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info on burbage s problem (Read 4345 times)

Andy Harris

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info on burbage s problem
April 06, 2009, 08:36:24 am
was out at burbabge south t'other day and came agross an excellent problem left of nosferatu. A steep twin arete hugging problem with a  slab topout. Really v. good. Felt about 7a+ ish. Anyone know any more?

dave

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#1 Re: info on burbage s problem
April 06, 2009, 09:05:12 am
is this the thing with one good hold on the left side?

Bonjoy

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#2 Re: info on burbage s problem
April 06, 2009, 10:12:54 am
Sounds like you might have found this http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11292.0.html , except for the bit about being next to Nosferatu, did you mean Pebble Mill?

Andy Harris

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#3 Re: info on burbage s problem
April 06, 2009, 10:59:11 am
that'll be the one. Excellent fridge hugging start.

There was a hold on the left face but seemed a bit odd to get to so we went direct through the slab on opposing sidepulls.

Obviously getting me nosferatus and me pebble mills confused. They're all too high with very little gear, dark rock, same crag, all look the same to me...

Bonjoy

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#4 Re: info on burbage s problem
April 06, 2009, 11:14:05 am
The way me and Nige did it was to get a big sloper on the lip with RH (crux), drop LH back down arete a bit, left heel on arete, flick LH to good hold on left and follow left arete (as per Broddle's Baby) to the top. It's really good this way and you stay over the nice landing. Andy B has done it both ways so will have a better idea how they compare in difficulty.

Andy Harris

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#5 Re: info on burbage s problem
April 06, 2009, 11:52:46 am
We definitely did it the direct way and it did feel a little unnerving. Was also a bit of a belly scraper which when your ribs are as knobbly as mine is not great. Unfortunately this way avoids the big sloper and you just use it as an intermediate. Would be good to get Andy’s opinion.

Andy B

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#6 Re: info on burbage s problem
April 06, 2009, 01:14:33 pm
For me the direct, or right hand way was definitely a bit easier, but I could see that grit balance types would prefer the left hand way. I think the left is more squeezy, foot finesse, balance and precision style and the right is more pull hard and lock style, with good flexibility helping. To avoid the belly scraping I used a high right heel on the lip down and right of the big jug sidepull, and stood up early using that, but Andy Jennings used a toe on the same hold and looked a lot more secure than I felt.

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#7 Re: info on burbage s problem
April 07, 2009, 03:01:44 pm
Andy

Met you down at Rubicon last Saturday am. You were telling me about a new 7c on Cioch block at burbage South. Where exactlly is it and any beta?

Simon

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#8 Re: info on burbage s problem
April 07, 2009, 03:04:01 pm
Andy

Met you down at Rubicon last Saturday am. You were telling me about a new 7c on Cioch block at burbage South. Where exactlly is it and any beta?

Simon


Are you referring to this?

corniceman

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#9 Re: info on burbage s problem
April 08, 2009, 09:29:19 am
Thanks. Looks awsome.

Andy Harris

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#10 Re: info on burbage s problem
April 08, 2009, 10:27:35 am
Simon, it is an excellent problem but I've been struggling on the last dyno. Roy did it at the wend and did the top move 2 ways. 1st a double dyno then a right hand catch which is different to the other ascentionists?

I know you're out on your own a lot and this is really a 3 pad + spotter problem. If you're about in the next couple of weeks send me a pm and I'm keen to meet out there.

dave

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#11 Re: info on burbage s problem
April 08, 2009, 10:31:53 am
shit i need to get on this too. anyone hitting this tonight after work?

Andy B

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#12 Re: info on burbage s problem
April 08, 2009, 09:59:28 pm
shit i need to get on this too. anyone hitting this tonight after work?

I bet you're glad we ended up on Hannibal instead!

dave

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#13 Re: info on burbage s problem
April 08, 2009, 10:12:49 pm
yeah well fucking psyched. quick barrel of tits anyone?

 

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