I thought the best stuff tended to be the long stuff and I didn't get on many short things despite being there for two months, but there are some good short ones. Their's also some fairly long things that boil down to short hard bits after a good rests (often good kneebars). Longish but not too pumpy(by Rodellar standards): Nanuk - 7c Argo - 8a(soft) Lola - 8a El Delphin - 7c+ Citrus - 8a+ Other ones which are total classics, but probably pumpy: Coliseum - 8a El Coridor Del Muerta(?) - 8a Ironman - 7b+ Adios Pepita - 8a Cosi Fan Tutti (L1)- 8a+ Kings Of Metal - 8a+ The 7c and 7c+ left of Argo, I forget the names. Pince Sans Rire - 7b+ Mal D'Amour - 8a+ Gladiator - 8b Pretty much anything on Gran Boveda and Ventanas is *** So many awesome routes! Make sure you bring a long rope. Go to Piscineta in the Alcanadra (next gorge along, but in same guide) at least once, it's mind blowing and has a brilliant swimming hole below.
Almost everything at Rodellar is 3 star including El Delfin. The route may not be totally natural but the climbing is superb!!!!