[dunnyg]

Anyone got any beta for this? Done the Green wing version (which is worth a go) and was looking at this. Whats in, whats not? Any info at all would be good.....
 

[dunnyg]

surely they must be at least one person out there whos had a a play at some point....

[mendis]

Its on the list for the next time i go to Baildon, if it ever stops raining i'll try it and let you know!

[Adi Gill]

Hi Huw, Everything is in on pinch 32, Dave Sutcliffe climbed it first on his 32nd birthday after a long siege. He did it from a crouching start at font 8a then Mark Katz stepped in for the true sit start (as Green Wing does) at font 8a+. Don't quote me on the exact finishing sequence as i can't remember but where Green Wing latches out right to the big hold you instead slap up left for the condition dependant sloping pinch on the steep face and pop for the top. The full sequence is alot more involved, i'll get Dave to fill you in. Best of luck.

[dunnyg]

cheers for that. Will get down there one day. Greenwing feld quite freindly. Dont think the sit will go for a fair while...

[Adi Gill]

Both good problems, just bare in mind there is a foothold on the arete which is deterioratiny quite a bit, no brushing required.

[Duma]

 



not



/spelling pedantry

[andy popp]

Pedantry ... but done with love.

[Oldmanmatt]

Deterioratiny?

Just a tiny bit deteriorated?

Or maybe...

Bear'ly deteriorated.

[Will Hunt]

This has been seeing some attention lately, does anybody know what the deal is for the original start? How low do you have to go? The guidebook talks about a crouch start, as do a number of comments on UKC logbooks. However, I can't think of what holds you'd start from in a crouch that would make it distinct from the true sit, which you do on Green Wing anyway 

I notice that Dan does what I'd definitely call a stand start in his blog (starts at 1:06):


This matches what Sutty does in this video (though he mentions that it omits the start):


So if these videos show the true original start then there's nothing really crouchy about it, and you can do it from a stand at 8A or from a full sit for 8A+? But that wouldn't match the guide or the logbook comments?

[rodma]

Is it not just a case of will crouching = Dan standing

[SA Chris]

I though the same

[turnipturned]

What? I am well tall?

Yeah there is a bit of confusion regarding the stand position, I figured that was a logical place to start, that was enough of a different from the sit.

Quite a few people have repeated the stand now, if you are a bit taller i think you can go straight to the pinch with left hand which avoids some hard moves if you are shorter? Talking to people, they think more 7C! I thought the stand felt pretty normal 8A for me.

The sit is the full line, however does it actually share much of the same climbing as Green Wing? Not done it but the sit into the stand of Pinch 32 felt about 7C in its own right? Think the sit will still be hard what ever sequence you use for the stand.

Good little problem, dries fast, snow proof, shames its in the location it is.

[Will Hunt]

Green Wing climbs as you did for Pinch sit but only goes as far as getting your right hand onto that undercutty crimp and your left on a good sidepull edge (the one you bump to off a toe drag in Back to Baildon). At this point you do a big slap around the the corner for a huge flake jug and top out easily on the right. Looking at your video I think I did the left hand bump with a really good heel instead of the toe drag which makes it completely static, and then you slap out right one hand movement earlier, which would explain the difference between 7B and 7C.

It looks like the best way to describe this would be a stand start off the holds started on in yours and suttys vids, and a full sit with none of this confusing crouch start chat. If there's a nice sequence that makes it piss for lanks then I'd best go and have a look 

[James Malloch]

Green Wing climbs as you did for Pinch sit but only goes as far as getting your right hand onto that undercutty crimp and your left on a good sidepull edge (the one you bump to off a toe drag in Back to Baildon). At this point you do a big slap around the the corner for a huge flake jug and top out easily on the right. Looking at your video I think I did the left hand bump with a really good heel instead of the toe drag which makes it completely static, and then you slap out right one hand movement earlier, which would explain the difference between 7B and 7C.

It looks like the best way to describe this would be a stand start off the holds started on in yours and suttys vids, and a full sit with none of this confusing crouch start chat. If there's a nice sequence that makes it piss for lanks then I'd best go and have a look 

Will, I gave Green Wing a go tonight and wondered if You could expand on your beta.
From a sit I go up to the RH undercut thing, and then bump LH 5/6 inches to a pretty good crimp. After this it's the toe hook/heel move. I'm guessing your heel goes where dans toe is on the back to baildon vid? Then bump LH to the (I think it's shit) side pull before moving feet and going around the corner to the flake?

If so, do you bring your RF up onto the eroding foothold before doing the heel move? I didn't try that tonight but it would make sense to do so. Though I started with a low RF rather than heel which means I've got all my weight on that and makes it harder to move...

Any thoughts would be welcome!

[Will Hunt]

Struggling to remember now, but I think you do what Dan does here:


Except that at around 2:20, you put your heel into the flake instead of dragging a toe. This makes the next hand bump completely static. I think then you go out right for the big flatty flake off the RH undercut without making any more RH movements.