[Bonjoy]

Quite a few LGPs have gone down in the last few years. So what are the next big challenges for the big beasts of now and the future? I’m not talking about any old hard gap/link-up here, I’m looking for inspiring stand alone classics in the making. Here’s my starter, a list of ten of the best boulder problem/highball LGPs from the Peak, in no particular order:
•   Impossible Groove – Burb S
•   Renegade Master super direct - Froggatt
•   Blunt arete left of Jumpin’ on a Beetle – Black Rocks
•   Smiling Buttress – Curbar
•   Big Air Direct – Stanage
•   Wall left of Swivel Finger – Nth Cloud
•   Grooved arete on far right corner of Cioch – Burb S
•   Slab right of Catastrophe International – Roaches
•   Arete on block beyond North bay – Millstone
•   Big Prow – Chew Valley (I forget which crag)

That’s a pretty hastily compiled list, a couple on there might be edging into the impossible. Feel free to suggest alternatives.

It might be interesting to look back in five years time and see how many have been realised.

[dave]

direct out the roof of velvet crab, burbage
chickenhead and pocket L of corpse crack, eatswood
direct finishes to either bens wall or greatwhite, curbar

[dave]

also:

huggy blunt arete/prow left of Hulley Pulley, savage garden.

[Bonjoy]

I'll go with the first three but the last one's a lowball for an LGP I reckon

[dave]

as lowballs go its a blinder though. its no more lowball than any of the hard climbing on the terrace for example.

[nai]

Wall left of The Joker?

[c.j.d.]

I can't quite remember, but:

Proper sitter from the slot to Intense, Burb South?  I do recall this being pretty cool, but as for a being an LGP, its a bit fuzzy around the edges.  I'm sure JB will bring me up on this if that is the case! 

I did look at the groove whilst there - I do remember that this was a really awesome line that a former Darlington resident was trying at the time.

[Plattsy]

Left hand start to Rons Slab II seems pretty blank to me.

[dave]

the proper low start to intense would be awesome, turns a shakey problem into ballbusting sharma territory.

also, the hand traverse out to the arete on the photo boulder, the south face. prooper beastmaker landing.

[Jim]

direct start of NTBTA

[Plattsy]

Someone mentioned the left hand side of Careless Torque on here recently.

[Sloper]

Indeed I did, anyway I'm having a conversion to LPG.

[Palomides]

Has the Wimberry project dyno been done?

[GCW]

No, but it isn't big and ain't on the best rock.  Certainly a LP, not sure if it's a LGP except for historical value.

[Paul B]

Proper sitter from the slot to Intense, Burb South?  I do recall this being pretty cool, but as for a being an LGP, its a bit fuzzy around the edges.  I'm sure JB will bring me up on this if that is the case! 

I think your quality control meter was set on "uber low" that day...

[Andy Harris]

struggling with this as Bonjoy has picked the obviuos ones. I'm even struggling to think of LP's or even Last low ball problems (LLBP)

how's about ss to talk to me martin (Burb S)

direct finish to Long's lock (Burb W)

Wizard ridge (Burb S)

christ i'm stuck in burbage and i can't get out. Somebody help me...

[Jim]

direct start to long's lock as well, nearly got done a few years ago I believe

[a dense loner]

don't talk nonsense

[moose]

Presumably there are a few remaining on yorkshire grit? Any LGP aspirants might have to get on the M1 before Tom Peckitt climbs them all!  

The obvious one is The Arch at Slipstones.  Some other gaps spring to mind after a recent trip to Caley too, although they may not be "great" and/or may have already been climbed - the wall to the left of Secret Seventh, the arete near Ranieri's Reach, and the wall to the left of the Pinch?  Are there any gaps left on the Great Flake boulder too?  

[Pantontino]

direct start of NTBTA

Careful Jim, Dave will be along soon to declare this a crumbly piece of choss (when it is in fact a brilliant and very obvious line - LGP status guaranteed!).

[TomP]

The obvious one is The Arch at Slipstones.  Some other gaps spring to mind after a recent trip to Caley too, although they may not be "great" and/or may have already been climbed - the wall to the left of Secret Seventh, the arete near Ranieri's Reach, and the wall to the left of the Pinch?  Are there any gaps left on the Great Flake boulder too?  

The arch at Slipstones is certainly a great hard project. The SDS will be possible to but into 8C territory! The wall left of secret seventh is also do-able and will be good (it looks shit cos no one has climbed it but get a bit of chalk on there and it looks totally different).

The arete to right of Ranieri's is 7c apparently, Juha's arete.

I have been looking at a very highball line in between High Fidelity and the Great Flake. Basically straight up the wall. There's a blank start (maybe have to do the start of HF and move to a sidepull pocket in the centre of the wall. Then, with feet on smears, make an outrageous dyno to a huge boss. Amazing and probably possible for the uber wads out there (I know Matt Birch has thought about it)

[TomP]

Oh yeah. After my last trip to Brimham, I realised how much there is to do there!

[moose]

Doing new stuff at Brimham always struck me as a bit of a hiding-to-nothing because of the rock's scrittliness.  The prospect of spending vast amounts of time working and cleaning something only for future climbers to brush it into submission, downgrade it and question your integrity! 

Admittedly some recent finds are great with good moves on aesthetic features.  For example The Grouch was brilliant, but I still felt guilty for contributing to it's errosion into something lesser.  Mind you, I still intend to get back on Crimpy Roof as soon as the weather allows!

[Palomides]

Anyone tried pulling on the blind pockety things on the wall left of this??



(I never have btw, but I've got an old photo of that wall that makes it look like there're a few maybe-holds on there)

[TomP]

Doing new stuff at Brimham always struck me as a bit of a hiding-to-nothing because of the rock's scrittliness.  The prospect of spending vast amounts of time working and cleaning something only for future climbers to brush it into submission, downgrade it and question your integrity! 

Admittedly some recent finds are great with good moves on aesthetic features.  For example The Grouch was brilliant, but I still felt guilty for contributing to it's errosion into something lesser.  Mind you, I still intend to get back on Crimpy Roof as soon as the weather allows!

True but it's a strange place. Some rock seems absolutely solid (I was trying a relly nice highball crimpy wall proj t'other day on imaculate rock) and other parts just fall away in your hands, which show no sign of settling.