[moose]

Also there is a big differnece between a crag that has one or two classic hard problems that look good in a video and a crag it is worth leaving yorkshire or the peak to vist.

aye, for a full day's entertainment - a good steady warm-up on old favourites before working a few "projects" - I generally have go to Kyloe or the Bowdens (or head south to the Yorkshire grit).  Most of the rest of the Northumbrian (and more esoteric NE England venues) do seem best suited to those trips where you only fancy a half-session (perhaps focussed on one particular problem) - a quick whittle before the rain hits and you escape to the wall / cinema / pub etc.

[Bonjoy]

  Most of the rest of the Northumbrian (and more esoteric NE England venues) do seem best suited to those trips where you only fancy a half-session (perhaps focussed on one particular problem)....

 Not sure if Goldsbrough Carr counts as esoteric NE, but i'd happily travel up there from Sheff for a full day.

[Paul B]

goldsborough is well worth the visit although I think some of the grades are a bit off.
Beths trav is a quality problem as well as many of the roof problems put up my cummins and dunning.
Theres some narly aretes at the approach end of the crag but many have bad landings. Stay away from this place when its at all windy. (PS - whoever it was using blue and pink chalk to mark up problems stay away full stop)

Like someone said above shaftoe boils down to a couple of decent problems, I wouldnt waste a trip up from sheffield on them, explore further along kyloe in. Try some of the things at kyloe out. Learn to fly for dyno lovers.

Vienna - Is this not a good candidate for some of that stabiliser compoun? it seems to change every time i visit?
Seem to remember the beta being to stack your fingers on RH side of the crimp, bring right toe in on smear and pop with either hand. ( The sand in the break is a pain, towel seems to do the trick though ).

[Bonjoy]

I once went to Kyloe out, did a few probs and a bit of soloing, nice crag all in all.

[Bonjoy]

Those probs on the preview page look good, particularly the ones at Hepburn. Shame they are so tiny. Has no-one got the originals?
 I can't remember the name of the place now, but there was some photos of it in a mag last year or 2004, in the Northumberland Highballs article, had very grey rock, that looked great. Any ideas where that might be?

[SA Chris]

Callerhues? Have you got the Northumberland routes guide? There are loads of places in there with good highballing stuff that get no mention in the bouldering guide.

[LongMonkey]

Bonjoy the only other photo I can find of the Hepburn problem (The Governor) is in the news section on www.climbonline.co.uk/news.htm



Yeah SA Chris is right, some highballs here. Crouching the Mahogany is fantastic. There is a pdf bouldering guide at the bottom of this page:

http://www.climbonline.co.uk/callerhues.htm

[Bonjoy]

That's the place, infact Crouching th Mahogany was the prob I have seen pics of which looked amazing.

[moose]

Didn't some local waddage (Bob Smith) once say that "all you need to climb at Callerhues is toilet paper"?  Lots of big highballs with incredibly rounded topouts.  

Agree that Goldsborough has some pretty damn fine problems, though for the low grade punter the goodness is pretty much limited to the Fiddler buttress (Jumping Jack Flash etc) and that short section from Enigma to Hubris.  The Thornbird buttress is largely vegetated soloing territory these days (unless you have ambitions on supposed V10 roof at the LHS).  I do keep meaning to return for a go at the Scoop (V5?) on the Fiddler buttress and Fiddler's Wall (V6/7?) though as I couldn't figure them out at all last time I visited.  May have to wait a while though - it always seems to be bloody freezing there!

Not an esoteric venue by the standards of the NE guide though (I think it gets a 5* - "highest possible importance rating" along with Slipstones etc).  I was thinking more along the lines of Crag Willas, Cleaden, Marsden, Kepier etc....

[SA Chris]

I thought it might be Crouching you had in mind, looks ace.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=30647

BoulevardLooks sweet as well.

[Paul B]

Ive always meant to try the problem that goes about 2 metres left of childs play at bowden, it looks really thin and no sign of wear and tear to the best of my knowledge.

[Fingers of a Martyr]

Never been myself, but have been told Callerhues is excellent.

[Moo]

It would seem that what puts most people of about northumberland is that they have to travel to get there. I guess if you aren't motivated to check out new aeas, rather than trodding over old ground again and again, there's not much to be said that can motivate you to make the journey.
Check out
www.themoves.co.uk

there's some good pictures on there might help provide a little inspiration i hope.

[webbo]

i've climbed at callerhues years ago when i did routes and remember ending up leading routes of a height and grade i would normally solo,due to the top outs.good place though.