[Luke]

I've just figured out that I've had 6 in the past 2 and a half years. Surely this can't be normal. How often do you get finger injuries?

[tomtom]

I've just figured out that I've had 6 in the past 2 and a half years. Surely this can't be normal. How often do you get finger injuries?

Two last year.. both A2 pulleys, both healed up within 6-8 weeks...

[erm]

I have collateral ligament strains permanently (doctor says it'll go away if I stop climbing) in three of my fingers.

[stom]

I've just figured out that I've had 6 in the past 2 and a half years. Surely this can't be normal. How often do you get finger injuries?

  surely you must be doing something wrong?


3 in 4 years for me- all from being too heavy and training too much after having a 5 year break from climbing hard - I've dropped from 14stone to 12 1/4 over the last year and my fingers have really thanked me for it! Ive had one minor tweak in the last 12 month's this was purely from spending too much time on crimps in one training cycle, with careful management it was better in 3 weeks!

[mark_mcq]

I had 2 severe ones when I was about 16.. middle finger on both hands. Had to stop all climbing for a year as I couldnt even pick up a bottle of juice. Then when I was about 18 a slight tweak on one ring finger.. Since then they have been bomb proof. (Touch wood)..

[Scouse D]

I've injured every pulley in each hand over the last 16 years, as well as colateral strains a broken finger and a mallet finger. Just getting over A2 injuries in first finger of each hand. I reckon I average 2 serious finger injuries per year.

[dave]

I reckon I average 2 serious finger injuries per session.

[Adam Lincoln]

Two or three in 15 years. I have short fat fingers that are not prone to injury!

[philo]

2 in 2 years, a2 pulleys on both my middle fingers. one still has it!

[benj_d]

I've been climbing for just over a year now and had none. But I was wondering, what the best way to avoid injury is...

Obviously, there is warming up and down. Anything else?

Also are there more factors to make you more prone to injury? i.e I am 17, about 5ft10 and weigh 9 and a half stone. Does being quite light in weight, make me less prone to injury?

[dave]

I think there's a few things can make you less injury prone. obviously being lighter is better. also building up your strength over a long period (it seems that people who get really strong really fast also get injured more). warming up well also helps, making sure you're not tired or stressed, drinking plenty of water etc etc. I doubt smoking or drugs will do you any favours injury-wise. I've been climbing 11 years and have never had what I would call a proper finger injury, (granted have had a couple of minor tweeks, which were generally fine the next session). some people are just more injury prone than others though.

[andymarshll]

7 in the past 3 years, mostly A2s.

[slackline]

I've injured every pulley in each hand over the last 16 years, as well as colateral strains a broken finger and a mallet finger. Just getting over A2 injuries in first finger of each hand. I reckon I average 2 serious finger injuries per year.

Does that include pulling so hard the blood bursts out of your finger tips and trickles down your arms?

[SA Chris]

I also think the key to not getting serious finger injuries is climbing using the best possible technique - only pulling hard on fingers where necessary, being in control, use good footwork etc. Learn to vary grip, ie don't close hand crimp everything. And also note any niggles, tweaks, etc and adpress them before they get worse. Almost every major finger injury I have had has warning signs that it is going to happen, which I have duly ignored. And I don't think I have ever injured a finger climbing outdoors.

[dave]

I also think the key to not getting serious finger injuries is climbing using the best possible technique - only pulling hard on fingers where necessary, being in control, use good footwork etc. Learn to vary grip, ie don't close hand crimp everything.

you've clearly never climbed with me.

[Rocksteady]

I've had mild A2 in the ring finger of my right hand, A2 in middle finger of left, and I've currently got what I think are A5 injuries in the ring and middle fingers of my left hand. All in 3 years out of the 4 I've been climbing regularly. All injured indoors. All had warning signs which I ignored. And I still only climb F6c+! Daaaaaaamn! 

[SA Chris]

I also think the key to not getting serious finger injuries is climbing using the best possible technique - only pulling hard on fingers where necessary, being in control, use good footwork etc. Learn to vary grip, ie don't close hand crimp everything.

you've clearly never climbed with me.

Do you do all of the above? Tut tut. When I moved from SA to Leeds I really struggled with having to deal with anything other than dirty wee crimps and pinches. Still do.

[iain]

3 last year, despite me being 'more careful'. First one too much fingerboarding (first time I'd done it properly), second to quickly back after recovering from first, third I have no idea how I did, new type of injury for me, a strained pip joint. I recovered quickly from the first 2 because after years I think I've got a good idea when to acknowledge there's a problem and start dealing with it, rather than just having a niggle. Still struggling with the last.
I average 2 a year so far.

I have done 7 of 8 A2 pulleys, several A3's and generally struggle to not injure myself if I'm training hard. I open hand a lot now but still get pulley injuries, Sheesh

There are lots of things that help reduce the likelihood of injuried like variety of types of training and not training intensively for extended perioids, making sure you're properly hydrated well in advance of a serious session, not pushing when tired etc, but despite what some people have written I think there are some people who have a greater tendency to get injured than others.
But given I supposedly 'know' all that I still get injured so I probably just don't know what I'm doing.

As for Mark_McQ above, Sam and I think agree that you're a genetic freak to get injured so little, especially with the way you train

And yes, I am jealous 

[Twiglett]

I seem to collect the bloody things.

I would say I get about 3 or 4 a year 

[route149]

I would say I get about 3 or 4 a year 

Unlucky.  I did A2s in left hand  3,4, quite a few years back.  Only the once, though.  There's always a danger of trying to catch up after rehab (I don't mean Amy Winehouse type) and blowing the things again. Take it slowly and you will get stronger, even if this seems counter-intuitive. 

[magpie]

I've had 3 (all A2 from what I can gather) in the last year or so, all my left hand, this is mainly down to me being unable to understand that my tiny weak fingers cannot support and pull up my entire bodyweight unless they are used at least 4 at a time.  Mono pockets are not my friends.  ???

[Fiend]

I also think the key to getting weak is climbing using the best possible technique - only pulling hard on fingers where necessary, being in control, use good footwork etc. Learn to vary grip, ie don't close hand crimp everything.

 

1 in 12 years, A2 on middle finger on left hand. Sort of healed within a couple of months, but recurred for bits of the next year. Taping helped a lot as did general dilligence.