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First repeat of Bansousha (Read 3428 times)

jwi

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First repeat of Bansousha
April 26, 2009, 10:31:13 am
Nalle Hukkataival has repeated the famous boulderproblem 伴奏者 "Bansousha" (often transcribed "Banshousha" for some bizarre reason) 5-dan at Ogawayama, Japan.  Bansousha is sometimes touted as the "world's hardest slab" since 5-dan is 8b+ on the Fontainebleau scale (or 8c if high in grade, which would be unlikely considering it's located in Ogawayama). Nalle's verdict? Not a slab and not 8b+. Nalle think Bansousha climbs more like an 8b-arete.

More:
http://nalle-hukkataival.blogspot.com/2009/04/japan-trip-report.html (with a clip of Bansousha)
http://jijiclimb.exblog.jp/10803662/
« Last Edit: April 26, 2009, 10:41:51 am by jwi, Reason: forgot to write that Ogawayama is in Japan. forgot an \' »

Fiend

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#1 Re: First repeat of Bansousha
April 27, 2009, 08:55:37 am
Good report dude. 8b+> 8b (hard and technical) ain't that bad. And a video too! What a novel idea ;)

Looks a great line, need to get JB or nik on that shizzle.

r-man

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#2 Re: First repeat of Bansousha
April 27, 2009, 11:25:06 am
That does look good. But is he wearing La sportivas? How many grades easier in 5.10's?  ;)

And given Bansousha is an arete, does it mean the 8B Stanworth Slab is the hardest slab in the world?

dave

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#3 Re: First repeat of Bansousha
April 27, 2009, 11:47:15 am
That does look good. But is he wearing La sportivas? How many grades easier in 5.10's?  ;)

maybe that explains the original 8c grade - if it was done in scarpas.

Strife

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#4 Re: First repeat of Bansousha
April 29, 2009, 11:14:47 pm
He also flashed an 8A+ (possible 8B) a few weeks back.

 

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