[Joe_M]

Hello good people of UKB. I'm a long time lurker in need of some info and opinions.

I've got 3 months off work/studies, starting from the 1st week in July, so I bought myself a van on ebay and now I'm trying to formulate some kind of plan for a road trip. Having lived in the south since I started climbing, I'm not that well travelled in terms of UK rock climbing (crap excuse I know), so thought that I'd try and spend most of my time here in the UK. In fact, I just realised that I've never been north of the Peak District, climbing or not 

So here is the very rough plan that I came up with in about 10 minutes:

Swiss bouldering for 3 or 4 weeks then...
North Wales - Ireland - Southern Scotland - Lake District - Yorkshire Dales - North Yorkshire Moors - Peak - Maybe back down south for DWS depending on time.

I'm going to be with my girlfriend who doesn't climb hard and we're just going to be bouldering and sport climbing. I really want to get some classic route ticks, so I'll definitely be spending some time at LPT and Malham and I want to experience some of Yorkshires fine grit bouldering but other than that I'm open to ideas.

1. Does my suggested route sound like a good idea? Where would you go?

2. Scottish knowledge? Is it safe to stay in my van near Dumbarton? What else is there South of Glasgow?

3. Ireland knowledge? Probably get a ferry to Dublin and from Belfast. Where is the good stuff?

4. Lakes knowledge? Must visit places (including walks)?

5. Yorkshire knowledge? Any hidden gems I won't have heard of?


Also any route/ problem recommendations would be great. And if anyone would be happy to show me round their local crags that would be amazing.

I eagerly await some expert knowledge 

Thank you!

[uptown]

Give us a clue to your standard - that effects venue choice imho.

[SA Chris]

2. Scottish knowledge? Is it safe to stay in my van near Dumbarton? What else is there South of Glasgow?

5. Yorkshire knowledge? Any hidden gems I won't have heard of?

2. It's not safe to do anything near Dumbarton . If you are in the van yuo should be OK. More risky leaving it parked. There are quite a few spots in Dumfries and Galloway - some topos on Scottish Climbs . com that look good, but not been myself.

5. What in Yorkshire do you know of, and we can tell you what you have missed. We don't know what you don't know!

[lagerstarfish]

There's a place in between Calais and Swizerland called Fontainebleau that is worth stopping off at.

[Joe_M]

Give us a clue to your standard - that effects venue choice imho.

Font 7C and French 8a.

I'd like to do my first 8A in Switzerland so any soft touch beta would be good! 

5. What in Yorkshire do you know of, and we can tell you what you have missed. We don't know what you don't know!

Almscliff is definitely on my hit list. Earl Crag looks good too. I guess I'll probably have a week or so in the area. Where would you spend your time?

There's a place in between Calais and Swizerland called Fontainebleau that is worth stopping off at.

Fontaine what?! I've been to font loads of times and want to broaden my horizons somewhat 

I'll certainly be popping in on the way through to finish a few projects. On that subject, L'Arrache Coeur, to knee bar or not to knee bar? I didn't even try to reach the crimp with it in because it seemed miles too far but pics on bleau make it look like that's the way...


Cheers guys!

[uptown]

North Wales - Ireland - Southern Scotland - Lake District - Yorkshire Dales - North Yorkshire Moors - Peak - Maybe back down south for DWS depending on time.

1. Does my suggested route sound like a good idea? Where would you go?
It's a good circuit that.

2. Scottish knowledge? Is it safe to stay in my van near Dumbarton? What else is there South of Glasgow?
Not my zone. SA Chris?

3. Ireland knowledge? Probably get a ferry to Dublin and from Belfast. Where is the good stuff?
Check Dave F's guide to the wicklow mountains - landscape like the Lakes yet very few punters about. The short span

4. Lakes knowledge? Must visit places (including walks)?
Not my zone yet definately a must do.

5. Yorkshire knowledge? Any hidden gems I won't have heard of?
Yep lots, though they're wasted on here. I'll meet up to show you some grit if you like. Malham won't disappoint either.

[webbo]

i wouldn't bother with the north yorks moors unless you are wanting to do trad routes.then it would be raven scar,highcliffe nab and round crag.

[Joe_M]

uptownguru - Excellent link. That's some real good info on Ireland. It's a shame that the problems in the guide above 7A just get P. I'll definitely be be heading to Wicklow though. Do you know if there are any routes in the area? I'll send you a pm in a minute. Would be great to meet up in Yorkshire.

webbo - Cheers for the info. I wasn't really sure about that one!

[chillax]

3. Ireland knowledge? Probably get a ferry to Dublin and from Belfast. Where is the good stuff?
Check Dave F's guide to the wicklow mountains - landscape like the Lakes yet very few punters about. The short span

Second that, the guide is pretty comprehensive of the stuff in Wicklow. If you're looking for sport climbing, you're coming to the wrong country. We've got zilch. Fantastic trad in wicklow, the burren, the mournes and fair head though if you can be swayed? If not then Wicklow's your best bet. Biggest concentration of quality bouldering in the country. But don't forget your midge repellant.

[Joe_M]

Might be persuaded by some easy soloing but I don't even own a trad rack!

Where are the best places in Wicklow? It all looks pretty good in the guide. Problem recommendations?

Cheers

[GCW]

I'd suggest a night stop over in Silverdale would be a good break in your journey to the Lakes, and would give you a day to tick the classic 7a-c problems at Trowbarrow, Woodwell, Warton, Fairy Steps, Farleton etc etc 

Lakes-wise there's lots of class stuff, but there can be a fair bit of travelling.  St Bees, Eskdale (fisherground and upper), Cobble etc  See Greg's site for perusal.

[chillax]

Glendalough is by far the best spot in Wicklow (if not ireland). Top problems would be Andy's Arete, Leftism, everything on the Big Jim boulder, BBE, The Egg SS, Chillax, and The Fin. How many pads do you intend to bring? Worth having at least 2 in Glendalough, lands can get pretty gnarly.

Glenmacnass is brilliant as well, but its a bit of a stroll to get to. Solidarity is the best problem there, but theres plenty of cool stuff to go at. The Rasher boulder is really good.

Mall hill is pretty good, but its very hard to get around and if theres no breeze just forget about it. Midgey hell hole. Livin The Dream is a quality problem there and theres still lots to do.

The smaller areas aren't quite as extensive, but theres some quality. St Kevin's Slab in Glendasan is fun and very photogenic. Away From The Numbers in Lough Bray is great as well. I haven't been everywhere, but theres plenty more cool stuff.

As for the easy soloing, probably best go to Dalkey Quarry for that. Wicklow trad tends to be rather mountainous and t'would be rather committing to solo. Dalkey has some (pretty rubbish) bouldering too. Only go there if you're passing through tbh.

If you're not averse to a bit of walking, theres amazing bouldering high up in the mournes. And the bouldering at fair head is supposed to be pretty good too, though I've never bouldered there. Get your hands on a copy of Underdeveloped, its got videos of most of the best stuff both routes and bouldering.

[SA Chris]

5. What in Yorkshire do you know of, and we can tell you what you have missed. We don't know what you don't know!

Almscliff is definitely on my hit list. Earl Crag looks good too. I guess I'll probably have a week or so in the area. Where would you spend your time?

Caley, Slipstones, Brimham and Crookrise and if it's hot and sunny and you fancy a walk - Lords / Earl / Simon Seats.

Reams of info here http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/index.html

And if you are doing routes, go to Rylstone.

And if you are going up to Glasgow, it would be worth your while coming back via Edinburgh the A1 and sampling Northumberland.

[Bonjoy]

I'd ditch North York Moors and include Northumberland instead if it's bouldering you're looking for.
As you're planning to do sport climbing in various areas of the North i'd suggest buying the rockfax Northern Limestone guide as it covers the best limestone crags in the peak, yorkshire dales and south lakes.

[SA Chris]

Great Minds.

And the Rockfax Northern England would cover you for crags in Yorkshire, Northumberland and N Yorks Moors.

[Joe_M]

Lakes-wise there's lots of class stuff, but there can be a fair bit of travelling.  St Bees, Eskdale (fisherground and upper), Cobble etc  See Greg's site for perusal.

Another great website. That's the Lakes sorted then.

Chillax - Nice one. I'll print out that list of problems and take it with me.

Good idea re. Northumberland. It looks awesome in pictures. Is there a Northumberland website or guide book you could recommend?

I've got Rockfax Northern Limestone, I just need to prioritise the crags now...

This trip started off as a way of doing loads of routes and finally getting some stamina. I can see the way it's heading now, a 3 month bouldering trip with the odd route thrown in here and there I guess I'll just have to make an effort not spend ALL my time bouldering like I usually do!

[magpie]

I think if you are going to come all the way up to Glasgow you'd be as well going a few hours futher north too, it would open up a whole range of stuff for you, I don't think you'd see the best of Scotland, or even that much of it really, if you only came as far north as Glasgow.

You'd be fine in the van at Dumby, but if you were happy to drive for an extra 20/30 minutes you could actually park somewhere quite scenic for the night.

[north_country_boy]

I've got Rockfax Northern Limestone, I just need to prioritise the crags now...

The Big three, Malham, Kilnsey, Gordale in Yorkshire.

LPT in N.Wales

[Joe_M]

I'd love to see more of Scotland but I'm just concerned that I might be trying to pack too much in to 11 weeks. Ideally I'd just spend the 11 weeks in the UK but I really want to get to Switzerland and to make it worthwhile in fuel money, I want to spend at least a few weeks there. Any thoughts as to whether I'm trying to get too much squeezed in?

The Big three, Malham, Kilnsey, Gordale in Yorkshire.

LPT in N.Wales

That's what I had in mind. Quality not quantity. If I can spend a bit of time at each then that would be ideal. Statement of Youth is top of the hit list.

[SA Chris]

Good idea re. Northumberland. It looks awesome in pictures. Is there a Northumberland website or guide book you could recommend?

http://www.thenmc.org.uk/pages/guide/ has a bit of info, as does http://www.northumberlandbouldering.co.uk/ (although it appears a bit fooked like atm)

But the new bouldering guide is ace http://www.climbnewcastle.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=28&products_id=30

Are you trying to cram too much in? Probably, but as you are totally flexible you can go as the whim takes you and not feel like you have to tick everywhere, just go as the conditions and desires take you, essentil for any roadtrip.

[Dave Flanagan]

uptownguru - Excellent link. That's some real good info on Ireland. It's a shame that the problems in the guide above 7A just get P. I'll definitely be be heading to Wicklow though.

Joe how did you get on in Ireland?

I think there was some confusion from your reading of the guide, on the second page I say "Projects are counted as > 7a." I meant this in reference to the table above it that showed the total number of problems in each area by difficulty ie. I assumed unclimbinged problems are hard. Maybe this is ambigous I will change it.