[davej]

Hi guys had a session on salar yesterday any tips/beta for doing it static? Was trying it with my my right foot  in the pocket you move left on in a sort of drop knee position and my  left foot flaging getting about 2/3inches from the hold. Oh yes and i'm to old and fat to do it the dynamic way cheers dave

[Paul B]

Turn RH into more of a sidepull/undercut. RF up high (obvious hold I think) and LF up high in a sort of back-step.

[dave]

the dynamic way isn't bad if you get the big lefthand hold as a weird split pinch/sidepull at the right hand end instead of pulling straight down, and get your feet set right. on its own the slap move is only about font 6c/+ move (obviously height plays a part). the static way must be way harder than this.

[davej]

cheers guys

[Paul B]

the dynamic way isn't bad if you get the big lefthand hold as a weird split pinch/sidepull at the right hand end instead of pulling straight down, and get your feet set right. on its own the slap move is only about font 6c/+ move (bviosuly height plays a part). the static way must be way harder than this.

It seems really hard until you get your left foot on and then you're staring at the 'jug'. The slap move was very frustrating for me, I'd hit the lip just below the jug, hold it but not be able to move any one of my limbs before eventually sliding off. A bit of height no doubt helps.

[davej]

Hi Paul is your left foot smearing ?

[Oli]

Alex and I did the move with LH as Dave says, and back 3 of RH in the RH pocket. Then LF outside edge on an obvious edge high in the niche thing and RF out R on a small slopey edge. Then bounce LH up to a crimp about a foot L and also lower than the slopey jug thing. Saying this, I've failed to RP it so far and Alex did it but is a fair bit taller than 6'.

[Paul B]

Hi Paul is your left foot smearing ?

no its outside edging on something...

[davej]

once again thanks dave

[AndiT]

Here's a reasonably old picture of when I climbed it http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=26402

I did 'slap' and I know that this isn't the beta you're looking for, but I did find it considerably easier this way than attemting to rock up. It revolved around getting really well set on the crimps, with the 'split crimp' that was described by Dave and then using the outside of the right foot.

I suppose I'm just reitterating what Dave has said in a way, but I think it may be worth a little bit of persistance. In my humble opinion, if you've got the power to do it the static way, then surely you've got the power to do it the cheating-slappy way 

Hope that helps anyway, and good luck.

[Johnny Brown]

There's a pattern here... it might be helpful to know Dave and Andi are giants, whilst Paul B is a midget. I'm at the shorter end of average and failed to do that move any which way.

[dave]

JB, you definitely be able to do it my way I recon, you just need to climb on limestone more than once each year.