[Pantontino]

Have to agree with yer man Carlisle Slapper, when people make the effort to explore new ground, however difficult, frustrating and time consuming that may be, it gives the whole scene a boost of psyche. Bransby's recent ascent of that incredible arete at Rylstone is exactly the sort of thing we need more of. Folk just need to get out there and get stuck into those wild improbable lines (and that often means a lot more than a cursary look - for example, Katz told me he had previously dismissed Lanny Bassham as impossible).

Was watching this:



the other night, and I thought the second half of the film when they focus on the new routing process was fascinating. Andrada makes the point that if the next generation doesn't pick up the drill and make some creative moves (we are talking sport routes here in this case) then the climbing scene will quickly lose all sense of excitement and progression. It's all very well running around repeating other people's problems/routes: it's great fun and an essential part of the consensus process, but in the end it is just consuming really, and the hotshots need to make their mark in the history books too with some signature first ascents. Just ask Jerry, he knew the score on this front didn't he.

[Jaspersharpe]

It's all very well running around repeating other people's problems/routes (great fun and an essential part of the consensus process, but in the end it is just consuming really), but the hotshots need to make their mark too. Just ask Jerry, he knew the score on this front didn't he.

And as Dan says, there are plenty of strong, psyched beasts out there doing just that. It's all good.

[Christobal]

Am i blind or is it possible that no one mentioned Careless Torque in this thread?

[GCW]

Am i blind or is it possible that no one mentioned Careless Torque in this thread?

Ferret was interested in 8b and above, hence the omission.

[Stubbs]

Andrada makes the point that if the next generation doesn't pick up the drill and make some creative moves (we are talking sport routes here in this case) then the climbing scene will quickly lose all sense of excitement and progression. It's all very well running around repeating other people's problems/routes: it's great fun and an essential part of the consensus process, but in the end it is just consuming really, and the hotshots need to make their mark in the history books too with some signature first ascents.

Dave Graham made a similar point in his lecture - he said that in Colorado there was a ton of climbers strong enough to be putting up font 8B and above problems, and he'd even shown them projects, but they were more bothered about putting time into repeating hard esablished problems, rather than putting time into something that may nto turn out to be that hard and that the actual amount of guys doing first ascents there was relatively small, even with the huge potential of the area.

[Christobal]

Yeah OK. My mistake.

[Stubbs]

To add something in line with the original question there's the project at Caley in between Secret 7th and Ben's Groove, this is probably the most obvious hard project in Yorkshire and it appears to meet all of your criteria.

[Pantontino]

Andrada makes the point that if the next generation doesn't pick up the drill and make some creative moves (we are talking sport routes here in this case) then the climbing scene will quickly lose all sense of excitement and progression. It's all very well running around repeating other people's problems/routes: it's great fun and an essential part of the consensus process, but in the end it is just consuming really, and the hotshots need to make their mark in the history books too with some signature first ascents.

Dave Graham made a similar point in his lecture - he said that in Colorado there was a ton of climbers strong enough to be putting up font 8B and above problems, and he'd even shown them projects, but they were more bothered about putting time into repeating hard esablished problems, rather than putting time into something that may nto turn out to be that hard and that the actual amount of guys doing first ascents there was relatively small, even with the huge potential of the area.

And the history books will always give the most credit to the creative climbers. Just do repeats and you will soon be forgotten. Do the first ascent of a big line and you will be remembered forever.

[Johnny Brown]

The thing with opening hard new lines is it requires real vision. This is a highly underrated quality in what makes a great climber, I've met plenty of brilliant climbers severely lacking in this respect, and some so-so ones with incredible vision. (tip: follow these guys about, and steal their projects).

Training is getting to a point where there is enough info and plenty of facilities to churn out very capable climbers, but it is all about consumption. It seems a good trend that walls are leaving areas for folk to make there own problems; when it comes to rock though, really learning to reading it is a real gift, and one that can only be gained through lots of time outside.

[Huffy]

There's plenty others, but I'll probably get shot for mentioning them in public

Sitter to main vein (caseg boulder) - either dyno with right to starting hold or, if try wild right heel hook. Could never hold the starting hold. would be 8b.

Harder still sit start of caseg groove into main vein - great moves. prob 8b+

Someone please do one of these for me.

[Pantontino]

There's plenty others, but I'll probably get shot for mentioning them in public

Sitter to main vein (caseg boulder) - either dyno with right to starting hold or, if try wild right heel hook. Could never hold the starting hold. would be 8b.

Harder still sit start of caseg groove into main vein - great moves. prob 8b+

Someone please do one of these for me.

Main Vein sitter is one of the ones I was purposefully not mentioning, but now that you have: I know someone (and so do you) who is very close to doing it (he's got a different sequence to the ones you mention). Stunning problem and a surprising amount of climbing before you reach the stand up.

[Bonjoy]

As others have said in a round about way, the world is massive and the UK is tiny. Considering this fact I think the UK does very well indeed. The number of hard things of quality is respectable, the diversity of climbing is unmatched in any area of the same size anywhere on earth. I can't see much room to beef personally. Anyone wanting the-moon-on-a-stick should think about buying a short length of wood, a pot of glue and a space rocket.
With having a vast amount of rock most of which doesn't lend itself to >8b lines it takes a lot of searching haystacks to find the needles, but they're out there, hidden in full view as often as not.

[Pantontino]

With having a vast amount of rock most of which doesn't lend itself to >8b lines it takes a lot of searching haystacks to find the needles, but they're out there, hidden in full view as often as not.

Indeed, I can think of one slap bang in the middle of the Plantation.

[TomP]

Is that the crack next to the Joker/Ace? Remember that looking hard but possible. Has it been done?

[Pantontino]

Is that the crack next to the Joker/Ace? Remember that looking hard but possible. Has it been done?

No, but it is a line that Jerry tried.

[dave]

if you don't tell us, it won't get done.

[TomP]

The crack line looked amazing from what I can remeber. Not many holds near the top.
So there is another?

[Paul B]

The crack has a nasty landing, I reckon the fall from the top will be joker esque and there are a lot more blocks to land on/fall off.

[TomP]

Would make it even more impressive if it gets done!

[richdraws]

The low start to Careless Torque, looked possible for the long of limb.

[dave]

Is that the crack next to the Joker/Ace? Remember that looking hard but possible. Has it been done?

No, but it is a line that Jerry tried.

this isn't your thing about the line of crumbly flakes between careless and NTBTA again is it?

[cofe]

big air direct?

[TomP]

big air direct?

Yeah heard of folk trying that before. Looks pretty blank

[cofe]

someone should climb it and call it Skegness, cos there's nothing there.

[dave]

maybe its the sitter to crescent arete? unless percy has already done it.