[c.j.d.]

I'm off on a family holiday for a couple of weeks in July (to Sardinia).  Its gonna be hot, but I have managed to wangle 4 days in the middle of it all by my lonesome to get some rock on the go.  Any ideas, or links to sites etc (pictures much apreciated).  Cheers, CJD.

[dave]

i went years ago some some places near st teresa on the very north of the island, and one and hours drive inland. ok but not great, the granite is very coarse which doesn't make for fantastic climbing. looks nice though. elsewhere on the island might be better. try google.

[Plattsy]

There's a UKC article on Sardinia. Not much on bouldering tho.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=343.

[butters]

The Sardinia guide has a load of bouldering topos in it and I think that Christian Core has put up some reasonably hard stuff thereabouts. However since I don't have the guide to hand this is all based on my dodgy mental synapses firing in some sort of random order.

You have been warned!!

bluebrad

[c.j.d.]

Cheers,

I've just checked and they have this guide in V12.  I was pretty certain that there was a few big numbers here (Fred Nicole, 8a?), but as for the info on where, who knows.

Its gonna be warm, so I guess I was considering some esoteric gems on the granite, and then somthing slightly more challenging in the limstone.  There are a few cool looking projects in a gorge there that i've been given slide shots of, but its always nice to see some piccies of someone baring down to psyched about!  Anyone?

[Rice Boy]

Another useful article here:

http://www.rockpillars.cz/en/news/michael-huber-reports-from-sardegna.html

I'm heading there in Mid June though mainly for the cycling.  Rock boots will be my luxury item.  If I remember I'll try and get back to you after.

Bosco Selene situated in an ancient oak woodland in amongst a neolithic sitel looks like a great spot .

[Sloper]

There's some really good stuff to the east of capo testa, from the beach at st Theresa walk along the left hand side of the bay till you reach the small channel at the end, unless there's a big sea running this is fine to cross, and the bouldering is on the island.

[Jaspersharpe]

Report back please Chris and Rice Boy. The Mrs is interested in holidaying here but I've put her off previously as was unsure of the quality of the bouldering...........

[r-man]

http://www.climb-europe.com/sardinia.htm

http://www.infoboulder.com/?mod=boulders&regi=20

http://www.peteranne.it/album/Climbing/4.%20Bouldering/index.html

[dave]

unfortunatley its all this kinda of stuff round St teresa/capo testa which looks utterly stunning but is mainly crap to climb on. its only really "bouldering" in the sense of somewhere nice that sport climbers may go to on a rest day to have an icecream, a swim, and pose for some photos on some aretes without having to tire themsevels pulling on any faceholds cos there aren't any. bit like the woolpacks at kinder - amazing place but not bouldering.

[Jaspersharpe]

Which is exactly what I'd heard.

[r-man]

Mibbee, but the other stuff looks alright. That was just a random photo, and didn't come from any of the sites offering bouldering info.

From a brief inspection of the relevant websites, the granite type seems to vary from very rough to very fine, and there looks to be limestone as well. And a few hundred problems with grades up to 8a. Sounds reasonable!

[dave]

i can only speak for the stuff round the very north tip, which is the classic sportclimbers-day-off thing which always gets mentioned in stuff like old mag articles as "great bouldering". As i say, the other stuff i can't speak for, though if its limestone bouldering somewhere then that sounds worth a look.

[Jaspersharpe]

Word.

[fatneck]

I'm sure Nibile has been here?

[Pantontino]

I went on a family trip to Sardinia about 6-7 years ago. On one day I went bouldering at a place called Orani. It was pretty good, but the topo I had was rubbish. Did some cool problems, but left thinking that we hadn't seen the best bit. Nice fine grained granite with some funky intrusions of black stuff which gave nice slopers (apologies to hardcore geologists - not sure what the correct term for these is).

It's number 10 on the map in this link:

http://www.climb-europe.com/sardinia/nuoro.htm

Also saw some interesting looking limestone stuff at the start of the big central gorge on the island. Got attacked by a wild pig near here. Had my daughter on my back in a kiddy carrier at the time. I grabbed the rucsac that my wife was carrying and had to fend this vicious little bastard off with it as it tried to bite me. Scary stuff!

I thought Sardinia was a strange place - quite beautiful in places, but some of the villages and towns were really ugly and messed up with rubbish strewn all over the place and lots of half built houses. The other thing to bear in mind is that the island is much bigger than you might think. For scale/speed of road travel, think of it a bit like Wales, i.e. it's a long way from Pembroke to Llandudno!

[Houdini]

CJD - speak to Jez in Cwm.

[c.j.d.]

Very keen.  Jasper, I will keep you updated.  This gorge (forgotten the name, but have a map) looks like it could me mint.  Shaded freestanding limstone boulders, very overhanging etc, but still definatley need a back up as they could be knee high to a grasshopper.

I do actually have an instance of how bad these things can get:

I was once in a shop in Bangor, where I spotted the most amazing overhanging granite prow on a post card.  With the usual 'oh fuck, where's that?'  I was promptly informed by the chick behind the counter that it was in fact, Ploumanach, of the Cote de Granite Rose/Brittany fame.

I then set about arranging time off work, without my boss' knowledge; spent 24 hours on a National Express, 4 hours on a train, and 2 on a bus before arriving with my heavily pregnant partner, who, needless to say, had by now decided I was an absolute cock.

After spending the best part of two days wondering the 4km of coast line, I was approaching one of the many infamous lighthouses from an entirely new direction, and suddenly spotted a strangley familiar feature.  Lying down on my stomach, I realized that I had indeed found the prow, which was, in fact, about a foot high.  Tosser.  Also, what I though was a tree next to it (purely from the persective of scale) was a small shrub.

The moral of this story I guess, and to bring me back from the tangent, is that you definitly need a back up plan.  Word.

[Stabbsy]

Found a couple more things that may be of interest. There were some pics in an old Sharples calendar (Pics 23/24 on this link).

http://www.keithsharplesphotography.co.uk/galleries/Gal_Climbing06.htm

and I found this article which seems to have a bit of useful info.

http://www.rockpillars.cz/en/news/michael-huber-reports-from-sardegna.html

The 'Pietra di Luna' guide does have some info on both Rio Cannas and Orani, plus a few other spots that didn't sound all that inspiring. There may be other stuff in the guide, but only had a quick flick through it last night.

[PeterH]

There is lots of new bouldering in Sardinia. We go to Serra Oseli, 45' from where we live - see http://www.peteranne.it/album/Climbing/4.%20Bouldering/index.html - where there are some 50-odd problems up to Font 7b+ and we are collaborating with Maurizio Oviglia and Angelo Marratzu to document others. It is great for this time of year, and a really beautiful place. Zero minutes approach  Your only companions are the free-range pigs and cows. The gorge talked about on the thread is Gorroppu, a great place to walk to and to climb, not just Hotel Supramonte but some easier long routes as well, but I wouldn't go there just to boulder (1:30 walk in). See photos and descriptions of bouldering here also at www.pietradiluna.com and www.bloccobirra.com (both in Italian).

The Italian climbing magazine Pareti (www.pareti.it) has a nice article by Angelo in #68 about bouldering in Sardinia.

If people are interested in coming and developing the boulders in the Ogliastra area, or on info on them, please contact me at peter@peteranne.it. As well as running a guesthouse for climbers, walkers and cyclists (road and MTB) we do lots to develop tourism related to these activities in this area, and are always interested to collaborate with people who can contribute to this, including if they're not staying with us at The Lemon House www.peteranne.it

ciao Peter

[PeterH]

see http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11643.0.html
Peter

[Dolly]

Do any of those of you who have been know where the stuff is that's in the video posted before by Rman ?



Pasted here as the video has been moved to you tube

[Nibile]

sadly i haven't been in sardinia for bouldering, only for surfing, which could be another good option, should you get some NW winds. the stronger the better. localism.
the info posted here are absolutely correct, the only drawback will be the incredibly hot climate. be sure there's no fires warnings.
if you visit www.shardrock.com i think you could easily score climbing partners as well.

[Dolly]

Cheers for that Nibs - looks like a very local version of 8a.nu
Doesn't seem to much info on the bouldering (as far as my limited Italian can understand)

I've also mailed the main guy at http://www.bloccobirra.com/DOMO.HTML for help with locations etc

[ccurling]

Hi, I went out last easter to mostly the south of the island specifically for the bouldering. It was amazing, the whole time we were there we saw only 2 other boulders, but every area we went to the problems were easy to find. I used mostly the 'Pietra di Luna' guide, but I also found an online one, I'll see if I can dig out the link! I didn't find the granite too coarse in the south, it may be different up in the north of the island.. The main areas we went to were Geremeas not far from the capital of Cagliari.. Mari Pintau and Fungo Magico are both nice but small areas with problems up to about 7b, although the 7bs felt relatively soft. Torre delle Stelle is a fantastic area on a hill, you follow a dirt road counting telegraph poles to 2 areas, one at number 23 with some nice easy problems, then at number 44, some amazing roof problems and scary exposed boulders... we played around on a lot of the boulders in the south, but by far the nicest area we went to was Is Concias, you follow this mountain road to a scary looking tomb (again NO ONE AROUND) then pick up a small dirt path through the forrest down to a stream, cross the stream trek a bit further into the woods and you come to the funkiest looking granite boulders and roof's i've ever seen... really quiet with problems up to 7b. There are so many other areas to go to.. all dotted around. I'm planning on going back soon to see what the middle and north of the island has to offer...
I hope you have a great time...

[ccurling]

Do any of those of you who have been know where the stuff is that's in the video posted before by Rman ?

not sure about the 1st bit.. quite cryptic filming..
2nd boulder (super fox) is at Torre Delle Stelle in the south of the island
not sure about the 3rd..
4th (arco di pietra) also at Torre Delle Stelle, right next to the superfox problem.. really nice tricky 7a...
5h Acanza - is in Geremeas, area called fungo magico.. right next to the road and looks like a mushroom - i guess hence the name!
6th Gorilla Nella Nebbia - again at fungo magico, just on the other side of the boulder... both super nice..
7th Muriska - fungo magico again

Hope that helps...

[Dolly]

Cheers for that good into there.
Be great if you could find the link to the online topo please, but looks like I need to buy the guide anyway.
The aim is to stay in the South  - mainly a family beach holiday but good to know that there is some quality stuff nearby

[ccurling]

http://www.sardiniaclimb.com/NuovoscEng/newareas/geremeasboulder.html there is a much better one then this and the guide is quite detailed if u get it!

[Jeff25]

 there is a much better one then this and the guide is quite detailed if u get it!

[/quote]

Just looked through my guide on the shelf and theres quite comprhensive bouldering sections with access descriptions etc. Its not exactly Rockfax but pretty good and more than enough to go at.

Do you have the guide?

[Dolly]

Do you have the guide?

I haven't yet but I will.
Flights for October half term are so cheap ATM. For the 5 of us to fly from Luton its £128 including taxes etc !

[Sloper]

Can you pm me details of the flights etc as for that price I may be giving you duff beta or banter about how if it wasn't for Thatcher we'd all be speaking Russian

[Dolly]

Yep will do. Will have to be later as I don't have them at work.
Thatcher ? What's she ever done on grit ?

[Sloper]

Indirectly she was responsible for quite a few things.

[Blunk]

Watch the locals though:

The Greek bard Homer coined the term "sardonic grin" after ceremonial killings that supposedly took place in Sardinia, where Phoenician colonists gave to elderly people who could no longer take care of themselves and to criminals an intoxicating potion that put a smile on their face. (They were then dropped from a high rock or beaten to death.) Scientists at the University of Eastern Piedmont in Italy and their colleagues think they now have identified the herb responsible: hemlock water dropwort (Oenanthe crocata), which is common on Sardinia, where it is popularly known as "water celery." Their analysis revealed the presence of highly toxic chemicals in the plant that could make facial muscles contract into a grimace, or rictus. The finding appears in the May 22 Journal of Natural Products.

The bit about being dropped from a high rock seems pertinent.

From: http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=in-brief-aug-09

[dteney]

I'm gonna dig up this thread...

Does any of you know where to rent a crash pad near Cagliari ? (and maybe other equipment like climbing shoes?)

I happen to be in Cagliari for a few days for work, I wasn't planning to climb, but I just met a partner. We didn't bring equipment so we're quite limited. Still, I have my shoes with me, so a crash pad may be enough to go do some bouldering in Geremas.

Any tips are welcome, thanks in advance!

Damien

[Idol eyes]

Capo Testa...
Capo D Oro...
anything around the Costa Esmerelda.
Mid Island stuff... not that great!

[Sloper]

I think that's a bit off the money, there's a shit load of amazing looking blocks in the interio of the north east and clearly some local developments going on.

Big, solid grey granite blocks with amazing landings, shame the access looks shaky. google la valle de luna

[Idol eyes]

The texture is no as good as the coast, might look good, but from my experience, the coast produced the better venues for bouldering. The plateaus really can be missleading and I spent time on stuff that really looked the part, but did not feel great with regards to consistency and rock quality...
There are allways exceptions, and I did enjoy climbing on sand instead of goat shit!!!