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All The Eights (Read 4359 times)

Adam Lincoln

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All The Eights
June 02, 2009, 10:31:42 am
Not everyones idea of a challenge, and this has been discussed before, but has anyone done it, or is within 1 of doing it. I am guessing so.

Andy Cave?
Stevie Haston?
Leo?

I agree the level of difficulty does vary slightly, and the money side of things for the 8000m peak.

Font 8a
Fr 8a
E8
M8
V|||
8000 Metre Peak

SA Chris

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#1 Re: All The Eights
June 02, 2009, 10:35:05 am
Dave Macleod. Apart from the expensive plod.

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#2 Re: All The Eights
June 02, 2009, 10:47:43 am
Alex Huber?

He's done the 8000m peak and the rock climbing grades (or the equivalent in the case of the E8). Don't know about the M8 and VIII.

dave

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#3 Re: All The Eights
June 02, 2009, 10:50:01 am
looks a bit piss to me, what about lifting the bar a bit higher?

Font 9a
F9a
E9
M9
IX
9000 Metre Peak

nik at work

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#4 Re: All The Eights
June 02, 2009, 10:53:53 am
How hard are M8 and VIII?

I have no idea but I get the impression they are significantly easier than E/Font/Fr 8's.

Wasn't this discussed at length on UKC fairly recently? I seem to remember that conclusions were:
Font 8A was the hardest (unless you insist on an onsight for E8)
8000m was a bit silly as it was as much a financial acheivement as anything else.

I seem to remember lots of names being thrown around but very little by way of facts.



dave

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#5 Re: All The Eights
June 02, 2009, 10:56:15 am
I think M8 is probably one of the easiest. A mate of mine went to canada to live one winter a few years ago, he was probably an E5 leader at the time and did some alpine/winter stuff to, and knocked off some M9 route which he didn't recon was too hard. its basically just doing pullups on jugs afterall.

nik at work

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#6 Re: All The Eights
June 02, 2009, 11:02:48 am
I'm liking your 9's idea Dave. Surely someone can build a 152m tall climbing wall on the top of Everest?

Adam Lincoln

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#7 Re: All The Eights
June 02, 2009, 11:05:16 am
So in difficulty order.

M8
E8
V111
8000 metre
Frennch 8a
Font 8a

?

T_B

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#8 Re: All The Eights
June 02, 2009, 11:14:32 am
So in difficulty order.

M8
E8
V111
8000 metre
Frennch 8a
Font 8a

?

Depends what your background is. If you give me lanking the final move of Staminaband, I'll take Font 8a. Done E8, F8a and have been to 6600m, plus carried exceedingly large pack to summit of Denali last year, which in physical terms is close to 8000m with 02 and sherpas (so they say). M8 is pretty easy if you can be a*sed, dunno about Scottish VIII and F8a. Folk who have redpointed no harder than F7b+ have done a fair few Scottish VIIIs, but having only seconded VIII I would say you need to have built up a fair bit of scottish experience to get on the sharp end. To be fair, trying to compare 8000m and F8a is plain daft.

Don't think Stevie has been to 8000m, Cavey hasn't done Font 8a and I doubt Leo has led Scottish VIII. It's up for grabs!!

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#9 Re: All The Eights
June 02, 2009, 11:15:24 am
The E-thing should really be onsight shouldn't it.

Johnny Brown

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#10 Re: All The Eights
June 02, 2009, 11:19:14 am
Has Cavey been to 8000m?

Agree with Tom, Scottish VIII may not be desperate on paper but its going to require a decent investment of time.

I thought that with latitude, the pressure altitude on Denali was equally low as 8000m in the Himalaya, never mind sherpas and 02?

nik at work

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#11 Re: All The Eights
June 02, 2009, 11:20:32 am
The E-thing should really be onsight shouldn't it.

Anyone seen an open can of worms round here?

Will Hunt

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#12 Re: All The Eights
June 02, 2009, 11:21:25 am
V111

That's Font 20,000, thank you  :spank:

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#13 Re: All The Eights
June 02, 2009, 11:23:09 am
Has Cavey been to 8000m?

Agree with Tom, Scottish VIII may not be desperate on paper but its going to require a decent investment of time.

I thought that with latitude, the pressure altitude on Denali was equally low as 8000m in the Himalaya, never mind sherpas and 02?

Andy's summited Shishapangma.

Yes, some (including me) reckon Denali feels higher cos of the lower atmospheric pressure being so far north, the oxygen isn't forced into your lungs as easily.

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#14 Re: All The Eights
June 02, 2009, 11:27:55 am
Yes, some (including me) reckon Denali feels higher cos of the lower atmospheric pressure being so far north, the oxygen isn't forced into your lungs as easily.

its only the same as saying font 7c in bad nick gets you an 8a - still no tick.

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#15 Re: All The Eights
June 02, 2009, 11:29:46 am
Adam, glad to hear you're taking up my challenge!

You'd like winter climbing too, all that new kit to buy  ;)

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#16 Re: All The Eights
June 02, 2009, 11:33:05 am
Yes, some (including me) reckon Denali feels higher cos of the lower atmospheric pressure being so far north, the oxygen isn't forced into your lungs as easily.

its only the same as saying font 7c in bad nick gets you an 8a - still no tick.

Well no, clearly. They actually say it feels more like 7000m at the Equator, so still a long way off 8000m!

 

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