[nik at work]

Am I dreaming this or was there a topo for these places (and a couple of other bits in the area) knocking about?
R-mans creations I think?
I've had a search but only found a dead link. Anyone got any knowledge?

[dave]

I think there's some topos on old threads with most of the beginners wall stuff on. there's also r-mans low cave thing down and left of here.

[r-man]

Yeah, I did make a pdf topo, and yes the link is dead. At the moment the relevant hard drive is out of action, so I can't recover it. Perhaps someone else will have a copy.

Dave, I think that low cave thing might have been rendered unclimbable by a beardy caver. I had a look last year and he was busy excavating a tunnel to the right, and building a wall in the low cave with the removed rock. Seemed like he was having fun though, so I left him to it.

[dave]

on the other hand he may have just created you a potentially longer lower problem. when a door closes a window opens etc.

[r-man]

In case you can't find a topo, here are the problems. Hope this is readable, I'm just copy and pasting.

Beginner's Wall

7a     A Bit on the Side     From the same start as Recreational Violence, move out left for good holds, then back right to the same finish.
8a (soft)    Recreational Violence LH    Take the crimp with right hand and go left to another, then go to the top. Stay right of the good holds.
8a+    Recreational Violence    Climb the grey streak, using a right hand undercut and left hand crimp to dyno directly upwards for the slopey jugs.       
8a+    Recreational Violence RH    Gain the Recreational Violence Crimp with left hand, then make a very long span rightwards to the poor hold just shy of the groove. From here, slap left hand to holds above.       
7a    Short Problem    From sitting, climb to the left end of the juggy ledge.       
7b    Man of Steel    From the large ledge, climb up to the spikey jug, staying right of the crack.       
7a+ (soft)    Swing Time    Start as for Man of Steel, then out right to the sidepull jug, then back left to the same finish.       
7b    It's a Traversty    Swing Time into Neil's Wall.       
7c+    Advanced Training    Sitstart on tight pockets beneath and slightly right of the middle hold on the traverse of Swing Time (from which the slopey spike is reached on man of steel). Pull up to a shallow vertical slot with a crimp above it, then to that middle hold on Swing Time. Finish as for Man of Steel.       
7c+    Mike's Problem    Pull on with crappy crimps and lurch for the Swing Time spike.       
7b+    Neil's Wall    From opposing crimp/gastons, slap the jug, then continue upwards to a tricky match on the slopey ledge.       
7c    Neil's Wall Sitstart          
6b    Groove    Climb the groove on the far right, to a jug.

Beginner's Wall low cave

7a+     Hall of the Mountain King     Start on the left wall at a mono and jug. Easy moves lead to undercuts, a perfect handjam, and a tricky exit to jugs up and left.

Sean's Roof - roadside wall

6b     Jugs     From the juggy ledge further left, climb to the break.         
7a+    Free Range Abattoir    From the slopey ledge, power upwards to a fingery finish.       
7b    Red or Dead    From the slopey ledge, move right to a pocket, then continue up.       
7b+    Free Range Abbattoir Lower Start    From the break under the roof of the cave, move left into the start of Free Range Abbottoir.       
7c    Any Hole's A Goal    From the break under the roof of the cave, climb straight up into Red or Dead, using small holds.       
7b    Deranged Abbott    From the low flat hold on the right, traverse into Free Range Abbottoir.       
7b+    Top Shop High    From the low flat hold on the right, traverse into ROD. Same crimp with lh, then up with rh.       
7b+    Top Shop Middle    From the low flat hold on the right, traverse into ROD. Gain crimp above twin pockets with rh, then left and up.       
7b+    Top Shop Low    From the low flat hold on the right, traverse into ROD. Follow pockets to the big crimp, continue as for Red Or Dead.
7a+    Jerry's Traverse    On the right hand side of the crag, from jugs traverse right on excellent holds. Finish pulling up to the massive jug.
7a+    Jerry's Traverse Reverse    On the right hand side of the crag, from jugs traverse left on excellent holds.

Sean's roof itself

7c (soft)     Paint It Black     The steep prow that forms the left edge of Sean's Roof. (left of the obvious cleaned crimps). From a low sit start on the horizontal rail (No cheeky crouching starts) work directly up the prow on crozzley crimps to the slopey break, then use undercuts in the crack to reach over the capping roof to a finishing hold on the edge (dug out) of the grass at the top. Slow drying.         
8a+    Sean's Roof    Follow the line of bolts through the left side of the roof.

Andy's roof (Walk down from Sean's roof and then up the bank on the same side of the road. )

6a     Roof Left     Use jugs.         
7b+    Back in Black    The centre of the roof, from jugs at the back reaching into flake holds then blocky holds just under the lip by bridging on the plinth to the right. Cut loose and do a couple of fun moves to turn the lip, then pull up jugs to tickle the tree above.

[nik at work]

Cheers.
Just one last question. Is Seans grade Sport or Font, and what is its corresponding sport/Font grade?

[r-man]

Font. Sport grade is 8b+/8c I think.

[abarro81]

I've got that pdf on my computer, think I downloaded it speculatively as I've still never been there. I don't use flikr or anything so no idea how to load it up anywhere. If you PM me with an email address I can send it.

[slackline]

I've got that pdf on my computer, think I downloaded it speculatively as I've still never been there. I don't use flikr or anything so no idea how to load it up anywhere. If you PM me with an email address I can send it.

Couldn't upload PDF's to flickr anyway, its images and video only.

Probably best solution is to stick it up on the Vimeo UKBouldering Files section.

If you don't have an account and don't want to register for one you can send it to me (PM for email address) and I'll register with Vimeo and stick it up or try throwing in the direction of someone already registered (GCW, Lagers etc/).

[richdraws]

I was trying It's a Traversty today, but I am clearly a beta dunce. From the ground my sequences were shit. Climbing into it then trying it I struggled to see what I should be doing. In retrospect I am thinking maybe I should be crossing over to the juggy sidepull on beginners with my left? Help me out motherfuckers.

Love Rich

[dave]

traversty doesn't share any ground with beginners bar the very start, so can't picture what hold you mean......however, you basically do the first 2 moves as per the other problem/s to get to you the juggy flake jug thing (the easy problem then goes straight up from here). this should be big enough to match on no problems. then go right hand into the big comfy backhand semi-sloping hold over right (this hold is on neil's wall). then set left foot up on a smear, go left hand up above you to not-great sidepull (sometimes wet), then balance/push out of this position to the far slot over right - then finish matched on the shite "ledge" thing above - look for the positive bit to bite on the left. hope this makes sense.

[Andy B]

I took a slightly higher line at the end so that the only holds shared with Neil's Wall were the finishing holds. I went from either the thin sidepull, or the hollow looking good crimp just left (I may have done it both ways as I've done the problem a few times), straight to the spike on the lip of the finishing "ledge" with my right hand, which made matching easier than on Neil's.

[richdraws]

Yeah that makes sense Dave, the sidepull looked untouched so I didn't consider it long. Will try again like that. Not sure I could reach from the hollow crimp to the finish...

[a dense loner]

have you and dobbin finished saying night night to each other now then rich?

[richdraws]

I don't see how my attempted sexual liasons are any of your business baldy. x

[JC]

there's also r-mans low cave thing down and left of here.

Is this when you walk down the road a bit past Beginner's, then hop over the wall to the left??

I had a look at it today, that problem looks pretty good. What grade is it?

Is there a list of the problems on there? There seems to be a 1 bolt micro route on there as well?   

[GCW]

The Vimeo upload page is playing up at present, I'll get it sorted soon.
If anyone wants the guid drop me (or R-Man) a PM with your e-mail address.

[cofe]

there's also r-mans low cave thing down and left of here.

Is this when you walk down the road a bit past Beginner's, then hop over the wall to the left??

I had a look at it today, that problem looks pretty good. What grade is it?

Is there a list of the problems on there? There seems to be a 1 bolt micro route on there as well?  

thing over the road and fence (i.e. not wall?) is mutton bustin' - 7b+/8a i think (someone will correct me). r-man's thing is on same side of road as beginners but further down i think.

[GCW]

The Vimeo upload page is playing up at present, I'll get it sorted soon.
If anyone wants the guid drop me (or R-Man) a PM with your e-mail address.

Weird- Vimeo doesn't like R-Man's guide for some reason.  It uploaded when I zipped the pdf, but not with the pdf itself.  I've extracted the pdf to images and then put them back into a pdf and now it works.

I only say all this so someone can tell me why.  The bottom line is that it should work now.  If not, drop me a line.

[dave]

All the stuff over the road (i.e. anything you're crossing a fence to get to) at blackwelldale is dodgy access, i.e. there is no access. Hence why there's a dirth of info online and its a bit low key. Exercise discretion.

[Jaspersharpe]

I thought the consensus was 7C for Neil's Wall and 7C+ for the sitter? Must admit I've only had one quick go on it in shocking conditions but 7B+ seems harsh.

[dave]

the consensus is I can't do 7c+ in a couple of goes,. I recon with the best beta its 7b+ for the sitter, and 7b for the stander.

[cofe]

the consensus is I can't do 7c+ in a couple of goes,. I recon with the best beta its 7b+ for the sitter, and 7b for the stander.

sadly i agree with this grade knowledge. although i'd like to think i might one day climb 7c+, or indeed 7c in a go or two. don't backhand the RH hold, pinch it and float through with low feet*. dave's pic:



*i'm not massive.

[Jaspersharpe]

Aha. Thought it might be a beta thing since plenty of strong chaps have it as 7C & 7C+ on their 8a.fuck cards.

[fashionguru]

Just add my 2 peneth for what its worth.

I Cant F***ing do this sequence and find it loads harder than the original way.

For me 7c / 7c+ is fair.

Not Everyone can jump and dyno but understand its the easier sequence that counts for grades.

Anyway its still f****** desperate for the grade come on its getting stupid out there.

T