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The Cliff tomorrow evening (Read 6154 times)

tommytwotone

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The Cliff tomorrow evening
June 02, 2009, 07:20:23 pm
Peace up, I'm off to A-Town after work tomorrow for the first time ever (shameful I know). If anyone's keen and fancies a spotter / showing me the numbers, hit me on the PM.




SA Chris

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#1 Re: The Cliff tomorrow evening
June 03, 2009, 08:01:32 am
Savour it, she will become your mistress cruel but fair.

Johnny Brown

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#2 Re: The Cliff tomorrow evening
June 03, 2009, 09:48:34 am
A true local's crag if ever there was one. The better you get to know it, the better it gets.

uptown

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#3 Re: The Cliff tomorrow evening
June 03, 2009, 11:04:52 am
Peace up, I'm off to A-Town after work tomorrow for the first time ever (shameful I know).

No shame in that - many people save the best 'til last.  :)
You won't be disappointed either mr tt, should be great nick tonight - it's bloody cold at utt right now.
Anyone with an opportunity should be hitting the hills, not the dales today.
I'd meet up if I could yet I'll be passing you on the white arrow south for some eastern grittage instead.
You need any recommendations?
Enjoy.

GCW

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#4 Re: The Cliff tomorrow evening
June 03, 2009, 11:28:23 am
Are you allowed out nowadays?

tommytwotone

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#5 Re: The Cliff tomorrow evening
June 03, 2009, 12:34:22 pm
Peace up, I'm off to A-Town after work tomorrow for the first time ever (shameful I know).

No shame in that - many people save the best 'til last.  :)
You won't be disappointed either mr tt, should be great nick tonight - it's bloody cold at utt right now.
Anyone with an opportunity should be hitting the hills, not the dales today.
I'd meet up if I could yet I'll be passing you on the white arrow south for some eastern grittage instead.
You need any recommendations?
Enjoy.

I'm hoping for good conditions - been keeping a close eye on the forecast hoping for a break in the heat to fully appreciate my first trip there.

As for recommendations, all welcome - interested in owt up to and around Font 7a!



SA Chris

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#6 Re: The Cliff tomorrow evening
June 03, 2009, 12:38:34 pm
You are gonna be like a kid in a sweetie shop. Even in hot weather, stuff like Morrel's is cool and shady and not very friction dependant. Not sure how i would approach a first ever visit, bite off tiny bits at a time and savour them, or just  be like "hoffing a cream cake whole".

tomtom

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#7 Re: The Cliff tomorrow evening
June 03, 2009, 12:52:57 pm

I'm hoping for good conditions - been keeping a close eye on the forecast hoping for a break in the heat to fully appreciate my first trip there.

As for recommendations, all welcome - interested in owt up to and around Font 7a!


When I go I normally start low - first group of boulders you come to on the right.. Warm up on a wide open slab opposite flying arete, then three swings traverse etc.. Morells wall, Good V2/3 on in the middle on the field side (if its not been sunny), couple of good v2/3's above 3 swings traverse.. then flying arete V4 (classic) if you've got a spotter or feeling brave...

Then could saunter across to the Virgin boulder.. Gypsy (hard V3), try the virgin traverse..? If your arms are still alive theres Sloper patrol... Also a nice V4 immediately to the left of the Keel..  Good V5 traverse on crimps/heels on the block to the Right of the Keel boulder that is in the shade most of the day... 

THEN.... theres all the stuff around by the egg/matterhorn...

but if there is any skin left on your fingers I would saunter up to the Demon wall roof area...

High traverse (warm up) along the break from below the crucifix to the wall (c.v3), the crucifix itself (v1), crucifix arete (v3 - I find it really wanky..). Moving up the grades in that area, Dolphin belly slap (6c+) or the great low crucifix traverse using that lovely 2 finger pocket (7a) and then have a hopeful play on demon wall roof (7a+)...

That should do for starters!! Thats just my kind of circuit/list of things I normally try/play on... Theres oodles more there to try/enjoy - the above is just where I seem to always gravitate towards!! DWR area gets the sun all day so can be a bit warm.. but looks like it'll be good tonight...

I'll probably be over there tomorrow eve if you're out then or dont go today for some reason..
T

PS.. The cliff is almost like a moody creature.. sometimes you can cruise everything - and other times it beasts you.. just spits you off everything! I love it  :)

nai

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#8 Re: The Cliff tomorrow evening
June 03, 2009, 03:10:11 pm
Pointing a shorty at DWR is a bit cruel, I only got that this year after first trying it 13 years ago, and I had to employ that awful heel/toe cam rather than use the nice toe hook sequence.

ttt, wait for a local with the heel cam beta before trying that, it's a right pigdog.  DBS just right is miles easier and ok for shorties.

It's a fantastic place to have as a local, to start with you may as well behave like a tourist and soak up the classics then over time dig into the obscurities and eliminates and you will learn to love the place.



tomtom

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#9 Re: The Cliff tomorrow evening
June 03, 2009, 03:12:34 pm
Pointing a shorty at DWR is a bit cruel, I only got that this year after first trying it 13 years ago, and I had to employ that awful heel/toe cam rather than use the nice toe hook sequence.

I did say have a hopeful play  ;) Though you have a fair point, most of my selection are possibly biased by my lank!!... Belly Slaps magic though! T

nai

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#10 Re: The Cliff tomorrow evening
June 03, 2009, 03:24:47 pm
Sorry I (mis)read it as "hopefully play".  A hopeful play is quite apt.

But no mention of Pebble Wall while around DWR?  That has to be on any first timer's tick list shirley.

tomtom

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#11 Re: The Cliff tomorrow evening
June 03, 2009, 03:55:15 pm
But no mention of Pebble Wall while around DWR?  That has to be on any first timer's tick list shirley.

Aye, a fine introduction!!  ;)

nai

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#12 Re: The Cliff tomorrow evening
June 03, 2009, 04:05:44 pm
 :whistle:

tommytwotone

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#13 Re: The Cliff tomorrow evening
June 03, 2009, 10:35:17 pm
Bo - just got back...what a place. Think I could have spent this evening just looking around without ever putting my boots on, it was lovely out.

Did loads, and I can report that your comments about getting spanked were right, plus I've lost a bit of strength / feel over the last three weeks off!

To be honest I found the Rockfax guide pretty hard going so just wandered around doing stuff that looked good. I did bags of easy stuff on the lower tier, and then went up to the crag and did The Crucifix and (eventually - you're right about fiddly!) Crucifix Arete.

Oh, and tried Pebble Wall, brilliant! Got stood in the break but couldn't summon up the balls / skill to push on but that's a tick on the list straight off.

Think it's safe to say I'm sold - and I made it home in 25 mins amid a beautiful sunset. All in all, not a bad evening!


uptown

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#14 Re: The Cliff tomorrow evening
June 03, 2009, 10:51:21 pm
and I made it home in 25 mins amid a beautiful sunset.

So you're not S8 anymore? I wouldn't have passed you on the white arrow after all.

tommytwotone

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#15 Re: The Cliff tomorrow evening
June 03, 2009, 10:56:56 pm
Hell no - I'm representing YO26 now, got a new job so it's all change.

Actually that's not strictly true - the truth is Sheffield wasn't Yorkshire enough for me so I went to the source. It's brilliant - I havent bought a pint for anyone for two weeks!

HONK HONK!

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#16 Re: The Cliff tomorrow evening
June 03, 2009, 11:00:28 pm
Good work triple T, the start of a long obsession I promise!  plenty of UKB members with very extensive lists of 'cliff ascents, uptown not least amongst them! Look forward to catchin up with you there at some point.

SA Chris

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#17 Re: The Cliff tomorrow evening
June 04, 2009, 08:42:04 am
YO
HOMIE!

Sweet. And you still have Caley, Earl, Brimham, Lord's / Earl / Simon's Seats, Slipstones, Ilkley etc etc to explore.

andy_e

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#18 Re: The Cliff tomorrow evening
July 17, 2009, 05:04:01 pm
Don't forget Hetchell  ;)

a dense loner

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#19 Re: The Cliff tomorrow evening
July 18, 2009, 10:40:40 pm
yorkshire climbing, thats funny :lol:

webbo

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#20 Re: The Cliff tomorrow evening
July 19, 2009, 09:13:44 pm
yeah like wimberry.turn your back and its in another county.

 

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