[clgladiator]

I recently read in climb that Steve McClure recommends bicep curls for climbing and more specifically Malham, he also says that many high level climbers and coaches think that weights training would be beneficial for our sport. I'm not intending to jump in the weights room because of this but was wondering if anyone has any experience of weights aiding their climbing and what exercises would be beneficial such as finger rolls, bench press, bicep curls etc.

[Dr T]

strength is strength which is always helpful - just don't bulk up or it will only help gravity in her quest to pull you back down to earth

[clgladiator]

I know the theory behind strength training, was just wondering if there were any particular exercises that people used or considered to be beneficial to climbing.

[Dr T]

fair play..
wrist curls, weighted pull ups, hammer protonators about what I do specifically for climbing..
otherways just lots of sets on medium weights... but prob' not as often as I might

[superfurrymonkey]

I noticed a difference to how well I could lock after I started doing overhead tricep curls. Check out this guys other videos he's got good form.

[Richie Crouch]

I love weights

I guess I do a greater number of opposition exercise as opposed to ones designed to replicate climbing actions (targeting the pulling muscles).

I usually do Military press (x15-20) 2 sets; Bench Press (x15-20) 2 sets; Bicep curls (x10) 2 sets; Pec fly's (x10) 2 sets

All of this is part of a rest day (non climbing day) and gets done at the same time as plenty of antagonistic exercises (wrist and shoulder exercise involving theraband, hammers, light weights..etc).

[Nibile]

sorry but i definitely don't agree with the guy in the vid, about the triceps being performes with your arm at 45° angle.
when i do the excercise, i want to have my arm as vertical as i can, because only being vertical i challenge gravity at its maximum.
at a 45° angle the effort on the tricep is less, because you do a smaller range of motion and also because most part of the move happens diagonally, so, while the tricep clearly sustain some effort, alot of effort is also being sustained by the shoulder to keep the arm at 45°, and the shoulder bears also the effort of the horizontal part of the movement.
whichever the excercise, the only way to maximize the effort is to move the weight as vertically as you can, because gravity happens to work vertically.
that's why the weight machines have cables, leverages and tricks that manage to transform the strangest motions into a vertical movement of the weights.
my 2p.

[superfurrymonkey]

  Tried it your way Nibile and It felt more shouldery/uncomfortable to me and not much harder on my triceps but then I'm used to doing them at 45∘ 

[rodma]

I recently read in climb that Steve McClure recommends bicep curls for climbing and more specifically Malham, he also says that many high level climbers and coaches think that weights training would be beneficial for our sport. I'm not intending to jump in the weights room because of this but was wondering if anyone has any experience of weights aiding their climbing and what exercises would be beneficial such as finger rolls, bench press, bicep curls etc.

I used to do a lot of deadlifts, goodmornings, clean and press etc. I stopped doing them mostly becase the clean and press was way too uncomfortable on the wrists.

These kind of excercises have always made me feel really strong on the wall and on rock, especially the deadlifts.

[Nibile]

sorry for before, i didn't participate in a costructive way to the specific topic.
i love weights.
i have often done them at periods, with the 25 reps x 4 sets formula, to avoid bulking up, which is very easy for me.
last summer i did a cycle of two and half months of power oriented weights, arounf 4-5 sets of 4 max reps. i didn't bulk, but my muscular quality was amazing (hours in front of the mirror obviously) and i was feeling very strong on rock even after a summer of non climbing specific training.