[Big Frank]

Having now done a couple of videos for yorkshiregrit.com, which Jon has edited & put on the site I've got a thinking about videos generaly and their worth / ethic as beta.

Do people in general just view them for pleasure (whilst bored at work) or do people watch them for beta and then target the problem for the tick.

[dave]

I watch vids for beta - and i'm man enough to admit it. The way i see it its just an extension of what climbers have done for years, i.e. chatting about climbing in pubs, at the crag etc.

However i don't think yorkshiregrit vids are all that usefull for beta as most of them just show punters falling off problems.

 :wink:

[Big Frank]

I learnt all I know from this site;

http://www.beardown.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/home.html

Quality videos, so much time and effort

[dave]

my videos have a 100% sucess rate for the climber getting to the top of the problem, and a 0% punter rate, and a 100% sucess rate for proper bo music.

...and not to mention 100% of the editing is slicker than your average.

[Big Frank]

my videos have a 100% sucess rate for the climber getting to the top of the problem.

1 out of 1 aint bad I must admit :worthy:

Shall we leave it there, I dont want a CT type crock of shite pointless argument.

[dave]

that doesn't sound like the FH we all know. :wink:

[Big Frank]

that doesn't sound like the FH we all know. :wink:

To be honest I'm to busy and have lost interest in RT. On this site you get much more the real me and not the arse.

Now everyone what about Video beta.........good or bad?

[Bubba]

It's fine so long as you're not fooling yourself or anyone else into thinking you got the flash or are some master technician for working that sequence out.

For me, I like to work things out myself or with my mates but if I saw a video available of some project I was working I'd probably check it out to see if it was worth me trying that method next time.

If the flash was important to me then I'd just not watch it.

[Jim]

I mainly watch them for enjoyment but if I've been working a problem and get stuck and I know of a video somewhere with the problem on I will watch this to get some beta eg watched jon on start of fight on black but didn't help cos I used a completely different sequence!
Videos are also good to get an idea of somewhere you've never been before.

[mark]

Best: On sight flash the problem in a blur of power, technical wizardry and knee bars.

2nd best: Style the problem after working out a sequence all on your own.

3rd best: Sketch up something after getting all the beta you can from everyone/everywhere available. And usually I'm better off watching vids of others than taking sequnce advice from the technical buffoons I usually climb with. Yes, that's you I'm talking about Dolly.

[dobbin]

...and not to mention 100% of the editing is slicker than your average.

Urrrh! you quoted Craig David! you sicko!

Love climbing vids cos they get me psyched, to be honest though if I get the gist of how to do something from a video for the most part I will have completely forgotten by the time I get to t'rocks.

Plus, there are so many subtleties to each move, nuances of foot position etc, etc that unless the problem's easy then its still gonna be a learning experience when you pull on. Agreed that the best style is to onsight though I'm not so sure about knee bars!

[dave]

Urrrh! you quoted Craig David! you sicko!

can you fill me in?

[hongkongstuey]

most of them just show punters falling off problems

i must confess to having just edited one of these type of vids myself - however, the problem in question has never been sent by anyone full stop so i kinda excuse myself on that point

http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/Gallery/videos/project.htm

was shot last weekend and the temp has plummeted a good 7 or 8 degrees since then so its going down this week (i hope)

[Jim]

That link doesn't work

[hongkongstuey]

That link doesn't work

spooky - i uploaded it earlier, checked the link worked (which it did) but just checked my files and its vanished - bizarre

in the process of reloading it as we speak

[hongkongstuey]

working again now

[hongkongstuey]

http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/Gallery/videos/project.htm

was shot last weekend and the temp has plummeted a good 7 or 8 degrees since then so its going down this week (i hope)

and it did to give HK its first V9 - not by me though.......

it got called So High, which bears a striking resemblence to the cantonese Soh Hai - which is somewhat rude and won't make you any friends if you call them it!

[hongkongstuey]

to give HK its first V9

[AndyR]

to give HK its first V9

Looks like a great problem.

[hongkongstuey]

its proper hard - the starting left hand hold is sooo small and painful to crimp

my best effort is to get within 5" of the hold! half the time i can only just hold myself in place, let alone jump anywhere!

AndyR / yorkshiregrit - if you watch the first of the two vids - linked higher up, you can even see Sparky loitering in the background displaying his fantastic spotting skills once again

[AndyR]

AndyR / yorkshiregrit - if you watch the first of the two vids - linked higher up, you can even see Sparky loitering in the background displaying his fantastic spotting skills once again

Ah yes, leaning against the rock taking the piss no doubt.  Was he also hinting that he'd be able to do it no problem, if only for tweaked finger / feet wrong size / light too flat* (delete as appropriate)??

P - have you got a link to that video of excellent spotting that Sparky demonstrated in Font??

[Big Frank]

P - have you got a link to that video of excellent spotting that Sparky demonstrated in Font??

Dont know Sparky but I'v seen the video, ealing comedy!

[jonP]

Don't think the spotting video is on the site at the moment.  I'll upload it tonight.  It's much more entertaining than the usual tedious crap on the site.

[jonP]

The classic spotting movie:



Two minutes later, the revenge:



No spotting, but an amusing lack of style:



The Great Spotter styling a classic Font problem:

[Big Frank]

Classic!

If only youd of had your video camera last Saturday........the dry stone wall and the forward half roll with pyke!

[Bubba]

No spotting, but an amusing lack of style:

Nothing wrong with getting a knee in there in times of desperation  :D

What's that problem? Looks fantastic.

[dave]

Is you are climbing with me then youd be lucky to get a spot as good as the first 2 vids!

No spotting, but an amusing lack of style:

i always thought this one started from both hands on the flake. i never tried it for the reason that i knew i would end up jump starting it whcih would probably be frowned upon cos it must miss one of the hardest moves.

[dobbin]

I love the classic spotting video - most amusing. Sure you could tickle Lisa Riley's not inconsiderable underbelly with that one to the tune of £250 too...

[jonP]

i always thought this one started from both hands on the flake

Well, now you know better.

[Ru]

Quote:
i always thought this one started from both hands on the flake

Well, now you know better.

I wondered why this felt so hard for 6c.

[Dolly]

3rd best: Sketch up something after getting all the beta you can from everyone/everywhere available. And usually I'm better off watching vids of others than taking sequnce advice from the technical buffoons I usually climb with. Yes, that's you I'm talking about Dolly.

Only just got round to reading this
That only cos you're not strong enough to follow a proper (ie Bentley approved) sequence.
Technique is for weak boys anyway

[jonP]

I wondered why this felt so hard for 6c or whatever. It's actually really quite hard starting on the flake. Doh.

http://bleau.info/isatis/1544.html

6c from standing, 7a+ from sitting.  Great problem either way.

[dave]

so from standing then its basically nothing like Karma!