[c3po]

Anyone know where I can get one?

[andy_e]

I alos would appreciate if there was one in existance, but talking to dunning it would seem there isn't one. There's about 30-40 problems though probably, of a good range of grades too. It's worth talking to a local though. I'd feel guilty at turning up and not tying in though!

[r-man]

This question pops up every year. There isn't a topo, but why doesn't someone just make one?

[north_country_boy]

Because 99.99% or people would never visit Kilnsey to scratch around in the dirt beneath the best limestone buttresses in the UK..............

[andy_e]

Put me in that 0.01% yeah?

[north_country_boy]

You can put yourself in it if you like.

[andy_e]

I would if I had a car in Leeds... I will get back on the sport next year I promise...

[Stubbs]

 I think I'll try and sort one out this summer if I get the time. The bouldering there is really good on solid limestone.  But I speak as someone who has travelled to california to scratch around on boulders at the foot of some of the best granite butresses in the world (amongst other places). 

[Andy B]

Steve showed me some stuff last week and I took some poor photos for a topo. Bear with me and I'll try and get the start of something up here tonight. I'll try and show what I saw as the non eliminate lines from what I can remember, and my thoughts on approximate grades for these, as a starting point for the locals to correct and add to.

[Andy B]

Sorry about the separate photos, the ones I had intended to stitch were taken on a wide angle lens and were too distorted to join effectively. The lines are from left to right, on the section around Mandela Traverse. This is the section that doesn't have a ledgy plinth at the bottom. All the grades are my own guesses from mostly hasty ascents (except the diagonal prow in picture three, which I didn't manage), they may well have better sequences. Apologies to locals for mistakes, but at least it's a start. Hope it's of some use.




The left hand groove from sitting, starting on a square cut pocket side pull. 6a




The left arete of the bulging prow, starting sitting off a nice comfy protruding pinch, up to edge or slot then a nice little crimp with your right, to finish up sharp pockets to jugs. 7b




This crosses the Prow diagonally from low left to the jug in the groove on the right. 7c+



There are two lines here, both sharing the same low start right underneath on a juggy pocket. Span out right to a crimp with an uncomfortable knobble then the square blocky undercut just above. A big move reaches the deep juggy pocket, then either finish straight up to the the jug above (7a+), or use a diagonal crimp/ pinch and a further comfy crimp to reach the higher hugs in the groove up and left. (the same finishing holds as the diagonal prow problem). 7b

You can also link the starting hold of this line into the start of the diagonal prow problem. Steve also pointed out a few hard eliminates on this link up but I can't remember them.



The groove line to the right. Start sitting with hands on the good ledge up to crimps in the groove, then span up and right to big protruding jugs. 6c



Leach's Eliminate: From the horn like protruding holds at the back of the roof reach with left hand to the two finger sidepull pocket, then straight through to the juggy slot break. ? ? ? (I didn't try this) The non eliminate version of the line/ area climbs slightly right of this to the juggy slot break 6c/+



From good pocket/slot jugs reach a nice horizontal pinch with right, and pull through to something (I can't remember) then a loose looking juggy flake and more jugs above. 7a




From good holds reach the two finger and mono pocket combo with your left, span to the spike jug up and right, then more good holds above. 7a/+




From good pocket work up the right side of the bulge to high jugs. 6b

[r-man]

Good man! 

[dave]

finally there's a reason to visit kilnsey. nice one billy elliot.

[c3po]

Cheers Andy hopfully this is the start of something good!

[jed]

Nice work!!!

Although this is going to insense many, I think some names and poss FA (impossable I know) need attaching to these note worthy lines.

 

[Norton Sharley]

This question pops up every year. There isn't a topo, but why doesn't someone just make one?

There are several published topos called guidebooks.  You're just missing the top 100ft of them.    No offence.

FFS you'll all be climbing indoors next. 

[andy_e]

Good effort Andy. Plenty for me to go at! 

[Kingy]

Nice one Andy, the bouldering here is good on its own or as a warmup for the routes. Plus its north facing and cool in the summer. Re the Leach eliminate, I thought this was Font 7b+ as it felt pretty hard when I did it 3 years ago, great steep problem. Doubtless the locals will know the correct grade!

[GCW]

Since Andy's pics seem to have died, I've splodged teh whole thing together into a PDF and bunged it on the UKB Vimeo site.  Sorry it's a bit guff quality.

[r-man]

Steve Dunning's Scarpa gallery has a couple of pics of problems that aren't in that pdf:


Kilnsey 8a


Primitive Notion 8A+

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Since Andy's pics seem to have died, I've splodged teh whole thing together into a PDF and bunged it on the UKB Vimeo site.  Sorry it's a bit guff quality.

Aye some work still to be done but you've started the ball rolling. Nice one!

any chance of describing some of the problems starts in relation to routes/features etc?

Cheers
Tim

[Andy B]

As the photo links have broken, I thought I may as well re-post the topo with new links:


The lines are from left to right, on the section around Mandela Traverse. This is the section that doesn't have a ledgy plinth at the bottom. All the grades are my own guesses from mostly hasty ascents (except the diagonal prow in picture three, which I didn't manage), they may well have better sequences. Apologies to locals for mistakes, but at least it's a start. Hope it's of some use.



The left hand groove from sitting, starting on a square cut pocket side pull. 6a





The left arete of the bulging prow, starting sitting off a nice comfy protruding pinch, up to edge or slot then a nice little crimp with your right, to finish up sharp pockets to jugs. 7b



This crosses the Prow diagonally from low left to the jug in the groove on the right. 7c+





There are two lines here, both sharing the same low start right underneath on a juggy pocket. Span out right to a crimp with an uncomfortable knobble then the square blocky undercut just above. A big move reaches the deep juggy pocket, then either finish straight up to the the jug above (7a+), or use a diagonal crimp/ pinch and a further comfy crimp to reach the higher hugs in the groove up and left. (the same finishing holds as the diagonal prow problem). 7b

You can also link the starting hold of this line into the start of the diagonal prow problem. Steve also pointed out a few hard eliminates on this link up but I can't remember them.





The groove line to the right. Start sitting with hands on the good ledge up to crimps in the groove, then span up and right to big protruding jugs. 6c





Leach's Eliminate: From the horn like protruding holds at the back of the roof reach with left hand to the two finger sidepull pocket, then straight through to the juggy slot break. ? ? ? (I didn't try this) The non eliminate version of the line/ area climbs slightly right of this to the juggy slot break 6c/+





From good pocket/slot jugs reach a nice horizontal pinch with right, and pull through to something (I can't remember) then a loose looking juggy flake and more jugs above. 7a

[GCW]

The PDF in the post above should still work too.

[andy_e]

Anyone still got the pdf?

[Paul B]

I haven't; peewee emailed Dan T the other day to get a copy I think.

Anyhow, I've just posted on the Facebook lifts group as the parking is under a lot of pressure at the minute. Please bear this in mind when you visit to climb the start of the routes .

[Coops_13]

Has anyone got access to a topo for bouldering here? None of the links are working...