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Last Minute Trip (Read 73726 times)

robertostallioni

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#100 Re: Last Minute Trip
August 03, 2009, 08:32:19 pm
Think the crag opposite the parking for AD/slimline has some high 6's/low sevens that are worthwhile. Slimline is pure class, taking the opposing arse cheek to AD. A must. Not digit friendly though, easier in low temps/evenings obviously.

Nibile

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#101 Re: Last Minute Trip
August 10, 2009, 02:35:33 pm
paul, only now i noticed that you included "tetto di sarre" on your ticklist. well, don't go there. it's horrible. the only notable thing is that it features an 8b by jacky godoffe himself.
another horrible place you may want to avoid is erto. the routes are polished up to 8b and the setting is very depressing. the ice cream in longarone is well good though.

Paul B

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#102 Re: Last Minute Trip
August 11, 2009, 10:30:08 am
cheers nibs... that was a joke entry from Jingo Wobbly

Paul B

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#103 Re: Last Minute Trip
August 23, 2009, 05:09:01 pm
ok so we've been frankenjura, Labak, frankenjura and now we're in the Pfalz...

Nats coming around to the idea of more than one rope length so I was hoping somebody could help me out with a few good easy mp recommendations in the Verdon?

Thanks as always.

 :great:

Paul B

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#104 Re: Last Minute Trip
September 02, 2009, 03:14:55 pm
*bump* :shrug:

SA Chris

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#105 Re: Last Minute Trip
September 02, 2009, 03:15:49 pm
How easy does nat regard as easy?

Johnny Brown

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#106 Re: Last Minute Trip
September 02, 2009, 03:25:00 pm
I haven't done anything there, but its never had a rep as a good gentle intro to multi-pitch. See the near-death thread...

Paul B

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#107 Re: Last Minute Trip
September 02, 2009, 03:31:31 pm
link JB, the battery is low...

6a should be fine.

dave

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#108 Re: Last Minute Trip
September 02, 2009, 03:32:13 pm
unluckiestmanalive + multipitchvirgin  + verdon = nobody gets out of here alive.

I'd dial 99 and keep your finger hovering over the 9 key.

Paul B

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#109 Re: Last Minute Trip
September 02, 2009, 03:33:48 pm
I've been running it out in the Czech (for a day) and enjoying the generous bolting of the Pfalz unscathed...

dave

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#110 Re: Last Minute Trip
September 02, 2009, 03:43:59 pm
shit, sounds like you're overdue some bad luck then - run for cover!

Jaspersharpe

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#111 Re: Last Minute Trip
September 02, 2009, 03:45:59 pm
JB was on about this. However, fatdoc did say that they basically didn't have a clue what they were doing.

Paul B

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#112 Re: Last Minute Trip
September 02, 2009, 03:47:12 pm
shit, sounds like you're overdue some bad luck then - run for cover!

what like an Austrian VW workshop fixing something that wasn't broken for the price of nigh on 800 Euro's?

Paul B

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#113 Re: Last Minute Trip
September 02, 2009, 03:52:42 pm
JB was on about this. However, fatdoc did say that they basically didn't have a clue what they were doing.

Jesus!

SA Chris

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#114 Re: Last Minute Trip
September 02, 2009, 04:38:33 pm
Somehwere like Ailefroide or Orpierre might be a friendlier intro to multipitching. Don't recall there is much at Verdon that doesn't involve abbing in from the top above 500m or so of drop at that grade.

Stubbs

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#115 Re: Last Minute Trip
September 02, 2009, 04:45:48 pm
Orpierre has a few good looking easy multi pitch climbs, we did one called Voyage which climbed up a big corner on the Quillion, think it was 5c,5b,5c,6a, well bolted with an easy ab descent (easier with 70m rope or 2 35's).  It's crazy hot there though at the moment though, so you have to get on most of the Quillion multi pitch climbs early and get finished by 12 or 1 before the sun comes round.  Quite good conditions on the Chateau (single pitch) routes in the afternoon/evening.

Jaspersharpe

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#116 Re: Last Minute Trip
September 02, 2009, 04:46:49 pm
Multipitch stuff at Buoux too. A lot less intimidating than Verdon but maybe not at 6a.

Bonjoy

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#117 Re: Last Minute Trip
September 02, 2009, 06:01:30 pm
Gorges Du Jonte, which is very close to and easily combined with Gorges Du Tarn, looks like a great place for multipitch of all grades.

205Chris

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#118 Re: Last Minute Trip
September 02, 2009, 06:06:23 pm
Gorges Du Jonte, which is very close to and easily combined with Gorges Du Tarn, looks like a great place for multipitch of all grades.

Agreed, spent a day there on a recent trip to the Tarn, easy walk in and some great looking multi-pitch routes.

SA Chris

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#119 Re: Last Minute Trip
September 03, 2009, 11:34:27 am
It's crazy hot there though at the moment though

Is it hotter than Verdon? I climbed did La Demande in July the year after I left SA with an Aussie mate, and we both had fat tongues and blurry vision from dehydration by the end.

north_country_boy

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#120 Re: Last Minute Trip
September 03, 2009, 11:51:40 am
Gorges Du Jonte, which is very close to and easily combined with Gorges Du Tarn, looks like a great place for multipitch of all grades.

I'd agree with Bonjoy, Gorge Du Jonte looked good for Multipitch stuff, and maybe be better temps to avoid getting restricted by time etc....

The stuff at Orpierre is also worth getting up early for a route or two....

Check out St Leger en route to Gorge du Tarn or after Orpierre...

Paul B

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#121 Re: Last Minute Trip
September 03, 2009, 06:14:37 pm
Thanks for the recommendations...

Dan - St Leger is on the list but it'll have to be later on, meeting family in a week or so, so can't cram too much in before that.


Paul B

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#122 Re: Last Minute Trip
September 05, 2009, 05:43:09 pm
current location is the Verdon... we needed to buy some more gear...

11-2?

 :jaw:

lagerstarfish

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#123 Re: Last Minute Trip
September 05, 2009, 09:44:57 pm
112

That'll get you through to the emergency services - good bit of forward planning there Lucky Paul.

 ;)

dave

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#124 Re: Last Minute Trip
September 05, 2009, 10:06:26 pm
I'd be assigning that to all vacant speeddial numbers.

 

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