[GCW]

So consensus is that it's harder than Mugsy (which is Font 6c+ therefore V5)

I'd agree with that.
Except the V grade bit.

[Fiend]

 

There must be a lank/weakness issue going on somewhere.

Anyway, BACK TO SCOTT...

[willackers]

Anyway, BACK TO SCOTT...

Why?

It's bullshit and we all know it!

What a joke!
 

[Jim]

As was pointed out today, wether spanish bouldering is incorrectly graded or not or wether scott did an 8a (that nobody is really sure what it is or the grade from what I can gather) It still is a million miles away from doing the ace in a session

[GCW]

wether

Gotcha there Jim, you're saying Scott's on the right, yeah?

[Jim]

I can't spell for toffee or tofu

[Doylo]

Ty did mention struggling on Le Joker at Cuvier....

Also a certain 8B+ climbing welsh dude was at Dumby the other day, struggling to do Slap Happy - a "basic" Font 7A. I'm sure he's a beast (he was asking for beta on Supersize Me, 8B) but we shouldn't jump to conclusions just because we've seen people struggle on easy stuff.

On the other hand, said welsh strong dude has an impressive, corroborated and witnessed list of hard ascents in the past.....

East Coker also took certain Welsh dude many many days of effort spread over a long period of time. Climbing a proper hard Font 8b in ONE session is what we're talking about here hence the comparisons to Ty (The Ace was Ty's first 8b too, i'm sure it took him at least 3/4 visits).

[SA Chris]

The Ace was Ty's first 8b too, i'm sure it took him at least 3/4 visits).

three quarters? Boy is good.

[neil h]

took him 2 sessions on the  le joker 

[Adam Lincoln]

took him 2 sessions on the  le joker 

And whats he ever done in font? 

[rodma]

7Also a certain 8B+ climbing welsh dude was at Dumby the other day, struggling to do Slap Happy - a "basic" Font 7A.

  (sorry chummer), is Slap Happy (the standard way not the low start) really V6 (7a)? It felt easier than Mugsy, I'd put it around hard V4 or V5 and Mugsy hard V5 or V6...

 

It doesn't even have a slap move in it, it's just pulling between good holds (on not so good rock  )

[tim palmer]

7Also a certain 8B+ climbing welsh dude was at Dumby the other day, struggling to do Slap Happy - a "basic" Font 7A.

  (sorry chummer), is Slap Happy (the standard way not the low start) really V6 (7a)? It felt easier than Mugsy, I'd put it around hard V4 or V5 and Mugsy hard V5 or V6...

 

It doesn't even have a slap move in it, it's just pulling between good holds (on not so good rock  )

I didn't think you had ever been to dumby in recent memory roddy ha ha.
maybe if you are 8b strong they are good holds but it is a good problem and is spot on for 7a.  About the same or a bit harder than mugsy, mugsy is a trick move which once you have done once you can do everytime.

[a dense loner]

scott flashed the joker and brad pit, and did the ace in a session

[lagerstarfish]

scott flashed the joker and brad pit, and did the ace in a session

Where abouts in Wales are these peoblems?

[a dense loner]

i have no idea what a peoblem is but the ace is a cross between cable guy and deliverance. the joker is at alberacin and brad pit is an 8a roof done onsight above the atlantic, allegedly

[grumpycrumpy]

scott flashed the joker and brad pit, and did the ace in a session

Where abouts in Wales are these peoblems?

[lagerstarfish]

A peoblem is like a boulder problem specifically for uncoordinated twats with fat fingers

[neil h]

A peoblem is like a boulder problem specifically for uncoordinated twats with fat fingers

does your R button not work largers, 

[superfurrymonkey]

A Preoblem? do you get them on undiscovered preboulders?

[lagerstarfish]

A peoblem is like a boulder problem specifically for uncoordinated twats with fat fingers

does your R button not work largers, 

Nah, I've been practising typing with my elbows so I can type whilst holding the baby

[Resonate]

don't you mean...