Climb Newcastle Spring Comp (Read 11010 times)

benj_d · April 25, 2009, 01:04:28 am

hi.

Anyone from the north east on here go today? (I saw you philo, but never said hi

)

Was great fun, they put a really good event on. I thought I did myself proud by getting 301 out of 350.

Watch the vid of Nigel on the last problem of the final which won the comp on youtube or on climbnewcastles website, its good.

Free raffle was good as usual, i won 5 metolius holds to go on my friends garage wall. yeah.

I'll stop typing now...

yorkshireman · May 02, 2009, 11:42:59 am

knows who you are as i commented that you should take your holds to andy or chris and get them to set you a problem with them.

im still waiting for some more footage from the final,apparently they are making a dvd of the final

benj_d · May 03, 2009, 01:45:00 am

I remember someone saying that but cant picture you... heh. How old/tall etc. are you?

Well they are now sitting in my friends garage. Hopefully we'll be putting a new board up after we've cleared some of the mess up.

I was a bit gutted when i went on the friday just gone to find they had took the red final problems down because they clashed with the orange ones.. Fancied having a go at them!

yorkshireman · May 03, 2009, 10:08:39 pm

old and short.I came second in the final,have seem you at the wall numerous times

philo · May 04, 2009, 01:32:11 pm

are you the punk that sliced through your finger ages ago? we had a discussion about getting our cars taken off us by the french filth?
and yeah it was a good final!

yorkshireman · May 04, 2009, 04:45:37 pm

:guilty:yes i would be the punk who nearly cut my left index finger off with a panel saw

the final was brilliant although i was bullied by andy and adam to attend as i was planning on skipping it but glad i came.the atmosphere and crowd were brilliant plus i actually managed to do one of the final problems

benj_d · May 05, 2009, 01:38:04 am

ah Richard! my chalk bag buddy! ???

Well done in the comp mate! They are always worth going especially when you have the chance of winning a set of holds hehe.

New reds this week so I'll probably be along on friday.

Just had two small sessions at kyloe in for the first time this weekend, didnt do much, just bad company, red rum and something easier, I was working jocks which is not to my strengths and playing rudies which is to my strengths. Got very close on both, just about an inch from the finish hold on playing rudies, but never did either...

PHIL: How did you find your trip up there a few weeks ago?

yorkshireman · May 05, 2009, 10:11:29 am

have been to kyloe a fe times in the last month.so far ive done

yorkshireman 7b+
jocks s/s 7a
monty pythons s/s 7a+
hitchhikers 7a+
playing rudies 7b
the queens ear 7a+(flash)

working on doing hidden dragon(hard for the short) and sit start to yorkshireman.

went to queens the other day and did worldline 7b 3rd go and hoping to get out to shaftoe this week if the weather stops making life a living hell!

if you have a look at my facebook(rich gill-picture of me on not to be taken away),add me and theres a vid of me on the yorkshireman,adam on queen kong and dave on worldline)

benj_d · May 05, 2009, 02:42:24 pm

You beast.

Well, you are a far stronger climber than me.

I think I'll get jocks next time. I had about three goes on hitchhikers and it felt do-able but i wanted to do jocks and playing rudies more. Not sure about playing rudies being 7b despite what the guide says, however i cant comment when i am yet to do it...

yorkshireman · May 06, 2009, 10:31:35 am

it gets 7a+ elsewhere but jumps are always hard to grade

Mr Cat · May 06, 2009, 02:54:29 pm

there's a competiton this friday at the durham climbing centre...

5:30 - 9:30...

http://www.durhamclimbingcentre.co.uk/

benj_d · May 06, 2009, 05:54:13 pm

I do like DCC but I dont rate their comps. If you've been climbing more than a month then you cant enter the beginner category and if you find the advanced male one too hard then theres nothing for you.

I think I could do ok in the advanced male catergory but none of my friends could. Plus my main climbing partner is 36 so he just makes it into the veteran category so has to do a different set of problems. Its very boring and unmotivating doing a competition by yourself especially when all the problems are pretty hard and when for me only about 5 of them are flashable. Climb Newcastle competitions are where its at.

I bet its a right hassle as well setting about 4 sets of 20 problems for different categories instead of making a well ranged set of 35 problems.

yorkshireman · May 06, 2009, 10:10:30 pm

cool,another 4 years and i can be a vet

ive never actually been to the durham wall so to turn up and do a comp on first visit may not be the best idea in the world ???

Mr Cat · May 06, 2009, 11:12:14 pm

well, they're closed tomorrow as they resetting all the walls...so, I guess you'll have as much of an idea as most people...:D

I won't be entering tho...only got 4 months experience and I'll only show myself up...!

benj_d · May 06, 2009, 11:25:31 pm

Just get yourself there Richard. You'll probably win. I'm serious!

I cant believe you are 32, always thought you looked younger for some reason..

What are you working at Shaftoe? Me and Jonna (my main partner who i referred to before) have been working Timmy tip toes. We arent getting anywhere on it. I think I need to get a bit stronger before I start getting dead serious with it.

We've both done Slapper which gets 7a but its probably a little soft for that grade. Thats my hardest boulder problem i've done.

I quite fancy having ago at pocket rocket which I've seen in the guide but I havent been round to that area yet.

Mr Cat: Thats exactly what I mean, a few months ago you could have gone and enjoyed the beginners category but since you've been climbing very regularly since you started out (I think you said 3 times a week in another thread) then it would be cheating I guess. Then there is the advanced male category or veteran category depending on your age which are much harder!

yorkshireman · May 09, 2009, 01:07:27 pm

me and adam from climb newcastle were going to go but i had to work and dave won once and said he only got a chalk bag for winning so there was no motivation really.
ive always looked young for my age.was horrible at 18 trying to get in clubs but im sure when im 50 and look 35 it will be good.

shaftoe was good but the whole main wall at the top was minging.did main wall which is given 7b+ but i think 7b,did a 7b s/s on the left which felt 7a,had a go on vorsprung which has a hard move if your short but will go eventually.did most of central wall s/s 7b+ but kept popping off half way because it was dirty as hell.didnt try timmy tiptoes but will next time.did the 7b jump thing right of bloodsport and had a play on purely belter 8a which will go and probably not harder than 7c.was mega mega windy.
was first trip to the place so had a good first visit.
having a week off climbing now to recharge then get some ticking done!!

btw-you mates with the tallish lad with short hair who climbs in shorts and works at the uni?climb with him at the wall a fair bit

benj_d · May 09, 2009, 09:56:57 pm

Nope, cant picture him either.

I saw you at byker on friday, jonna spoke to you i think, but he said you were only there for a cup of tea/coffee.

New red set is good... some easier problems than last time but the majority of them are harder than last time. You should do them all but the crux one has a very nasty first move.

yorkshireman · May 11, 2009, 10:00:17 pm

i had a bash at them on friday,can virtually do the crux ones forst move static but not got it yet.on week off now so will try them next week.yeah was in friday returning adams jacket and having one of stu's world famouse power and sucess inducing hot chocolates

benj_d · May 11, 2009, 11:18:59 pm

Quote from: yorkshireman on May 11, 2009, 10:00:17 pm

can virtually do the crux ones forst move static

Does 'virtually' mean in your head? hehe, just kidding.

I am sure the hot drinks from Climb Newcastle tasted better when they put the chocolate powder on top using the E9 logo template heh.

I dont think I have ever had a proper rest week since i started climbing in Jan 08. Never been injured but I have started to have some worrying tingles in my hands and forearms lately.. The main pain is in my left middle two fingers, it was off one of those orange problems at byker where i pulled on a shallow two finger pocket which was bolted on the wall sideways and i kind of barn doored off it but continued pulling and a nasty pain shot up my fingers.. not the best idea.

I think the forearm tingles are just off getting into my fingerboarding a bit more frequent now that I have the little wooden beast! They arent too worrying.

yorkshireman · May 12, 2009, 10:52:14 am

its advisable to have a week off about every 6 weeks if you only boulder.the body needs time to recover plus i find if i never have a break i tend to plateux whereas a week off drops me down a level but i supercompensate above the previous pre rest level usually after about 2 weeks.trust me,a rest week is something you should think about especially if you have niggling little injuries

benj_d · May 12, 2009, 06:38:29 pm

http://news.climbnewcastle.com/index.php?id=117

"Check yo bad self"

and then there is me watching..

yorkshireman · May 13, 2009, 11:45:35 am

yeah porter missed me doing the crux of problem 2 totally static because he was looking down womans tops!!

benj_d · May 13, 2009, 09:30:26 pm

can you prove it... heh.

I think you did problem 2 even quicker than Nigel, maybe thats why he missed you.

So both me and Jonna have decided to take your resting advice.

I last climbed (or went on my fingerboard rather) on monday night. I will not be going on it again until next thursday and then i'll be climbing on the friday. So that is a 9/10 day rest. I think Jonna will be resting for the same amount of time.

Lets hope it does my tendons and muscles some good!

yorkshireman · May 14, 2009, 11:41:10 am

9 or 10 days is a little too long.anything more than a week is pushing it tbh.was speaking to stu at climb newcaslt yesterday and he says he always prefers about a 5 day lay off but its what works best for you but i couldnt stay away for 9 or 10 days,i would get withdrawl symptoms

benj_d · May 14, 2009, 12:31:43 pm

I'm sure you'll know better than me but i can still feel aches in my hands and forearms and I havent done anything with them for a few days. So maybe a long rest is needed..

I know what you mean about withdrawal symptons, when you and then Jonna were going about taking a rest, I was like "What?! Not. Climb?!"

, but if it will benefit me then its worth it. I might go and see Star Trek this friday instead of climbing, heh.

Mr Cat · May 15, 2009, 02:53:54 pm

yeah, I had a poor session on wed night due to doing too much i guess....tho, I'm going back tonight...so, see what happens...

yorkshireman · May 15, 2009, 08:45:24 pm

i only lasted 4 days away thenwent to the wall on wednesday afternoon and ended up running round the reds in a group(earl/graham/watson/ged/marc),2 goes on each problem then went to hepburn yesterday with chris/suze and stu from climb newcastle and nigel callender for a photoshoot with dave smionite and off to the wall tomorrow morning so i dont really know how to rest but i tend to recover pretty quick on anything but finger injuries.

Mr Cat · May 15, 2009, 10:06:31 pm

yeah, I had a pretty good session tonight - tho, I felt a couple of twinges on some fingers on my right hand...

my sessions generally last about 1 1/2 hours tops...

benj_d · May 27, 2009, 11:45:26 pm

Hey Rich,

I had a good weekend at kyloe!

Did jocks standing on my second go on sunday, it just felt so much easier!

Then on monday morning i did the sit start. Also touched the lip of the jug on playing rudies but not enough height to gain the hold properly..

Had a good time!

I hope your injury is getting better too