[Rancid]

I went to eagle tor on sunday and was really impressed with the problems

anyone tell me how they did the b4 ramp type problem? i couldnt even get onto it! which was beyond frustrating if you know the problem i mean!

Also the tuft?taft? thingy, how did you do that?


will be going back soon to try and finnish off knuckle duster.

recommend it to anyone who hasnt been- also rowtor rocks has some great problems too inc the hardest b1 in the world lipped roof!

[chris]

you do the ramp problem im thinking of (up from brads arete) by putting right toe on the smear, left hand on the arete and springing up slapping higher with your left. when stood up get the shallow pocket thing with your right hand and hey presto :D

what is knuckle duster??

[Rancid]

that sounds like the problem.... couldnt move from the smear! high foot up for me and nothing to hold onto! will have to try again when less sweaty conditions.

knuckle duster is the b5 to the lest of invisble touch b6- first boulder ( well quite high! ) you get to. get to break, put foot in break where your hand is then reach for top if tall or shitty crimpy things then top if small like me.

[Bubba]

I've always done the ramp by putting right toe on the obvious hold and just slowly rocking over onto it, then pressing it out with the left hand somewhere on the wall until you can stand and get the little pocket.

It's a killer if your foot pings off the smear coz it always trashes your ankle  :?

[Rancid]

Thanks Bubba. I tried that but obviously not good enough/strong to rock over onto it.

am going again soon to try to commit to knuckle duster and the b6 to the right of it.

brush v0! (simon p ) i thought b2/3 ish was fair enough - only over graded problem i tried there!

the b6 to the left wall of it looked desperate and the sds b6? prob to the far right was mental too!  

nice place though. U should go to rowtor rocks too on your way back to the pub- nice place that. weird caves etc

[Bubba]

It's a really weird problem and I've seen some pretty strong boys fail on it who'd just done way way harder problems elsewhere at the place. I've been there sometimes and not done it, and other times breezed it.

Problems like this can be a bitch coz sometimes they slap you about when you think you're going ok!

[Jim]

thought this was going to be impossible - tried rocking on slowly but kept slipping off. Eventually did it by springing onto it (ie pushing off the ground) but once leg was straight - no probs
I thought knuckle duster & b6 easy- bit of a stretch tho.
knuckle duster - just rock on break with LF & don't undercut with RH
B6 - almost same but undercut with RH and get small crimp with LH then top
gets the heart pumping when you get the top

[Rancid]

thanks for beta im planning to revisit to tick all 3 very soon. im only 5'3 so am worried about the reach on knuckle duster and b6 but the landing is high up but safe n flat so i'll be ok ( tries to convince myself )

gotta get that ramp, am still pissed off with how badly i failed on it! lol