[benpritch]

amazing new prob - 3 stars, bonjoy found this, we both managed not to climb it but this guy did it with a totally wild manoeuver at the top. somewhere in the 7b - 7c area on the font scale.

starts just right of captain invincible and finishes at the obvious ledge.

[Johnny Brown]

Looks well brown.

Trapped by a crow's craw?

[cofe]

that's the spit of burning lark sunset!

climber is banksy (andy b). note the socks and spray on jeans. looks hard.

nice pic pritch.

[benpritch]

managed to do this today in a hurricane.

seems like wild manouever at the top might be easiest sequence.

I really think this might be a total all time classic problem?

what's it called andy?

[Andy B]

Well done Ben. You deserved to tick it, after getting so close on Thursday. I'm glad you used the manouever too.

I think the name is The Leotard Legend (apparently another name for Captain Invincible).

somewhere in the 7b - 7c area on the font scale.

I suspect that this wouldn't be 7b on any scale except the Bransby scale.

[dave]

hopefully this problem will spark up some interest in the groove continuation route, assuming there's any grips on it. would be monster if it goes.

[Andy B]

I reckon the big blank capping roof will scupper that for a while to come. Bonjoy abbed the line so he might know if there are any hidden holds up there.

[andyh]

pretty sure i remember jd saying he'd done all the moves on it at english 7a, but there may have been one move he couldn't do, twas a long time ago

[dave]

pretty sure i remember jd saying he'd done all the moves on it at english 7a,

didn't he used to say that about everything though?

[nik at work]

Depends which JD he means.

Oh no wait a minute, it doesn't....

[Andy Harris]

roy and I were trying this today and to be honest we were baffled. I'd been led to believe the 1st move was the crux but this went down OK. From the good hold Andy has with his left it seemed utterly improbable and we could not fathom a sequence.

it looked like a hold had recently snapped up and right of this which would have been in perfect position to lob to the top. we also tried matching the good hold, into the mono (LH) and going again with the LH to a high sloper but this seemed impossible too.

any help?

[benpritch]

good side pull right
two finger pocket left
up to good hold with left
cross to pinch above left hand
mono with left
bump right down to good hold
left outside edge on yellow edge smear
left hand up to high guppy/gaston sloper on continuation rib 12 inches from ledge
go again in quite a wild fashion for the ledge

heres a pic of me with the hold you go again from but wrong footed



not sure i would have tried it this way if i hadn't seen andy B do it by the way...excellent skills andy.

[Bonjoy]

Aye, a brilliant problem I reckon. I've been away from the peak for a week or so but mad keen to get back on it. Props to the Banks for doing the biz. I'd guess at solid 7c but I haven't done it yet. Certainly seems quite a bit harder then nearby Zorev (7c), to me anyway. Did I mention it was brilliant, cos it is. Best new prob on peak grit for a while I'd say.

[Bonjoy]

roy and I were trying this today and to be honest we were baffled. I'd been led to believe the 1st move was the crux but this went down OK. From the good hold Andy has with his left it seemed utterly improbable and we could not fathom a sequence.

it looked like a hold had recently snapped up and right of this which would have been in perfect position to lob to the top. we also tried matching the good hold, into the mono (LH) and going again with the LH to a high sloper but this seemed impossible too.

any help?

That'll be my fault. I spent ages not doing the first move, mostly trying it the wrong way. I assumed at the time that the top would be comparatively easy. In the end the first move turned out to be ok once figured out and the top pretty hard after I snapped off a good pebble/crimp on the right. The prob would probably be easier but not as good had the hold not snapped.

[Andy Harris]

must say that didn't cross our minds. some cowardice as we only had 2 pads and were trying to lock up with feet in the break. that's quite a big move and then you go again! think i'd be going through with the RH.

really is an excellent problem and felt 7c for sure. infact we'd just done zorev 10mins earlier and this is certainly a notch up.

[jonjon]

Had a session on this, got stuck not realising you had to bump the right hand down. Looks 7b...climbs 7c

[Andy B]

roy and I were trying this today and to be honest we were baffled. I'd been led to believe the 1st move was the crux but this went down OK. From the good hold Andy has with his left it seemed utterly improbable and we could not fathom a sequence.

Sorry Andy. I tried calling you back, but it went straight to answer phone. I left a message about the top bit, but I presume you weren't in signal again until later.

[grimer]

Keen readers of the Burbage guide will notice this problem is mentioned as an unclimbed project. Can I retro-claim the finding thereof?

[BenF]

Can I retro-claim the finding thereof?

Any witnesses?  Did anyone see you type that?

[monkey boy]

Sit start to snatch went down on Friday in the hot, hot sun! Snatched is the original name!

[benpritch]

Sit start to snatch went down on Friday in the hot, hot sun! Snatched is the original name!

you mean this was done already?

[Adam Lincoln]

Sit start to snatch went down on Friday in the hot, hot sun! Snatched is the original name!

Nice, any video? Curious to see this climbed...

[monkey boy]

Sit start to snatch went down on Friday in the hot, hot sun! Snatched is the original name!

Nice, any video? Curious to see this climbed...

Am curious too! Not sure on the video front, just saw it on 8a!! Good job on broken heart by the way. cranking at the mo!

[Bonjoy]

Sit start to snatch went down on Friday in the hot, hot sun! Snatched is the original name!

Does this actually add any more moves to said one move problem, or just make the one move a bit harder? Specialist!

[account_inactive]

Think this deserves it's own thread. Justed checked 8a.nu and the F.A was not Dave...........

[Paul B]

Sit start to snatch went down on Friday in the hot, hot sun! Snatched is the original name!

Does this actually add any more moves to said one move problem, or just make the one move a bit harder? Specialist!

From what Scott told me it starts of an undercut underneath the roof and a ripple for your other hand, so it will add moves.

[dobbin]

There wont be a video lads, come on - dont be daft. Scott's a vampire and doesnt appear in mirrors or on films.

8a+ on non existant grips on a south facing block in the sun? waddage! I presume noone either saw or filmed the ascent?

[monkey boy]

People were there i think so there are some witnesses out there. Come out, come out wherever you are!

Think this deserves it's own thread. Justed checked 8a.nu and the F.A was not Dave...........

I am flattered you think i could pull on those dirty holds!!

[dobbin]

People were there i think so there are some witnesses out there. Come out, come out wherever you are!

Thats awesome news! it would be really nice for Scott (and us all) if just one person stood up and said they saw with their own eyes him being as good as he is reported to be. Credit where credit's due and all that.

[r-man]

I saw him climb a slopey 8a in the sun in Albarracin. Was quite impressive. He did a bunch of other hard things whilst we were there, and did ask me to come and try them with him, but I was too excited by all the new rock to siege anything, so he went off on his own and did them. I saw him working stuff occasionally, and he's certainly very strong. Very good at snatching for poor holds.

[dobbin]

Hooray! nice one r-man, I like what you did with your finishing sentence...

[monkey boy]

I saw him climb a slopey 8a in the sun in Albarracin. Was quite impressive. He did a bunch of other hard things whilst we were there, and did ask me to come and try them with him, but I was too excited by all the new rock to siege anything, so he went off on his own and did them. I saw him working stuff occasionally, and he's certainly very strong. Very good at snatching for poor holds.

Aye that is good news!! Snatching is certainly what looks to be required on snatch (no shit) and hooligan and even the ace i suppose!

[a dense loner]

my core gets a continual workout reading of these exploits. had a look at this problem today and looks quite do-able at around the grade. it was about 5 degrees cooler than friday so no chance of doing it today

[Jaspersharpe]

Maybe monkey boy posted in the wrong thread.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6416.0.html

 

I saw him climb a slopey 8a in the sun in Albarracin. Was quite impressive. He did a bunch of other hard things whilst we were there, and did ask me to come and try them with him, but I was too excited by all the new rock to siege anything, so he went off on his own and did them. I saw him working stuff occasionally, and he's certainly very strong. Very good at snatching for poor holds.

Ah that's all sorted then, fine.

[Jim]

Whats going on here, I've been informed that this is one of the best new things to go up in the peak for a while and now its turned into a conversation about a possibly fictional ascent of a even lower start to a crap lowball problem

[monkey boy]

Whats going on here, I've been informed that this is one of the best new things to go up in the peak for a while and now its turned into a conversation about a possibly fictional ascent of a even lower start to a crap lowball problem

Apologies i thought this thread was for new problems in general and not just the one at burbage south.

It does look sweet am psyched to go try it nice one banksy!

[Jim]

from today

[nik at work]

Could you not have stood a bit further away Jim?

[a dense loner]

is this andy's problem? confused with the leotard legend heading. must be good if it makes el mocho dyno

[benpritch]

is this andy's problem? confused with the leotard legend heading. must be good if it makes el mocho dyno

yes

[fatboySlimfast]

Have you got a a pathe news filter on that camera Jim, looks like one of those super 8 films from the 50's

[Jim]

its only my phone camera I'm afraid so the quality is lacking some what