[Jim]

The following places I still have to explore in the Peak Bouldering rockfax. What am I missing out on and which should I visit next?
Derwent - pure lazyness, will go defo next spring
Stanage - causeway slabs - again lazyness
Burbage south edge
Houndkirk Tor
Millstone - just looks horible
Stoney - never fancied it
Rheinstor
Rowter Rocks - went past this t'other day but didn't have a look
Clifftop boulder
New&baldstones
Gibb tor
Doxey pool, the cube, fourth cloud & skyline
Heighley castle
all churnet valley & pleasley vale

fuckin 'ell there is quite a lot there actually

[tom]

bubage south edge is well worth a visit some really good problems up there , houndkirk tor has less stuff but still worth a couple of hours. Rheinster and stanage cause way slabs are not really worth the trek, just my opinion i'm sure someone will disagree. as for the others i've never been

[dontfollowme]

If you can combine going to the Newstones and Baldstones with going to the Roaches you could have a good day. The rock at Newstones is really nice and easier on the tips than the Roaches.

[SA Chris]

I was going to recommend similar a similar Baldy/New and roaches skyline trip. Park at the far end of the Roaches to access skyline boulders quicker. Still a bit of a hoof though.

[hongkongstuey]

New&baldstones, Gibb tor

sod the Roaches - do it seperately - combine these three and you'll have a class day. Newstones is one of my fav bouldering areas full stop, baldstones has a fun dyno and clever skin (which will frustrate you, even if Johnny B can do it in trainers, its hard) and Gibb Tor has The Stall which is delightful

Doxey pool, the cube, fourth cloud & skyline

Doxey Pool = Staffs Flyer = a gem = a wet arse if you fall of it! not much else up there of super quality though

The Cube - not really worth the trek to get to it

Fourth Cloud - never made it but FBSF had good things to say after a trip there

Skyline = class, class, class. the bouldering just past Wings etc is quality - try to find a local though as there's lots of stuff thats not in the guide

Heighley castle

used to live and work 5 mins drive from this place - worth a stop if you're in the area - some very good traverses and aretes but dodgy top outs - not worth the effort to go to in its own right though

all churnet valley

definately worth a trip, fun pebble pulling in some areas (Ousel crag), nice grit/sandstone in others (some traverse?? and gentlemans rock) and sharp painful stuff Wrights Rocks, its a bit harsh on the hands but has some good problems worth checking out

theres other places scattered throughout the Churnet which we've explored but the crags mentioned above can all be visited in one easy trip - bear in mind this place has climbable rock even when the weathers cack

fuckin 'ell there is quite a lot there actually[/quote]

[dave]

theres some good stuff on the boulder below th 4th cloud (mainly horrid mantles) but theres also a low angle "6a" slab which is quite trickt pure smearing - nice.

[dobbin]

You're almost as bad as me! in recent years I have travelled a bit more but as many will confer, if its not slimestone and begining with R then I'm not usually to be found there!

However:

Millstone - just looks horible

And it is! worth a look for Masters Edge and the overlords crimp fest

Stoney - never fancied it

Acquired taste, an annual visit suffices for me.

Heighley castle

You're based in Mancyville so this is just down the M6. Access is a bit tricky since the farm changed hands (apparently), not unlike pexhill in its constitution and climbing of similar pocketed sand stone nature - worth a look and stays dry in all but the wettest conditions.

pleasley vale

Limestone buttress on the outskirts of Mansfield, well worth a visit for the v5 traverse along the bottom. Some good up problems too, although coming from Manchester you'd have to pass much better crags to get there, don't think I'd make a special trip.

[chris]

get yourself to the roaches, went down yesterday, v.cool. also went to ramshaw which was pretty good, not really for bouldering but you can do some highball stuff, good problem/route called tierdrop thats very tasty.
johnny welfords 'ramair' (7b+!!!....what else) looked very good but wait for the cold weather.

whats newstones like and where is gibb tor??

[dmitri]

Newstones is great as long as no flippin groups top ropin the problem u want to play on!! & then runnin round screamin (not that i'm bitter)

Varicose - is great (only cos i flashed it & hav taken a solemn oath never to touch it again...)
Hazel Barn Traverse - very nice, potentially a sandbag tho! :?

On sly buttress theirs a traverse using the ramp for your feet (b4 i think) but apparently rumour has it there is also a traverse using only the ramp!!  :roll:

[simone]

definately recommend burbage south, problems like the groove - v.good plus lots of other funky shit

went up to clifftop boulders the other week, did not really find much to get me motivated.

[dave]

i thought the clifftop boulder (if we're on about the place near the Stride) was pretty good. non of that slopey faggotry, everything is niceley incut, plus theres a giveaway V9 dyno for the ego-boost.

[simone]

it probably didn't help that i was really hungover when i went there.
yeah did that V9 dyno which was very easy

[dave]

i recon a good link would be to start as for cracker block, reverse the b5 traverse then do the V9 dyno. or even reverse the B8 traverse into the V9 dyno - monster monster! :shock:

[Bubba]

Yeah but then you'd have to buy some lycra tights  :wink:

[dave]

I'm sure you've got a spare pair.

[Bubba]

Don't joke, until very recently I did have, but Selina forced me to bin any clothes I was never going to wear again.

Saying that, maybe I should have kept them for some retro chic. If I ever get a slide scanner I'll be able to post some extremely embarrasing "pics from the 80's" of many well known Peakies. Bribes to prevent this ever occurring to the usual address.

btw - that "b8" traverse at Clifftop is on my long term goals list - probably because I'll never do it.

[james]

Get your self to the fourth cloud and get on the monster that is "Who needs ready brek?".
Cheers

James

[Jim]

Cheers guys
will propably go down to new/bald stones area today and maybe gibb tor/skline if any skin to spare at the end (I doubt it tho)

[dontfollowme]

If you go to Newstones have a look at S+M. I couldn't figure out the sequence  :roll:

[Jim]

Excellent day had at new&baldstones.
That hazel barn block is sheer class, 5 sitters next to each other, all brill probs. Varicose took me longest to do and I've got cuts on both me knee's. Got them all in the end :D
Clever skin - not that impressed with it, doesn't look that good and that start hold hurts like hell after a bit. How do you do this in trainers as the foot holds are all small/crap smears? Didn't get that far up it but it didn't really inspire me plus fuct skin/headache/tired/too bright/*

*=any other plausable excusses

[fatboySlimfast]

S + m, is that the one to left of Charlies Overhang? Going up to undercut then direct to top?
if so its a trick to getting undercut wit left? then matching, little pocket then on for top. Have a glance at leather joy boys going right from same start and wince at the flaring jams needed......
Charlies overhang.....christ theres a thing, anyone attempted or done this will know wat im on about

[Jim]

didn't even attempt charlies overhang as i knew as soon as I got about 3 foot off the ground I would start shitting myself. S+M looks like a class problem although I only went up to the undercut and jumped/fell off as I was warming up

[dontfollowme]

There's a fairly good sloper beneath the undercut and a weird crimp thing next to it. We were able to reach the crack/pinch thing but not move off it.

[hongkongstuey]

Clever skin - not that impressed with it[/size]

trust me, it'll suck you into its grasp one of these days and you'll become an obsesed fool with very sore fingers!

[hongkongstuey]

Charlies overhang.....christ theres a thing, anyone attempted or done this will know wat im on about

i never actually managed to top that out - my best effort was laying chest sparwled on the top, feet swinging aimlessly below the roof and an ever increasing big brown pile mounting up beneath the problem - given that i was on my own i cautiously retreated to the lip and jumped off

[james]

Charlies overhang is pure class.  Do it in trainers for extra fun.
Cheers

James

[fatboySlimfast]

It has to be said james that doing it in your trainers isnt that impressive since there fuck all use in the first place.....
Ine reply Stuey your in good company, Andy Popp was pulled over the top by Allen Williams during the 80's as he got stuck and couldnt move for fear of falling over backwards

[james]

Believe me it is much easier in rock shoes as you have one extra thing to use to pull over the top.  Trainers just flop around.
Cheers

James

[Jim]

Clever skin - not that impressed with it

trust me, it'll suck you into its grasp one of these days and you'll become an obsesed fool with very sore fingers!

Looks like the top is pretty scary as its quite high up and very rounded

[tommytwotone]

Jim,

Just saw your original post, and feel I should let you know that Stanage Causeway slabs blow - give 'em a miss. (IMHO of course)

However, I can vouch for the quality of Burbage South edge, particularly on a hotter spring day, cause it gets plenty of shade as well as having some dope climbing (especially aretes)