[Pantontino]

First female ascent. Ray was there this afternoon when it happened:

http://dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=206&ngroup=2

[Paul B]

Another good effort...

Although for most taller climbers it is considered a relative soft touch for the grade, the reverse is true for those lacking the necessary reach on the crux pull to the pocket.

never heard that though 

[Houdini]

First female ascent. Ray was there ...

Uncanny 

[superfurrymonkey]

Another good effort...

Although for most taller climbers it is considered a relative soft touch for the grade, the reverse is true for those lacking the necessary reach on the crux pull to the pocket.

never heard that though 

Watching Shauna Cox if that's how you spell her name? on this today and she was doing the crux move almost static with some high foot work!

[Slide]

Unstoppable Mina.  Keep up the good work

[north_country_boy]

Good Tick! All the Classics are falling.....   

[T_B]

Another good effort...

Although for most taller climbers it is considered a relative soft touch for the grade, the reverse is true for those lacking the necessary reach on the crux pull to the pocket.

never heard that though 

Agree.  I'm surprised the crux is any more difficult for someone short than Rockatrocity or Berezina.  I seem to remember getting the pocket is fine if you're a lanky git like me, but sucking up the swing is tricky.

Whereas I saw Mina on Berezina in Font and from what I could work out the only issue for her was the reach.  Anyway, fine effort - she's obviously targeting the classics at the grade, whatever style.

[Pantontino]

Of course the crux of Jerry's is harder for shorter folk - I'm amazed anybody would question this! It's a long way to that pocket from the pinch, and even if you can work your feet in to a high position and do it static, you've still got to get your feet there and that will be tiring. The swing is the normal point of failure, but that will be much harder to hold for a shorter climber spanned out and that's after landing in the pocket in a much more dynamic fashion. If Tom, Paul etc were right it would have had a female ascent a long time ago. Over the years I've seen a succession of shorter climbers tussling on this move; the only ones who cruise it are operating with their grade.

Rock Atrocity suits people with skinny fingers; most women have thinner fingers than men, thus, despite this being consider a very hard (and possibly V10/7C+) tick by most fat fingered men it got its first female ascent two years before Jerry's.

[T_B]

Fair dinkum. I guess it is a bit surprising that it hadn't had a female ascent. Tis one of the few decent problems in N Wales as well 

P.S. whilst I'm here Simon - can you put Sex Lobster up to E4 in the next edition of Gogarth North. Someone is gonna get hurt!

[Houdini]

Sex Lobster, probably the greatest route-name in the world ... 

Named after a infamously well-hung Deiniolen drug-dealing Irishman, alas, now dead   

[Paul B]

Of course the crux of Jerry's is harder for shorter folk - I'm amazed anybody would question this! It's a long way to that pocket from the pinch, and even if you can work your feet in to a high position and do it static, you've still got to get your feet there and that will be tiring. The swing is the normal point of failure, but that will be much harder to hold for a shorter climber spanned out and that's after landing in the pocket in a much more dynamic fashion. If Tom, Paul etc were right it would have had a female ascent a long time ago. Over the years I've seen a succession of shorter climbers tussling on this move; the only ones who cruise it are operating with their grade.

Rock Atrocity suits people with skinny fingers; most women have thinner fingers than men, thus, despite this being consider a very hard (and possibly V10/7C+) tick by most fat fingered men it got its first female ascent two years before Jerry's.

I don't want to detract from that main subject (beastly effort) but I think getting into debates on morpoholgies is absolutely daft, some things are easier for the short, some for the tall. Unless its obviously a morhpo problem (such as a dyno) does it really warrant any comment? This seems to be happening increasingly in news reports and its just unnecessary. Surely people can look at the meat of the article and appreciate it without the added commentary.

[Pantontino]

Of course the crux of Jerry's is harder for shorter folk - I'm amazed anybody would question this! It's a long way to that pocket from the pinch, and even if you can work your feet in to a high position and do it static, you've still got to get your feet there and that will be tiring. The swing is the normal point of failure, but that will be much harder to hold for a shorter climber spanned out and that's after landing in the pocket in a much more dynamic fashion. If Tom, Paul etc were right it would have had a female ascent a long time ago. Over the years I've seen a succession of shorter climbers tussling on this move; the only ones who cruise it are operating with their grade.

Rock Atrocity suits people with skinny fingers; most women have thinner fingers than men, thus, despite this being consider a very hard (and possibly V10/7C+) tick by most fat fingered men it got its first female ascent two years before Jerry's.

I don't want to detract from that main subject (beastly effort) but I think getting into debates on morpoholgies is absolutely daft, some things are easier for the short, some for the tall. Unless its obviously a morhpo problem (such as a dyno) does it really warrant any comment? This seems to be happening increasingly in news reports and its just unnecessary. Surely people can look at the meat of the article and appreciate it without the added commentary.

I thought it did merit comment as it helped to explain why it took longer for JR to get a female ascent than RA. Hardly a controversial or distracting editorial stance is it? 

[T_B]

Sex Lobster, probably the greatest route-name in the world ... 

What, better than Bored Daughter Meets the Powerbulge Boys? 

[Tommy]

P.S. whilst I'm here Simon - can you put Sex Lobster up to E4 in the next edition of Gogarth North. Someone is gonna get hurt!

Second this - way harder and more dangerous than Supercrack or Wonderwall. Way off E3 I thought.

[superfurrymonkey]

Sex Lobster, probably the greatest route-name in the world ... 

Named after a infamously well-hung Deiniolen drug-dealing Irishman, alas, now dead   

Colin?

[Doylo]

Sex Lobster, probably the greatest route-name in the world ... 

What, better than Bored Daughter Meets the Powerbulge Boys? 

and what about Rodney God and The Oral Twins?

Nice one Mina.

[Houdini]

Colin?

Yes.

Those other names are try-too-hard toss; maybe one day, when Sex Lobster is long forgotten will they be one half of one percent as funny ...  But I doubt that.

[superfurrymonkey]

I didn't see Shauna struggling to get her feet high and considering she had the problem done in two halves in no time and on her first acquaintance I don't think her height was really an issue and anyway I've heard tall people complaining that it's harder to hold the swing if you do the move static because they have long legs or some shit  ! 

[Richie Crouch]

I thought Jerry's was miles easier than RA (obviously I am a lanky coont with a big span and weak fingers  )

Good effort though and I'm sure Shauna will be in for the 2nd FA in no time if she can get an extension on her holidays 

[superfurrymonkey]

I thought Jerry's was miles easier than RA (obviously I am a lanky coont with a big span and weak fingers  )

Good effort though and I'm sure Shauna will be in for the 2nd FA in no time if she can get an extension on her holidays 

Weak finger my arse 

[RichK]

P.S. whilst I'm here Simon - can you put Sex Lobster up to E4 in the next edition of Gogarth North. Someone is gonna get hurt!

I'll second that Tom...... had a right gibberey moment on it earlier in the year,  convinced the cams in the overlap would not hold a fall. You would hit the deck from a long way up!

[Jameshs]

Nice one