[TobyD]

Off to rodellar for the first time in early June.

Any particular recommendations for really good 7a - 8a/+ ish type things? Particularly ones that might suit an essentially piss weak trad climber with moderately strong fingers and a propensity for bizarre contortion.

any other destination knowledge gratefully accepted: where to find shady / sunny / dry crags etc etc 

[MorganW]

I'll kick it off....keep in mind i only spent 4 days there last July and only climb in the low 7's.

Started off at Camino and there are some ok warmups in the 6's but a bit limited after that (there might however be the odd good 7 on the RHS).

Highlights for me were:

Boulder Jon sector (nice and shady which was handy as it was 35 deg+) which has some nice 7a+'s.  Further along is the classic Pablo Pequeno (7a+/b) but i didn't have a chance to get on it.

Aquest Any Si sector (lovely area right by the river) which has a brilliant 7a tufa climb (Spasiba IV) which i belive has a good 7c extension, plus there seems to be loads of other stuff in the 7's there.

Ventanas is an amazing sector high up on the hill with an amazing arch formation (7c) and a nice 7a+ round the back (A toru pasau).

Pince sans rire is another good shady sector and the 7b+ named after it is meant to be a classic.

Brilliant place nd wish i could have stayed longer.  The main thing i liked is the number of different sectors in an amazing setting all a short walk from each other giving different shade/sun options. The climbing is generally steep and powerful mainly on good edges rather than pockets.....but the odd tufa and kneebar/heel hooking as well.

[Bonjoy]

Hi CT,
Here's what I route to a similar request (the guy asked for short route recomendations):

I thought the best stuff tended to be the long stuff and I didn't get on many short things despite being there for two months, but there are some good short ones. Their's also some fairly long things that boil down to short hard bits after a good rests (often good kneebars).
 Longish but not too pumpy(by Rodellar standards):

 Nanuk - 7c
 Argo - 8a(soft)
 Lola - 8a
 El Delphin - 7c+
 Citrus - 8a+
 


 Other ones which are total classics, but probably pumpy:
 Coliseum - 8a
 El Coridor Del Muerta(?) - 8a
 Ironman - 7b+
 Adios Pepita - 8a
 Cosi Fan Tutti (L1)- 8a+
 Kings Of Metal - 8a+
 The 7c and 7c+ left of Argo, I forget the names.
 Pince Sans Rire - 7b+
 Mal D'Amour - 8a+
 Gladiator - 8b
 Pretty much anything on Gran Boveda and Ventanas is ***


 So many awesome routes! Make sure you bring a long rope. Go to Piscineta in the Alcanadra (next gorge along, but in same guide) at least once, it's mind blowing and has a brilliant swimming hole below.

The 7c and 7c+ just left of Argo at Boveda would be good initial objectives being both amazing and pretty soft for the grade. Bring knee pads!

The two rightly famous uber classic 8as are El Coridor Del Muerta(?) and Colliseum, but IMO Adios Pepito (40m of relentlessly steepness on mostly big holds with no hands-off rests) at Piscineta is even better and unlike those two has no manufactured holds.

If Rodellar is too hot Tres Pont would be a good alternative being up in the hills and in a very shady gorge setting, it's a couple of hours drive east I think.

[abarro81]

Whilst there's a rodellar thread up.. am I right in thinking it's usually ok (tempertaure and weather wise) in september? One of my mates thought it might be too hot.
Bonjoy - when you say 'relentlessly steep', what sort of angle are we talking. Full on roof climbing or not quite at that angle? The pics of corridor I've seen made it hard to work out whether it would feel like climing up or backwards (I'm a big fan of stamina route but struggle with full on roofy backwards style climbing)...
I hate being psyched when it's exam time

[north_country_boy]

I went in september last year Alex, it was warm but we also had rain so kept it feeling fresh.

Corridor isn't that steep, maybe 35-45degrees max, and very good rests, doesn't feel as 3D as some of the routes in Ventanas.

I'd second most of the routes of Jons list, espeically, A Cravita, Argo & the routes left of this.....

However, El Delfin is probably teh worst route ive tried anywhere in europe, amazing line but the worse glue up/manufacturing job ive ever seen!!!!

[Bonjoy]

I only recommended that one in the other thread because it was short which is what the OP wanted, it wouldn't be on my list of general recommends for the area by any stretch of the imagination, although it is very photogenic and an easy 7c+ to onsight.
abarro - Adios Pepita starts slightly overhanging for a bit then goes to about 40 degree or more for the rest. Gran Boveda has some nice ones which aren't mega steep

[TobyD]

thanks for the recommendations all. To any interested in Rodellar my recommendations from a week there would be:

1) go for way more than a week, rodellar is the best steep, juggy climbing anywhere (other than south devon)

2) 6b&c: routes on nuit de temps, hombre barca; 7b+: commando cono, sopa de ajo, aquest any si; 7c: L'any que ve tambe; 8a: Coliseum, Argot

3) walk up the gorge to the pared de la virgin and look at the huge towers, clouds of vultures etc.

[Ged]

Anyone been to rodellar in october time?  Thinking of going october half term, which is end of october. Likely to be too cold?  I suppose if it is we can just go to terredettes or something

cheers

[Bonjoy]

I was there for the whole of Oct 07, great conditions all month. I wouldn’t worry about it being too cold. I also went for a week in Oct 05 and most of the best crags were soaked. I’d say October is the safest bet of any month of the year for a trip to Rodellar, but there is still always the possibility of the tufas being wet. A good nearby retreat if it was to cold/wet would be Alquezar, less than half an hours drive away, sunny big orange walls and huge caves

[deathballclimbing]

I live 45 mins away, have a few friend i could prob put you in touch with. Look out for a dude called antoni hes basque and is mates with sharma and andreda.. pm me and ill look into stuff for you

[yorkshiregripper]

Almost everything at Rodellar is 3 star including El Delfin.  The route may not be totally natural but the climbing is superb!!!! 

[north_country_boy]

Almost everything at Rodellar is 3 star including El Delfin.  The route may not be totally natural but the climbing is superb!!!! 

Obviously this is completely subjective, but when I stated it was the worst route I had ever been on, I was certainly not exagerating......it is utter DOGEGGS