[tommytwotone]

Easy, been out today and had a proper bo day at Robin Hood's.

Was flexin ma steelo on the classic square cut arete problem (the one with the B7 slab next to it). Looks like some crazy assed mofo has done a prob to the left of the arete using two decent looking undercuts and some other things that I suppose you could loosely describe as holds.

Anyone know whodunnit / what it is?

I'm suspecting Percy, and V lots...

[Bubba]

It was mentioned on here recently - think it's a Ben Moon thang but can't fully remember. Dave will know...

[fatboySlimfast]

Dont think its ben spoons or percys
and think its from last year by?
met some guy at cratcliffe last year in depths of winter who had just done it, wether he the first dont know? massive geezer round 6ft plus wit huge span, think we can get jist of problem from that

[Johnny Brown]

yeah its a spoon problem - Ben's R-H wall the 2nd or summat.

7c/7c+ maybe. There are two ways of doing it. First  - the original --mantel the break and stand up into the gaston at full stretch. Then swap hands, palm down by the arete with your right (but resist the temptation to grab it), bounce yer feet up and grab the top, or...

the way I did it, which is of course much better and purer cos at no point can you grab the arete :wink: ...mantel, get the gaston with the right then rock left to the dirty scoop with yer left. One of the hardest rocks around...

[tommytwotone]

nice one, cheers. It'll be a while before I'm anywhere near that one then!

[dave]

word FBSF, that massive tall guy you saw last winter must have been the guy who did it whilst i was trying it, cos i think we might have seen you later that day at t-crack. I think i gave hime the sequence, so you could say part of the 7c+ belonged to me.....

yo johnnybrown, if you do it the "left hand in undercut" way, theres no need to have a hand anywhere near the arete, cos its RH finger down in that mono (as per the above mentioned tall guy who did it).

[chris]

seen big ron doing it, made it look about 5+ too!

remember thinking it looked good...is it reach dependant? :roll:

[Johnny Brown]

theres no need to have a hand anywhere near the arete, cos its RH finger down in that mono

yeah, but its only your own self control stopping you grabbing the arete,
making it an eliminate.

If you wanna sleep at night, you gotta do the rock left :D

[dave]

ahhh, but if the rockover method is probably harder, then thats an eliminate too, cos it's only you self control stopping you doing the other way! :

[Johnny Brown]

Your logic is sound, grasshopper, but listen to your heart you must :wink:

[caedmon_m]

Well Mr Tom 'the scar' TwoTone I did climb it last winter, more like 7b for a giant like myself if i remember correctly? Doubt very much it was a first ascent, as it had chalk on it when i climbed it.  :wink:

[tommytwotone]

sounding like without being a lanky mutha I'll be getting nowhere this one - was just inquisitive in my geeky Peak style

my ambitions are obviously a bit more modest, I actually managed to get onto and stay on the B7 slab round the corner, but spannered up the last move. Here's hopin' for good conditions this weekend - B7 third time out after 7 month layoff wouldn't be bad (puts down own trumpet)

[Bubba]

I actually managed to get onto and stay on the B7 slab round the corner, but spannered up the last move

I hope you were strictly in the middle of the slab and not using any big footholds out left...  
I, like you keep slipping off the move for the top. It must be the rubber on my boots..... :wink:

[dave]

that b7 slab is quite nice to do by putting one foot on the slab thenstanding/leaping for the top (no run up of course). you can make it harder by going for the top further left.

actually come to think about it, i think it was this slab that the boys on http:bloc were sitting on the top witha  run-up.

[Bubba]

I don't think I'm tall enough to do it like that!

Yeah, if you go round to the right you can run up the slab and pop onto the top using no hands - a classic fun problem to add to those other handless things at Cratcliffe top.

[tommytwotone]

in the interests of biggin' up my own status I am happy to report that, following about 20 attempts I nailed it yesterday. Kiss my bad self.

Went out with a mate so he could try Weedkiller traverse, bumped into Neil Bentley and John Welford at 'the Tor' and then sacked it off to Robin Hood's so I could attempt the slab.

And yes Bubba, I was well in the middle - just shitey pebbles and smears for feet!

[Bubba]

I was only askin' coz I've seen a load of folks use half the footholds on the arete to the left and think they've done the slab, not that it really matters I guess...

[dave]

on the subject of RHS slabz, was anyone done the B8 slab/wall thats on the stride facing side of a low boulder near the path, you walk past if if you walk to kaluza klein? :?:  its just right of a slopey B5 arete. its got like a shit non-seam, a couple of pebbles and a high slopey pocket/dish for RH. i had a couple of goes a few weeks ago when it was quite warm, felt alright, could get into the position for a final big rockover, but it really is thin on the feet, very stiff boots will help for the tiny pebbleholes/divots. i recon it could be monster classic.

[Bubba]

It's on my list - looks great, but one for a very cold day I reckon...