dave

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#35 Re: Ondra crushes Mello again.
June 17, 2009, 11:19:39 am
i remember seeing a photo of Om from way back, it looked totally mexico.

<edit> here it is:


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#36 Re: Ondra crushes Mello again.
June 17, 2009, 12:43:44 pm
i remember seeing a photo of Om from way back, it looked totally mexico.
::) lol. Tis a rad photo. Need to get a large version for Magpie to ogle.

Nibile

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#37 Re: Ondra crushes Mello again.
June 17, 2009, 09:40:45 pm
i clearly remember being very close to climb 9a in kendos back in tha day.
those were the times.

Jaspersharpe

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#38 Re: Ondra crushes Mello again.
June 18, 2009, 09:16:24 am
i clearly remember being very close to climb 9a in kendos back in tha day.
those were the times.

Climbing 7a in Kendos was no mean feat.

 

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