[hongkongstuey]

Can you speak any Japanese?

Don't be daft i'm British! - to be honest, i;'ve lived in HK for best part of three years and not progressed passed the directing taxi's and ordering a pint stage with Cantonese so my chances with Japanese are fairly minimal - i think the main problem out there is that theres no sign in English - makes normally simple things like navigating the underground a major expedition aparently.

Scanned in a few bouldering shots of Oz yesterday - will send you a link to them when i get them uploaded

[Bubba]

Yeah, that's what I'd heard - apparantly it can be quite disconcerting in Japan - you're lost, you can't read any signs, you can't read the street map,  Nightmare!

And we have news that Sharma has repeated Dreamtime!

It'll be a measly 8b+ soon - anyway, it is just a stamina problem  

As http://8a.nu rightly point out, this puts Graham and Sharma at the top of the scale of those who boulder and route-climb to the very highest levels.

[Bubba]

Apparantly Klem LockStock has finally done a project of his that has taken him four years. It's safe to say that it's probably a bit tricky.

Although Klem doesn't grade stuff anymore, "it is rumoured to be between 8b+ and 8c" according to 8a.nu....which means it's rumoured to be 8b++ ?

Go on Klem, give it 8c!

[dave]

Do you know if its one of those that were pictured in that OTE article about him a while back? Some of them looked "rad", "ill", and indeed "sick".

[Bubba]

No idea if it's the same, although I do have a hazy recollection of that article.

Checking http://8a.nu again today reveals that a man like Bernd Zangerl has done yet another 8C at "Magic Wood" (no, not that one!!) in Switzerland.

This makes him the only person to have done 3 8C's and probably makes him top boy unless there's any publicity-shy bouldering gurus out there who are silently cranking out 9b's in solitude somewhere.

[dave]

Jesus wept! :crying:

Its getting silly now. There really are some strong mofos out there.

 I like where he says:

"because my new boulderproblem has only 11 moves and is quite different."

ONLY 11 moves! Thats longer than most walk-ins I do.

[Bubba]

Yeah, it just means that they're Stamina problems really. Bet the moves are really easy  :wink:

Maybe it'll go like this for a while....most 8Cs will link more hard moves, but the individual moves won't get any harder. It's easier to make improvements in stamina than power I guess. I think someone else has said this on there before, but maybe the real jump in standards will be when we're getting 3 move 8Cs.

[dave]

With that kind of power-stamina some of these guys ought to rope-up now and again - surely with hard8c under your belt you'd stand a fighting change of putting up F9a+/F9b routes - and i'm sure the rock for that kinda shiz exists in Europe by the bucketfull.

[Bubba]

That's what Sharma and Graham are doing at the moment I suppose, applying bouldering skillz to routes, et vica versa.....Not sure if Zangerl does routes at all though.

[dave]

This is slightly related to this thread:

Yesterday i was idly thumbing through the latest OTE in Smiths, having a quick scan of Jezzer's SA article. I didn't really read it, but spotted a bit where he was on about the grades there. He said the grades in SA seemed to be quite soft, and he reconed the 8b FA he'd done would only be 8a+ in the UK. So I was thinking does that mean Big Fred's 8c Black Eagle (sit down start) is really a measly 8b+? Just a thought.......

[hongkongstuey]

having a quick scan of Jezzer's SA article. I didn't really read it

good call as its probably the worst article i've read for a long time as far as the text is concerned - Jerry should just stick to climbing!

[Bubba]

Not like the Moffat to downplay his grades, is it ?

Maybe he's getting all modest in his old age  

[dave]

I can just see him now, coming out of TJ Huges in some beige slip-ons, trousers up to his armpits, rolled-up Daily Star in the side pocket of a sagging tweed sports jacket, woodbines in top pocket, one of those vinyl tartan trolleys full of stale bread for the pigeons and some tripe for his tea, gurning at passers by.

[Bubba]

ha ha ha!!! That's very funny indeed Dave  :D

(I would say LOL but then I'd have to kill myself)

[dave]

Or even worse, ROTFLMOA

Double Death  

[Doylo]

I've envisaged a possible font 8c link up in Parissellas Cave but Dave Grahams gonna have to move to Llandudno for it to get done!

[Pantontino]

Chris, would that be Lou Ferrino into Trigger Cut? Rock Attrocity into TC, The Big Link into TC or Crucial Times into Trigger Cut?
Or how about somebody just finishing the natural extension to Lou Ferrino to the cave lip?

Any one of these connections would warrant a very big number.

PS I have used a picture of you on Fast Cars for some advertising posters for the new guide. You should get yourself an agent. Because of the late arrival of the baby I didn't go to Kendal, and Mark Katz stepped in and covered for me. He took up a batch of glossy posters, which hopefully have been prominently displayed.

[Doylo]

Right check this out for hard Simon: Left wall traverese into starting jug of RA (V10?) into Sams project (v11) into Trigger Cut from the Ramp (V13?).  Makes the Big Link look like a piece of piss! Roadrunner is good but the Cave is where the really hard link ups lie!

Cheers for the publicity, always welcome, look forward to seeing myself plastered around Sheffield!

Chris

[Doylo]

You could be right about getting an agent. Check out the belayer on the front cover of the December issue of High when it comes out!

[Bubba]

This 8c mularky is becoming easy - today there's news of yet another one, but this time it's an upgrade from 8b+ and not a new problem.

The problem is "Gossip", by Markus Bock.

[Bubba]

At last, some info on Banshousha

See here for a rather iffy translation of the page showing the location of the only 8c in Asia.

[dave]

If anyone can be bothered to read all that and summarize it into the Queen's english i'd much appreciate it.

[Bubba]

Guess we don't have many who are fluent in japanese reading this board - the original link is: http://www.bouldering.net/japan/closeup/5dan/5dan.html

[mozzer]

I cant understand much of that - happy just to look at the piccie. Looks about font 5+ to me.

[Bubba]

You're probably right, Font 5+ could be anything from 3+ to 8c.