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Northumberland classics (Read 14538 times)

Doylo

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Northumberland classics
October 27, 2003, 05:34:49 pm
Considering a weekend trip to northumberland, probably vist kyloe, bowden etc...  What are the classics to try and their proper grades, not to keen for that northumberland b-grade malarkey!

dave

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#1 Northumberland classics
October 28, 2003, 09:17:53 am
i can personally vouch for  Y front at english 5c/6a, but i think a G of your calibre aught to be looking at vienna (7a?), poverty (7b?), the crack (8a?) born lippy (7c?), staggered (7c?) etc at bowden.

Doylo

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#2 Northumberland classics
October 28, 2003, 02:29:57 pm
Cheers, dunno bout vienna, i can't dyno to save me life! Hitchhikers looks mega on Stick it as does Yorkshireman (though i've heard its living end from a standup). Whats the score on accomodation up there, i've got places to stay in newcastle buts its not that near to the bouldering is it.

Adam Lincoln

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#3 Northumberland classics
October 28, 2003, 02:34:16 pm
Quote from: "Chris Doyle"
Cheers, dunno bout vienna, i can't dyno to save me life! Hitchhikers looks mega on Stick it as does Yorkshireman (though i've heard its living end from a standup). Whats the score on accomodation up there, i've got places to stay in newcastle buts its not that near to the bouldering is it.


Get yerself upto yorkshire! Qualidy problems

dave

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#4 Northumberland classics
October 28, 2003, 02:36:53 pm
Quote from: "Chris Doyle"
Cheers, dunno bout vienna, i can't dyno to save me life!


theres no neead to dyno - theres a decent crimp for the left hand, then pop to the break (RH?). I never done it, but nearly did it that way a few years ago back when my limit was about B7 so you should ice it no probs.

Doylo

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#5 Northumberland classics
October 28, 2003, 02:50:19 pm
How's it goin young Adam, how was Greece, am keen to go to earl some time soon when its nice and baltic but to be honest i'm finding it hard to drag myself out the school and onto the rock these days. Sad bastard i know, good effort on the hurley innit, i'll give him e9 for that.

Adam Lincoln

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#6 Northumberland classics
October 28, 2003, 02:58:43 pm
Quote from: "Chris Doyle"
How's it goin young Adam, how was Greece, am keen to go to earl some time soon when its nice and baltic but to be honest i'm finding it hard to drag myself out the school and onto the rock these days. Sad bastard i know, good effort on the hurley innit, i'll give him e9 for that.


Was baltic on Sunday at Ilkley! We both managed a quick ascent of Superset classic V10, and a few others. Winters here! Earl was wet, we went there before hand.

Worth an hour or so bouldering at Ilkley then onto Earl or Caley when you do make it up

justfunk_

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#7 Northumberland classics
October 28, 2003, 08:53:37 pm
We are of to northumberland this wkend!  

Carnt wait.   got a good strong team of us going,

I have a huge list of must do's !   Ill never get em all done.

Any spots we must visit ?  new areas etc?   Let me know ?

Cheers  .

Johnny Brown

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#8 Northumberland classics
October 29, 2003, 08:53:27 am
Quote
theres no need to dyno - theres a decent crimp for the left hand


I don't know how you people sleep at night.

Use the approved sequence!

dave

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#9 Northumberland classics
October 29, 2003, 09:02:41 am
i know you hate limestone but with comments like that you'd really fit in down at the Tor. :wink:

just cos pete kirton missed out a load of holds don't mean i have to!

Johnny Brown

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#10 Northumberland classics
October 29, 2003, 09:06:07 am
When pete did it I bet the footholds weren't good enough to use such small holds.

Learn to jump!!

Bloody crimpin', cheatin', staticin' limestone rats :x

dave

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#11 Northumberland classics
October 29, 2003, 09:07:28 am
Quote from: "Johnny Brown"
When pete did it I bet the footholds weren't good enough to use such small holds.


that sounds like an excuse to me.  :lol:

Bubba

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#12 Northumberland classics
October 29, 2003, 09:14:18 am
There didn't used to be any footholds!

Johnny Brown

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#13 Northumberland classics
October 29, 2003, 09:17:04 am
I rest my case!!

those crimpin' limestone types must have chipped 'em! :wink:

Bubba

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#14 Northumberland classics
October 29, 2003, 10:54:35 am
Shame that soft sandstone just doesn't last  :cry:

In reply to the original post, why not try emailing http://www.northumberlandbouldering.co.uk/ coz they're the local crew who should be able to point you to the right place...

Adam Lincoln

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#15 Re: Northumberland classics
December 08, 2003, 11:53:57 am
Quote from: "Chris Doyle"
Considering a weekend trip to northumberland, probably vist kyloe, bowden etc...  What are the classics to try and their proper grades, not to keen for that northumberland b-grade malarkey!


Went to Bowden and Kyloe this weekend.

Fuckin mega place!

Didnt have that long but had a play on most of classics

Had brief goes The Crack and Weorking Class. First move on The crack is nails, and Working Class boils down to one move. Poverty and Vienna are absolute classics. As is Childs Play. Couple of good roof problems aswell.

At Kyloe, Jocks and Jordies is brilliant. Sit start to Hitchhickers is good if you like pocket pulling. Northumbrian is annoying. Easy to touch pocket, but to stick it!!! Phew

Did you go in the end Chris? What dya get done?

Doylo

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#16 Northumberland classics
December 08, 2003, 11:55:39 am
Nah couldn't be arsed in the end, went to Earl for the day instead. Spose i'm gonna have to go sometime.

Pantontino

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#17 Northumberland classics
December 08, 2003, 12:40:32 pm
Adam - 'the Northumbrian' - shurely shome mishtake?

I take it you mean the Yorkshireman?

Did you try the hand switch method: pull up into the layback, then flip your left hand into an inverted position and undercut up to the pocket/edge thang with yer right hand. More involved, but a little less powerful than the standard way.

dave

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#18 Re: Northumberland classics
December 08, 2003, 12:45:59 pm
Quote from: "Adam Lincoln"
Poverty and Vienna are absolute classics.


can you vouch for vienna not being the ridiculous 7c/+ you hear bandied about?

Adam Lincoln

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#19 Northumberland classics
December 08, 2003, 12:48:44 pm
Quote from: "Pantontino"
Adam - 'the Northumbrian' - shurely shome mishtake?

I take it you mean the Yorkshireman?

Did you try the hand switch method: pull up into the layback, then flip your left hand into an inverted position and undercut up to the pocket/edge thang with yer right hand. More involved, but a little less powerful than the standard way.


Aye! Thats what i meant

No didnt try that method. Got a cool method, just need a bit more Umph! Was fooked after 5 hours going solid!

Dog with 10 cocks springs to mind

Adam Lincoln

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#20 Re: Northumberland classics
December 08, 2003, 12:50:14 pm
Quote from: "dave"
Quote from: "Adam Lincoln"
Poverty and Vienna are absolute classics.


can you vouch for vienna not being the ridiculous 7c/+ you hear bandied about?


I didnt do it as it was wet. Feet kept slipping. Tried static way, which will go at about V8ish. Jumoing method, dunno, iam shit at dynos, but 7c+ seems a bit overgraded.

Dunno

ian h

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#21 northumberland
December 08, 2003, 01:47:11 pm
did vienna in the pissing rain in about 20 mins. 7c/+ seemed way out to me agree with it being about 7a

however can understand how it may have got that grade once upon a time if there never used to be the footholds?

thought playing rudies was an ok dyno though. has anyone tried that catapault, now that looks fucking awesome.

yorkshireman was abit hardcore for me at the time i went about a year ago, although i would like another go now.

agree with the jocks and geordies being absoloute quality. + dog eat dog at bowden know one mentioned that one yet.

LongMonkey

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#22 Northumberland classics
January 12, 2006, 02:03:56 pm
Listen to you all harping on about Bowden and Kyloe! You know there is more to Northumberland than 2 crags! This is exactly why routes are getting trashed. I know the bouldering guide isn't the best but were is your sense of adventure? The new routes guide covers almost all the venues the bouldering guide does so no excuses for not being able to find them. Try Shaftoe or Rothley, very grit like and lots of problems to test even you 'rock cats'! Hepburn isn't far from Bowden and has some excellent problems there. Ravens crag is even closer to Bowden; right infront of it so you don't even have to break the habit of driving up the Bowden.

SA Chris

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#23 Northumberland classics
January 12, 2006, 02:14:19 pm
Harping on?? This thread has been dead for two years until you resurrected it. Nothing you have said hasn't been discussed in other threads since then.

Way to go with that finger and that pulse.

LongMonkey

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#24 Northumberland classics
January 12, 2006, 02:28:16 pm
The point is nothing has changed in 2 years. The only venues you see people at are Bowden and Kyloe.

Maybe you'd learn something if you looked at past threads. Lighten up!  :roll:

 

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